Samosir Island: Jewel in the Heart of Lake Toba

By Chin Liang Teh
GoNOMAD Senior Writer

74,000 years ago, the Toba supervolcano in northern Sumatra, Indonesia, roared awake in the most violent eruption. This cataclysmic event not only plunged the Earth into a volcanic winter but also carved out a colossal crater, 62 miles long and more than 1,600 feet deep.

Nature took its course in the crater; a body of water was formed, and lava domes rose like silent giants, gradually coalescing into Samosir, an island almost the size of Singapore.

The World’s Largest Crater Lake

My ferry silently sailed over the world’s largest crater lake, Lake Toba, onto Samosir Island under a canopy of stars.

The surrounding mountains loomed as dark silhouettes against the night sky. The only sound was the soft lapping of ripples against the hull.

It was surreal to set foot on a land shaped by volcanic fire. The cool night air carried a hint of damp earth. The hum and buzz of insects, along with the chirping of birds, orchestrated a symphony on the island dimly lit by sparse streetlights. 

When morning came, the island unfolded its charm in full splendor—the bobbing duckweed danced in undulating green waves, sunlight sparkling on the lake water. Pine and coconut palms, trees from different climates, somehow stood side by side, their fronds slapping against each other.

Samosir Island in the Middle of Lake Toba

Tourists usually stay in three villages: Tuk Tuk, Ambarita, and Tomok. Tuk Tuk is a popular tourist area; Ambarita is a quieter neighborhood famous for its traditional Batak architecture; and Tomok is known for its lively local market. 

I stayed at Sibayak Guest House in Tuk Tuk. My room was on the second floor, with a door opening onto a terrace that overlooked the lake. Every morning, I woke up to the sounds of jet skis slicing through the water, the giggles and squeals of people taking a morning dip in the lake, and the deep rumble of the ferry horn announcing its arrival at the pier in front of the guesthouse.

The guesthouse owner suggested “Lontong” for breakfast. Lontong is a traditional Indonesian compressed rice cake wrapped in a banana leaf and boiled until fully cooked. After breakfast, I took a stroll to the local wet market in Tomok. Local women, wrapped in loose headscarves, gutted the fish and simultaneously called out to people to buy their catch.

Avocados, mangoes, and bananas were common at the market. The island’s subtropical climate and fertile, well-drained volcanic soil, rich in nutrients, are perfect for growing premium avocados.

An Escape from the Hubbub of Indonesia

Most tourists get around by renting a scooter. But the scenic trails along the lake are perfect for walking too. I took a walk from Tuk Tuk to Ambarita, a 3-mile stretch, stared at by many curious locals. A brief hello quickly turned into a friendly conversation. A family invited me in for a cup of tea, and another took pride in showing me their farm. 

A woman in a straw hat was raking rice grains under the sun. When I asked her if she sells the rice for a living, she broke into a smile and said, “No, it’s for our own consumption.” Sustainability is essential to this island lifestyle—from farm to table.

Friendly and Curious Locals

On the porch of a house, an old man and his grandson were scraping kernels from dried corn cobs. I walked up to the man and asked in Malay, a language close to Indonesian, pointing to the piles of corn kernels. 

He smiled knowingly. “This will be processed into powder,” he explained,  making a grinding motion with his hands. My question about seeing people drying corn cobs was answered: corn flour production is a source of income for the village. This also explains the abundance of cornfields throughout the island.

I arrived in Huta Siallagan, a traditional settlement of the Batak people in Samosir. Surrounding the village are ancient stone walls, once used for defense. The village is now an open museum of Batak culture and heritage.

The roof of a traditional Batak is in the shape of an overturned boat. The curved design helps air flow and rainwater drain in the tropical climate. A large, flat stone called Batu Parsidangan sits prominently in the middle, as the tour guide explained it once served as a meeting place for villagers to settle disputes and uphold justice. 

Cannibalism on the Island

Historical accounts hint at ritual cannibalism among the Batak people. With animated gestures and a playful demeanor, a tour guide held aloft a prop sword, describing the final moments of the criminals before their beheading—a reenactment of the gruesome ancient execution.

The tour members’ eyes widened in horror when the guide further described how the hearts of criminals were extracted and blood consumed by the ruling elite, believed to strengthen their power and immunity.

Visitors can rent traditional Batak attire for photography. ‘Ulos’, an intricate woven fabric with striped patterns, is draped over the shoulder. Men wear a rectangular head covering, while women wear a smaller head cloth.

The gong music signaled the start of the dance session. The museum staff gathered the visitors and guided them through a simple choreography, mostly involving hand movements and a gentle sway in a circle to the traditional music.

Hire a Local to be Your Guide

A local man on a motorcycle flagged me down and offered me a ride. Knowing I was a tourist, he suggested a full-day sightseeing tour for 280,000 Rupiah ($16), an opportunity for him to make extra cash. On this island, any locals you greet with a nod could offer their services.

Most of the hidden gems are tucked far away from the main tourist sites, including Danau Aek Natonang (a lake within Lake Toba), Tubiak Hot Spring, and Sigarattung Waterfall. But the one that stood out to me is Holbung Hill, located about a 1.5-hour motorbike ride from Tuk Tuk.

Clinging to the back of the bike, I felt the wind tear through my hair and scream in my ears as we zipped through the villages. Going uphill, the engine sputtered like it was stalling, then died completely. Scrambling to keep the bike upright, my tour guide slammed his foot on the kickstart in frustration. A few more attempts ensued before the engine finally roared back to life, much to both of our relief.

The Otherworldly Holbung Hill

As we approached Holbung Hill, a suspension bridge with red cables came into view: the Aek Tano Ponggol Bridge, connecting Samosir Island to Sumatra. 

People lined the edge of the bridge and peered down. I followed their gaze to an aerial view of a cruise ship sailing through, and on either side of the ship were heads bobbing up and down in the water, frolicking like a pod of friendly sea mammals. On closer look, they were a group of village children, giggling without a care in the world as they tossed a ball back and forth. The presence of the cruise ship only added to their excitement.

An Island with a Majority Christian Population

Samosir has the largest population of Christians. Dotting the island are beautiful churches, some standing like silent sentinels, watching over the maze of cornfields. Christianity arrived in the 19th century with Dutch missionaries.

At a fork junction leading to Holbung Hill, we took a road up to the hill of Sibea-Bea. There, a behemoth, white-painted Jesus statue towers skyward with its arms outstretched, glinting in the afternoon sun.

“Did you know this statue is taller than the one in Rio?” My tour guide asked. 

At 200 feet tall, this statue stands relatively taller than the iconic Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro (98 feet). The statue serves as a spiritual landmark that draws pilgrims and tourists from near and far. Tilting my head back, the larger-than-life statue loomed down on me, dwarfing me in its grandeur and spectacle.

Dreamlike Landscape

En route to Holbung Hill, the breathtaking panorama of rolling hills stretched for miles. With each hairpin turn, I held my breath, bracing for the new sweeping vista to unfold. 

The trek to the top is an easy 30-minute stroll. Trails crisscross the wavy grasslands, each leading to different vantage points on the lake. Locals also call the hill Teletubbies Hill for its resemblance to the hills on the kids’ show.

On the grassy hill, I sat overlooking the green shore that meandered along the shimmering blue lake. The bright sky gave way to a gloomy overcast, shrouding the landscape in a darker shade. Raindrops fell on my face. The tour guide nudged my shoulder, signaling it was time to leave. I held up a finger—just one more minute.

I knew in my heart that one minute is not enough. I could sit the entire day taking in the dreamlike panorama that silences me yet fills me with overwhelming awe.

How to Get to Lake Toba

You can reach Parapat (ferry to Samosir) by bus from Amplas station in Medan. Alternatively, you can take a train to Siantar from Medan and then a shared taxi or bus to Parapat. Another option is to fly to Silangit Airport, the nearest airport to the lake.