California Has Been Falling into the Ocean for Years at Point Arena

By Mary Charlebois

“One day, California will fall into the ocean.”

It’s a common phrase about frequent earthquakes and faults in the golden state. The truth is, California is already falling into the ocean and has been, for thousands of years.

There is a remote and wild place where you can see every stage of the geologic process happening. It’s an area so dynamic, yet so fragile; it’s protected in perpetuity as a national monument.

Monument Status

From Point Arena California to Manchester State Park, ten miles of coastline, headlands, meadows, woodlands and Garcia River wetlands are protected public lands. On March 11, 2014, former President Barack Obama, added the Point Arena-Stornetta Public Lands to the California Coastal National Monument, an addition of 1,665 acres. Local folks usually refer to it as Stornetta or Stornetta Lands.

Stornetta is the first onshore addition to the coastal monument. It’s the only part of the monument that may be explored on foot. Day use is encouraged for education, hiking, bird watching, plant identification, picnicking, photography and wildlife observation.

Flora and Fauna

Stornetta lands are coastal habitat for sea lions, seals, marine, shore and predatory birds. Songbirds, ravens and many species of migratory flyers drop in for R&R.

Two endangered species found in the area are Behren’s silverspot butterfly and the Mount Point Arena mountain beaver. Both are on the endangered list due to diminished numbers and habitat loss. The Mendocino Coast is their last stand.

In springtime, wildflowers bloom on Stornetta meadows. When rains are plentiful, waterfalls spring to life and fields become flamboyant carpets, spreading to the headlands. Sea Pink and Iris are abundant. Numerous flowering plants call the area home. Some are rare, others endangered, all are delicate. Plants feed wildlife, provide habitat, hold water, feed the soil and help retard erosion.

Geology

Stornetta is geologically fascinating. Tectonic forces, waves, wind and tide all play a part in sculpting the coastline. The San Andres Fault is visible on the horizon. Evidence of the Earth’s movement is on the surface. Tectonic and volcanic activity have generated uplifts. The monolithic stone plates jut at dynamic angles from the Earth’s crust.

“It’s like a nursery for stacks”, says local guide, Margaret Lindgren, “they start on shore, but eventually leave home.” Stacks and islands begin as fissures or fractures in the ground. Water run-off, waves, tectonic shifts and time, wear away the stone.

In the process caves, tunnels and tubes are carved in the rocks. Eventually, areas separate, forming islands and stacks. Over time, they erode, growing smaller and smaller and disappearing into the Pacific.

One of the most dramatic stages of stack and island creation are blow-holes. Incoming waves create an eruption of water shooting up a tube drilled by Nature’s forces.

Stacks and islands are used by birds and marine mammals for breeding and raising their young. Eggs, chicks and pups are safer from predators on a near-shore island than on the beach or headlands.

Coastal Monument

The California Coastal Monument covers 1,100-miles between Mexico and Oregon. It includes all islands, islets, rocks, reefs, and pinnacles, within 12-nautical (13.81 statutes) miles of shore. The only terra firma that’s part of the coastal monument is the 1,665-acre, Point Arena-Stornetta Unit. The monument safeguards an estimated 20,000 off-shore outcroppings and the newly added Stornetta lands.

The coast is one of the most viewed and photographed parts of California. Many people have no idea they are looking at a national monument. The California Coastal National Monument was created by Presidential proclamation in January 2000 and is managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, an agency of the U.S. Department of the Interior.

Exploring

Explore Stornetta year-round from sunrise to sunset. Three parking areas with restrooms are near trailheads. Consider a knowledgeable guide for introductions to plants, wildlife and geology. With just a little guidance, you’ll become a citizen scientist in no time.

A trail guide and map are available from Mendocino Land Trust, an excellent resource for numerous trails on Mendocino Coast public lands. The map and guide can be downloaded to a smartphone. Cell service can be sketchy to non-existent in this area.

Local guide, Margaret Lindgren, from Unbeaten Path Tours, leads solo or group walks of Stornetta lands. She shares her passion for local history, geology, wildlife, plants, waves, wind and tides. Her tours are tailored to your interest and walking ability.

No matter how you explore, alone or with a guide, you can immerse yourself in a coastal treasure, Stornetta lands.

GETTING THERE

Stornetta lands are between Point Arena and Manchester California, on HWY 1, Mendocino County. It’s an average 3-hour drive north from the Golden Gate Bridge. This scenic drive deserves the phrase, ‘it’s the journey, not the destination.’ Most folks drive, some cycle the challenging Hwy 1.

EAT, SLEEP & PLAY

This part of the Mendocino Coast is made up of small towns. Many are micro-towns, communities with fewer than 250 citizens. Services are available but limited in some areas.

Sleep

Point Arena offers unique accommodations you’re unlikely to find elsewhere. Sleep in a lakeside cottage behind the giraffe barn at B Bryan Preserve. At Oz Farm, stay in a double geodesic dome on the river and do some farm work if you like. Point Arena Lighthouse rents the lightkeeper’s cottage. It’s within walking distance of the Stronetta trailhead.

Camping/RVs: Manchester State Park; and KOA, Manchester.

Eat

Bird on Main Street in Point Arena is the best choice for delectably prepared, locally sourced food and wine. Uneda Pizza and Chowder House are good choices for casual dining in Arena Cove. Both eateries have indoor and outdoor seating perfect for wave, boat, surfer and sunset watching.

Cook like a local: Manchester – Sjolund Country Market, for local food, wine, and beer. Find picnicking, camp supplies and hardware at this long time, family-owned store. Point Arena Market is a grocery, café and coffee shop. It’s an excellent place to chat with locals.

Play

Live music performance in Point Arena and 15 miles south in Gualala. Art shows and galleries feature the talent in the region. This is an outdoor lovers paradise. You can surf, kayak, hike, and cycle. Go boating, fishing, or watch the world go by.

Come to see California fall into the ocean, stick around to explore the area filled with exuberant Nature and passionate makers of food, libations, art, and music, California’s Point Arena.