Old Town Riga, Protected, Preserved And Utilized For Centuries

By Mary Charlebois
Senior Writer

Old Town Riga captivated us the moment we stepped onto its cobblestone streets and saw the medieval architecture. What stories were embedded in these stone walls, narrow passages, and town squares?

The aroma of baking dark-rye bread filled the air, emanating from a bakery as we walked along the narrow streets flanked by shops, pubs, and sidewalk cafes. In the early morning, the streets were quiet, with only the occasional delivery and a handful of coffee lovers enjoying their morning brew at sidewalk cafes.

We joined the early birds, leisurely sipping our tea and munching the freshly baked chocolate croissants. We absorbed the ambiance as the day slowly unfolded before us. The walls were about to tell their stories in Old Town Riga, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Old Town Riga is protected by a robust twenty-six international, national, and local legal acts. Part of this protection ensures Old Town can’t be made an overbuilt tourist attraction. In this car-free district, the streets are only open to pedestrians and cyclists.

Preserving this Latvian treasure is taken seriously. You won’t find the usual franchised pizza and burger joints plaguing tourist zones worldwide.

Diverse Old Town of Riga

The historical buildings in Old Town exhibit diverse architectural styles, reflecting various construction periods. The area has more than 500 buildings, each showcasing unique architectural characteristics such as Romanticism, Gothic, Mannerism, Baroque, Eclectic, and Modernism. This rich architectural tapestry provides a glimpse into architectural design’s evolution throughout history.

Throughout history, each building has a fascinating story about its builder, the people who occupied it, and its evolving use over the centuries. Here are four remarkable buildings that have stood the test of time, each with its own story to tell—

St. Peter’s Church—A Church That Won’t Give Up

Your first stop in Old Town Riga should be St. Peter’s Church.

The 404-foot steeple has the most accessible viewing platform in Old Town.

An elevator will take you to a height of 236 feet and an incredible view of Riga’s red roofs. With its 360-degree view, you will see every red rooftop and steeple in Old Town.

When you return to the ground floor, explore the church’s hand-carved altar and statues. St. Peter’s was built on the site of a 13th-century church. Archeologists have concluded the first church was built in 1209.

St. Peter’s story is one of tenacity. Since its completion in the 15th century, it has collapsed (twice), burned (twice), been intentionally raised and rebuilt, and been destroyed during WWII. In 1967, renovation began again to build the building you can explore today.

House Of The Blackheads—Unmarried Fellas And A Christmas Tree

The House of the Blackheads is not only one of the most historic buildings in Old Town but possibly the most notable building in all of Riga.

It was first built in 1334 as a warehouse, meeting hall, and events center. At the time, it was the largest building in Riga.

Around 1450, it was used by The Brotherhood of the Blackheads, a guild of unmarried merchants, shipbuilders, and foreigners. In the 17th century, significant upgrades were undertaken, such as the Mannerist decorations you see today. In 1510, Blackheads was home to Europe’s first decorated Christmas tree.

After the bombings in WWII, The House of the Blackheads was in shambles. Amid the protests of Latvians, the Soviets tore down the building. In 1996, with donations from 5000 locals, The House of the Blackheads was meticulously rebuilt to exacting standards with the help of 17th-century architectural drawings.

Three Brothers—Sibling Rivalry And Tax Evasion

In Old Town, the Three Brothers is a complex of three houses from three eras. The name refers to the belief that three brothers built them. They are the oldest medieval buildings and the oldest housing complex in Riga.

The oldest of these is number 17. It was built at the end of the 1400s. Number 17 was built in three different architectural styles: early Renaissance with Gothic decorations and crow-stepped gables. It was restored in 1955 by architect Peteris Saulitis. Number 17 is now home to the Latvian Museum of Architecture.

The most prominent house in the complex is number 19. It was most likely a wealthy merchant’s home. The exterior is from 1646, and the large windows in the front may have been doors.

In the 1600s, there was a tax for each window, but the merchants quickly realized this and turned the windows into swinging doors, allowing fresh air to flow like a window. This building shows details of the Dutch Mannerism style.

The smallest of the three, number 21, is a narrow building with a late 17th-century Baroque appearance. The actual date of this example of Baroque architecture is not known. Number 21 houses The Ministry of Smart Administration and Regional Development.

The Cat House—Revenge Looks Like A Cat

The Cat House, just off Town Hall Square, was constructed in 1909 as a residential and office building for a wealthy tradesman.

It is still used for these purposes today.

The Cat House has an interesting, if not fabled, story. The legend indicates the tradesman who intended to join the House of The Great Guild after commissioning the building to architect Friedrich Scheffel. To his chagrin, the Guild turned him down.

He ordered the architect to place two copper cats on each turret of the medieval-style building with arched backs and raised tails turned towards the House of The Great Guild as a protest for not being accepted into the membership.

The city later ordered him to turn the cats around to face the Guild. This Gothic structure, with its Art Nouveau entrance, was one of a handful of Town Square buildings unaffected by the bombings in WWII.

Why Is Old Town Riga A UNESCO World Heritage Site?

From the UNESCO website – Riga was a major center of the Hanseatic League, deriving its prosperity in the 13th–15th centuries from trade with central and eastern Europe. The urban fabric of its medieval center reflects this prosperity, though most of the earliest buildings were destroyed by fire or war.

Riga became an important economic center in the 19th century, when the suburbs surrounding the medieval town were laid out, first with imposing wooden buildings in neoclassical style and then in Jugendstil. It is also generally recognized that Riga has the finest collection of art nouveau buildings in Europe.

Old Town Riga: Try Latvian Food

Latvian cuisine is hearty and comforting.

It uses locally sourced ingredients such as potatoes, carrots, onions, cabbage, pork, freshwater fish, seafood, and dairy products.

Traditional Latvian dishes include speķapīrāgi (bacon in a small croissant), kartupeļu pankūkas (potato pancakes) served in many different ways, and incredible dark rye bread which is used in many dishes, including desserts and soft drinks.

Hearty soups and stews made with beef and root vegetables are on every menu. Latvians are master sausage makers. Be sure to try some with sauerkraut and potatoes; it will be unforgettable. Latvian food also features a wide variety of berry-based desserts and beverages. Here are four places where we ate and recommend—

Lido Alus Seta

Many restaurants exist in Old Town Riga, but Lido Alus Seta has the most extensive variety when you want traditional Baltic food.

The choices are plentiful—the cafeteria-style eatery has salads and soups, including Šaltibarščiai, the cold pink soup made from beetroots that is popular in summer.

The side and main dishes will not leave you hungry. The dessert bar is a feast for your eyes. Pie, cake, puddings, cookies, and every sweet baked goods imaginable will make you want dessert first. There is something for every taste and diet preference.

We had traditional sausage with mashed potatoes, onion gravy and sauerkraut. We also tried a chicken breast stuffed with rye bread dressing. It was tasty, tender, and juicy.

Lido also has beer on tap and wine. The pictures say it all: choices and more choices, all high-quality ingredients, perfectly prepared. One of the best things about Lido Alus Seta is that it is family and budget-friendly.

Three Chefs Restaurant

Three Chefs Restaurant has created a new world of Latvian cuisine in the historic 18th-century Jacobs Barracks.

In 2011, chefs Martins Sirmais, Eriks Dreibants, and later Arturs Trinkus joined to form Three Chefs. They had help from friends and family who donated equipment, furniture, art, and anything else they could muster to get the restaurant off the ground. They haven’t looked back, becoming Michelin-listed along the way. The restaurant’s eclectic decorating helps give character to this innovative, modern establishment.

The menu features dishes sourced locally. Everything is made in-house. Mary decided on the perfectly cooked juicy beef filet with wild broccoli, shitake mushrooms, and mashed potatoes. Kevin chose spring lamb with leeks, potato cream, bear’s muzzle (a type of mushroom), and a delicious red wine glaze.

The bread service was very unique. Our meal began with an artistic presentation: various sauces were squirted onto a sheet of paper at our table, resembling a Jackson Pollock painting. We dipped our house-made bread into the sauces and consumed the artwork.

Gutenbergs Terrace

Gutenbergs Terrace, in Old Town Riga, has operated for 15+ years. Situated on the rooftop of the Hotel Gutenberg, it has panoramic views of Old Town and beyond.

The menu features traditional Latvian and international dishes. We chose fish from the river and the sea. Kevin’s Pike Perch fillet was from the Daugava River, which we could see from our table. Mary’s grilled octopus was from the Baltic Sea, eight miles away. The asparagus and salad we had were from local farms that grow specially for Gutenbergs.

Riga Central Market

Riga Central Market was a bit overwhelming. It is not in Old Town Riga but is within walking distance. The market is part of the history and culture that can’t be experienced elsewhere. It is a vibrant and bustling marketplace with an authentic shopping experience.

Spread over five pavilions (former Zepplin hangers), it is the largest market in the Baltic States and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The market is a treasure trove of local produce, handicrafts, and freshly prepared Latvian delicacies. Make a point of going there when you are in Riga.

Stalls are filled with a variety of goods, from traditional Latvian food items like smoked fish, rye bread, and honey to handmade wool socks, amber jewelry, and local ceramics. The atmosphere is infused with the aromas of freshly cooked meals and the friendly banter of vendors and shoppers. It truly captures the essence of Latvian culture.

Plan for several hours; it is enormous! We went late in the afternoon, and many vendors were closing. Still, we managed to get some local cheese and bread to take as snacks for our bus trip to Lithuania the next day.

Riga Central Market offers a sensory journey that should not be missed, from traditional Latvian folk music telling stories of love, loss, struggle, war, and freedom to the enticing scent of freshly baked pastries, grilling fish, and roasting meat.

Sleeping In the Heart of Old Town Riga

Old Town has dozens of hotels, B and Bs, guest houses, vacation rentals, and hostels. All have one thing in common: the daily rates will seem a bargain compared to similar accommodation in a popular tourist district in the US. We stayed in two hotels during our ten days in Riga. We recommend both.

Wellton Centrum Hotel And Spa

In the heart of Old Town Riga, the Wellton Centrum Hotel and Spa is a contemporary hotel near some of the city’s most famous attractions.

One of the highlights of our stay was the breakfast buffet, which had dishes for every taste. Champagne was also included, so we started each day with a mimosa.

The hotel was spotlessly clean and very well maintained. Our room was comfortable and well-equipped. We had plenty of space to relax and work. Our bed was very comfortable and had quality linens with plenty of pillows. (Mary needs at least four.)

The staff was professional and accommodating. Their English is excellent. We only wish our Latvian was as good. We did not experience the spa but learned it offers comprehensive services, including pool and hot tub access.

Hilton Garden Inn Old Town Riga

We spent three nights at the Hilton Garden Inn Old Town Riga. We typically don’t stay in American-style hotels when traveling in Europe, but HGI was a lovely exception, combining European and Western amenities.

Our room overlooked the red tile rooftops of Old Town Riga. The comfy king-sized bed was a treat for us over-sized Americans. We had a nice little seating area where we enjoyed tea in the morning and wine in the evening.

Breakfast was buffet-style each morning. Our favorites were the cooked-to-order omelets and make-your-own waffles. The multilingual staff is welcoming and helpful.

Language in Latvia

Latvian, also known as Lettish, is Latvia’s official language. It is closely related to Lithuanian and is written in the Latin script. English is widely spoken. Most restaurants will have menus in Latvian and English. Russian is also spoken by many, especially the older generation.

Documents—You need only a current passport to visit Latvia. As a member of the Schengen Area, a visa is not necessary.

Fly—Riga International Airport (RIX) is the largest airport in Latvia. Direct flights are available from 107 destinations with 13 airlines. There are no direct flights from the United States to Riga. We found the best schedules and fares with AirBaltic.

Train—You can reach Riga by train from anywhere in Europe.

Bus—You can reach Riga by bus from anywhere in Europe. The bus terminal is a five-minute cab ride from Old Town Riga.

Drive—Rental cars are available at the airport. Be sure to have an International Driver’s Permit (available from AAA). The roads are well-mapped, modern, and well-maintained. Highway signs are in Latvian. Fuel, like everywhere, is expensive. Parking in Old Town will be costly and difficult to find.

Where To Learn More Of Old Town Riga’s Stories

• Visit Old Town Riga on the Latvia Travel website. You can also explore more areas of Riga and Latvia.
• Engage Andra Brice. She is the unofficial ‘travel ambassador’ for Andra was our storyteller, guide, and historian for an Old Town and Art Nouveau walking tours. Her English is perfect, plus she speaks several other languages. Her knowledge is outstanding, and her companionship is delightful.
• Thinking of going for a holiday? Read GoNOMAD’s Christmas and New Year’s in Riga, Latvia.