Small fishing towns are special in so many ways: lack of congestion, country cool, historic buildings, and friendly people with the time to chat – like Paternoster, a 90-minute scenic drive north of Cape Town.

By Cindy-Lou Dale
Senior Travel Writer

Paternoster:

It’s picture-postcard pretty, with white-washed cottages, jagged cliffs, white boulders, and long stretches of talcum sand beaches. It’s the diamond of the West Coast, the heart of the lobster country.

Stepping over sleeping dogs to gain access to At Botha’s art studio, I’m overcome with the shock of color.

At is a passionate self-taught canvas artist, using delicate brush strokes in creating vivid imagery of striking local scenes.

He’s also an actor — performing in a current South African television series.

Paternoster Waterfront

At Paternoster Waterfront, a repurposed fish factory, which has kept much of its heritage, are the studios of internationally exhibited artists like Gretha Helberg and Uro Erichsen.

Lunch at Jislaaikit was meant to be take-out but I was invited to sit at their only table on the stoep. Milay du Toit, Luanca Engelbrecht, and Mariska Swart prepare fish and chips like I’ve never experienced.

The Panty Bar

The Panty Bar in the Paternoster Hotel was heaving with locals, one of which told me the interesting story behind how the Panty Bar came about its interesting name.

In 1974 Johan Carosini started the collection of honeymoon panties in the hotel bar, which would be nailed to the ceiling.

The popularity of the Panty Bar grew, along with its collection of women’s underwear, and it soon became a legendary landmark on South Africa’s West Coast.

Regular donations ensure the tradition continues to the amusement of visitors from all over the world.

Stone Fish Studio and Gallery

The Stone Fish Studio and Gallery is filled with gorgeous ceramics. If you go on a Saturday morning you can make pottery and they’ll bake and glaze it for you during the week.

When I entered the Studio, Zimbabwean artist, Linda Tsanga, was glazing bowls from the previous Saturday.

Next door is Jem & Pantoffels, here Cheryl de la Porte displays an astounding collection – soy candles, books, sheepskin slippers, fancy soaps, fine jewellery, tin mugs, curry powder (with a health warning), oriental kettles, handmade ladies’ shoes. It’s all rather splendid!

www.visitpaternoster.co.za

Lambert’s Bay:

At Lambert’s Bay, 90-minutes further north along the rugged ‘wild’ West Coast, expect to find a seafood mecca. This is the heart of crayfish country, a working fishing harbour, more endless white beaches, and home a myriad of talented artists.

Like Bertina Engelbrecht, a skilled pâtissier and owner of Mad Hatter Coffee Shop. She’s adding the final touches to a cake. “This is for a care-worker who looks after one of our elderly locals,” she announced.

Outside, Bertina’s husband, Francois ‘Billa’ Engelbrecht, an accomplished artist/surfer, is at work painting a lamp post on the exterior of the shop.

A few blocks away is Nicolien Cordy studio. Her tiny, rustic studio exhibits some of the most exquisite paintings I’ve seen in a while. Bright splashes of color applied in deep swirls and finished with rough cast wooden frames.

Lachlan Matthews is possibly the most extraordinary artist I’ve yet met – sculptures, stoneware celebrating San paintings, and skeletal bones.

“I find bones washed up on the beach and in the veld; it’s a sad reminder of a once-living being with its own individuality. This would be a melancholy thought were it not that death is a moment in life, not a moment to be welcomed, but neither to be feared.”

Nico van Der Merwe is one of those eccentric characters you hope you’d meet on your travels – he creates characters from wire and air-drying clay on cloth.

His beautiful home studio is a world of little people going about their lives – all to the background sounds of soft jazz.

A wine tasting at Paternoster Wine and Tasting Room, a custom designed wine bar, where I’m served a selection of the artisanal ‘Swewer’ wine series.

Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel – is something to behold. They’re a cluster of 13 white-washed buildings, within metres of the Atlantic Ocean.

Positioned at its entre is the hotel open-fronted restaurant, facing the beach.

My suite was elegance personified. Think spacious and airy with a sea-facing sliding glass wall and deck.

Langebaan:

In Langebaan, I stop at the home of Daphne Devey.

She’s willowy and soft-spoken and introduces me to the astounding work of the artists she represents at Bay Gallery. Choosing a favourite is impossible as each has an appeal different to the next.

Meeting WA at Bettie Bok

At Bettie Bok bokstal (goat stall) I meet the owner WA, who plated me a phenomenal goat’s cheese tasting. Think spiced-up goat’s cheeses, goat yogurt, goat butter, and mind-blowing goat’s cheesecake.

WA is also a sheep dog farmer and South Africa’s National ‘Brace’ Champion (handing two dogs at once).

There’s something restorative to this 400km windswept coastline on South Africa’s west coast. It’s awe-inspiring, and so utterly jaw-droppingly beautiful you’ll simultaneously catch your breath and have it taken away.

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