By Sonja Stark
Pilot Girl Productions

Towering limestone cliffs, golden beaches, and pristine rainforests, Australia’s southern coastline captured my imagination and stole my heart.

From wildlife sanctuaries with sleepy koalas to towering waterfalls in lush rainforests, my visit to the Victoria region, in our rental, at our own pace, was the way to go.   Staging points on and off the Great Ocean Road region provided insight and appreciation into this surprisingly fragile environment.

Crush Season at Heroes 

Upon arriving at Heroes Vineyard my heart sank.  The road sign read “closed due to hot weather”. 

Oh no, it can’t be, we had come all the way from America!  The sign continued… “but, open if you’re desperate!”   The temps hovered near 100°F so, yes, we were desperate.  

Inside the rustic tasting room, Jamie Thomas worked hard to harvest ripe grapes into crates alongside barrels chalked with Bowie’s face. Thomas personally illustrates his anti-hero wine labels with Banksy-like renditions of children spray-painting the vineyard’s name.

Ten varieties lined the display counter and, in typical Aussie fashion, the humble owner stopped to say hello with a complimentary bottle of bubbly. (Proceeds from the Deeds Not Words vintage go to support women in crisis).

The time Jamie spent with us would be the first of many magnanimous gestures Australians are famous for.

Port Campbell National Park

Annually, some two million visitors descend onto viewing platforms at the 12 Apostles.  They tumble out of tour buses to jockey for a 10-minute window.   

Naturally, the 12 Apostles is a cosmic highlight.  Seven of the original nine geologic monoliths stand like soldiers guarding buried treasure.  And, in some ways, they do.

The Port Campbell National Park is an epic collection of limestone stacks, pillars, arches, and grottos that will humble the spirit.  The wind and surf reshape these silent sentries into something different almost daily.  Haunting tributes to those lost to shipwrecks remind us of the precariousness of life.  Clean white beaches attract the tiniest of penguins at twilight to breed and nest.  This place truly is beyond imagination.

I took to admire the area’s raw beauty at the Port Campbell Visitors Center. A flank of microscopes, anemometers, binoculars, and even telescopes provided an opportunity to engage with the local flora, fauna, and aboriginal ancestry in a more meaningful way.  At the Center, I meet up with Mark Cuthell, the team’s most passionate educator. 

Mark pushed away piles of papers in his scrappy pickup truck to make space for our adventure.   “Sorry about the mess,” he smiled.  Rocking out to indie-pop artists Beach Fossils, we headed to vistas to listen, learn, and contemplate.   

A pair of Eastern Gray kangaroos kept pace with our Toyota nearing the Bay of Islands.

Safeguarding Growth

“Be mindful of the habitat. Vegetation is home to many threatened species,” advises Mark.   Just then a small echidna scrambled into the brush.  I stayed on the trail to score a photo.  There’s reason to be protective. 

This stunning region continues to undergo significant transformation at a rate faster than normal due to climate change.   Stronger ocean swells and surges chip away at the soft limestone cliffs and mainland shoreline.  Erosion endangers wildlife and wreaks havoc on roads.

Carved by Time

Gazing out over 20 million-year-old shoreline beauty makes my mind go numb. I inhale the sea air and watch the afternoon sun dance on the faulty towers.  We explore lesser-known coves, unusual blowholes, and long-lost shipwrecks.  

I swoon oversights at each scenic watchpoint but can’t name a favorite.  It’s too surreal for words.  You need to see these imposing structures to digest their significance.

 Aquatic Birds at Sunset

At dusk, a mass of little Fairy Penguins waddle ashore on the London Bridge beach to nest in burrows.  Standing no taller than a ruler, they are the smallest penguin to breed on the Aussie mainland.   My camera captured the deafening waves at sunset but little else stirred commotion.   Still, it was the perfect place to ruminate at the vastness of the South Pacific.  

Barramundi on the Barbie 

That afternoon, from our schoolhouse VRBO in Port Campbell, we de-corked a bottle of local bubbly to toast our arrival.   We satiate on a huge slab of Barramundi bought earlier from a fishmonger in Colac.   

We prepared the succulent white fish ”on the Barbie,” as Aussies like to say, on a charming wraparound deck overlooking the garden yard.  

The land evokes awe and wonder at every turn including the night sky.  Under the Southern Cross, Marie, Mark and my partner George celebrate 50 years of friendship. 

Save Gas, Save Wildlife

After a quick 5K run on the Discovery Trail, we bid goodbye to Port Campbell and spin the wheel east on B100.  Driving on the opposite side of the road requires serious concentration. Distractions are strictly off-limits.  Repeating the words ‘stay left, stay left,’ helps to keep you focused.   I mistaken the windshield wipers for the the turn signal one too many times.  

Thankfully, my tribe is merciful of the gaffes, unlike the speed camera that clocked me driving seven miles over the speed limit.  Roadkill is a serious problem so authorities leave no room for mercy.

Located roughly 5 miles east of Apollo Bay, the camera is famous for issuing 1 speeding ticket every 4 minutes.  You’ve been warned!  

Soaring High on Suspension Bridges 

An hour later, we detour from the Great Ocean Road and arrive at the heart of an enchanting temperate rainforest, the Otway National Park.  

We thrill to great heights at Fly Treetop Adventures explored via bouncy steel walkways and observation towers built 30 meters above the ground. 

A labyrinth of suspension bridges provides a unique perspective of Australia’s famous, 300-year-old Myrtle Beech.  The moss-covered giant is a true inspiration.

Connecting with Nature 

They sleep 20 hours a day so seeing koalas awake is a rare treat.  Under a canopy of tall eucalyptus and redwoods, just before entering the Cape Otway Lighthouse grounds, we spy a mama koala and her baby joey high in the treetops. 

They linger on skinny limbs munching leaves oblivious to our clicking cameras.  A growing group of spectators strain their necks to catch a glimpse.   Admiring these elusive mammals in a threatened environment brings elation and joy. 

Protection at Wildlife Wonders

According to many, the oft-described rugged hinterland of Victoria is at risk from wildfires, logging, and development.   We experienced the inclement high temps and strong winds every day.  What a relief it was then to meet Conservationist Lizzie Corke.  She is the CEO of Wildlife Wonders, a sanctuary doing whatever it can to help vulnerable species co-exist.   

“The climate is changing faster than species can keep up.  That’s why it’s important to establish resilient spaces,” she tells us. 

Wildlife Wonders dedicates countless hours, energy, and effort to ensure protection for many diverse creatures.

Preyed on by cats and foxes, species are protected with tall fencing.  The haven allows koalas, kangaroos, swamp wallabies, wombats, bandicoots, pademelons, emus, and nesting birds the freedom to both survive and thrive.  And, with a set of binoculars and my friend Marie’s sharp eye, we saw them all.  

Gratefully, Lizzie lets our curiosity lapse longer than the designated 90-minute tour.  In return, we shopped for crafts made by local artisans that benefit the sanctuary. 

Oceanside Eats

The bushland is home to a bounty of farms, cellar doors, artisan galleries, and gourmet kitchens. It was on the itinerary but we ran out of time for farm-to-table options on the nearby Otway Harvest Trail.   This region is rich in low-impact living, especially in the Autumn months (March, through May).    

No matter, we knew we were in for equally savorful samples queuing at the Apollo Bay Bakery the next morning.  We boxed up four famous scallop pies that we’d later enjoy at our next stay.    With ocean views, we dined on a medley of fusion favorites at the nearby Birdhouse restaurant for dinner. 

Plunging Waterfalls 

Day 3 on the Great Ocean Road and in the town of Lorne we venture 6 miles north to stretch our legs at Erskine Falls.  

The Otway Ranges are notorious for their high rainfall but even amidst a month-long drought, we find a few green fern gullies at the base of the 100-foot drop. 

The waterfall is an easy hike to both lookouts and a bit more challenging on the return trip up 235 slippery steps.  We were forewarned of horseflies and mosquitos but the only thing buzzing about were the Yellow-Tailed Black Cockatoos.  Of course, their mournful wailing call caught Marie’s ear.   The large parrot species is on the decline but still visible in old-growth trees.

Surf’s Up 

Passing the Memorial Arch, an iconic attraction considered the gateway to the Great Ocean Road, the road continues to cling to coastal beauty.  

The Arch honors the 3,000 soldiers, some of whom lost their lives constructing the famous road during World War I. 

None of us in my party know how to surf but that doesn’t mean we can’t appreciate the sport.  While in  Australia’s surfing capital, Torquay, we immerse ourselves with the fearless legends who made it look easy. 

On display at the National Surfing Museum are 150+ colorful boards, memorabilia, and Hall of Fame Trophies.  Biographies and photos highlight the life, impact, and culture that competitive surfing has had on the world.  

Crossing the Finish Line at Charlie’s 

The next morning, we embark on a 40-minute ferry ride from the Queenscliff across Port Phillip Bay to the piers of Sorrento.  Dolphins chase the boat as we pass a blue hole. 

We have officially entered a fabulous new wine region called Mornington Peninsula.   Our idyllic self-driving journey culminated in Melbourne but not before visiting Charlie’s Auto Museum high atop a town called Arthur’s Seat. 

With over 120 assorted motor vehicles on display, the vintage car collection wowed my car-thirsty mechanic mate.  With abandon, he reveled in rare and unusual finds, like the 1914 Studebaker SC14 and a 1911 Studebaker horse-drawn buggy. 

I too marveled at the replica planes and bicycle memorabilia. We didn’t get to meet the brains behind the bounty, Charlie Schwerkolt, but we sincerely appreciated his ‘show and tell’ exhibits.    

Inspiration for the Next Time

What makes a destination go from good to great?   It’s the connections you make.  Befriend at least one local a day, enough that you exchange emails or a hug, and suddenly the place feels like home.  Nowhere was that easier to do than in Australia.