When you think of Wisconsin, you may not picture a tourist’s paradise of fascinating Scandinavian history, white sandy beaches, and gourmet cuisine– allow Door County to prove otherwise!

By Sarah Arksey

The Door County Peninsula begins roughly one hour north of Green Bay airport and contains 14 incorporated towns— each with its own unique personality while maintaining an integral role in the peninsula’s tight-knit community. 

Your first stop is likely to be Sturgeon Bay, Door County’s seat and largest city at just shy of 10,000 people. From here, your northward trek will reveal an incredibly diverse cornucopia of cuisine, topography, and cultural history.

If you’re looking to refresh and modernize your concept of the American Midwest, get to know Door County!

Getting in touch with nature

Door County lies on the Niagara Escarpment, an interesting geological feature similar to a fault line. The rocky coastline results from unequal erosion and runs through Canada from New York to Illinois.

The escarpment is primarily made of limestone— a feature I learned gives way to shallow topsoil, perfect for growing cherry trees!

Door County is known for its commitment to environmental conservation and boasts several nature reserves. I was privileged to visit two such locations, The Ridges in Bailey’s Harbour and Crossroads in Sturgeon Bay.

The Ridges permanently protects over 1600 acres of land. It was named for its distinct topographical landscape— a series of 30 ridges and marshy depressions called swales, resulting from 1400 years of Lake Michigan’s aquatic movement.

Right now, a major focus of The Ridges’ more than 1700 staff and 100 volunteers is the conservation of endangered species, particularly the Hine’s Emerald dragonfly. In addition to being great for our planet’s ecosystem, this effort results in natural mosquito control— dragonflies are some of their biggest predators!

Crossroads places a large emphasis on community. The more intimate nature reserve runs programs year-round like homeschooling group meetups, camps, and lectures.

Maritime activities and history

Boat tours are a great way to learn all about Door County’s geographical features and history while spending a sunny afternoon on the water. I joined Shoreline Boat Tours for a memorable journey from Sturgeon Bay town port through Sturgeon Bay itself, while an on-board local guide recanted the area’s history.

I also had the pleasure of kayaking to Cave Point on a tour led by Jon, 21— who loves his summer job at Door County Kayak Tours. “I love people— getting to know where they’re from and their different backgrounds”, explains Jon, “It doesn’t hurt that I get to kayak in such a beautiful place either!”

One of Door County’s most famous geological features is Port des Morts or “Death’s Door”— the name of which comes from the maritime region’s numerous detached coral reefs, which have led to around 240 shipwrecks. Many of these wrecks are clustered in an area known as the Boneyard, which I was able to visit during a tour with Door County Adventure Rafting. We were able to hover over several wrecks in our motorized raft, nearly close enough to touch— and this area is also a popular scuba diving location.

Washington and Rock Island’s Scandinavian roots

When it comes to Door County’s northernmost communities, Washington Island and Rock Island, visitors will find that they are Scandinavian at heart. It’s said that the plentiful fishing and gorgeous maritime landscapes reminded Icelandic, Swedish, and Norwegian immigrants of home. Washington Island is the second-oldest Icelandic settlement in the United States after Spanish Fork, Utah, with the first migrants arriving over 150 years ago. By 1924, 10% of Icelandic-American settlers resided in northern Door County.

As you make your way to the Washington Island Ferry, you’ll notice that the road is paved in an intentionally serpentine curve, which winds towards the ferry dock. Landscape architect Jens Jensen designed this road to encourage drivers to slow down and take in Door County’s gorgeous scenery—  a lovely idea, though it may not seem that way to those rushing to catch the ferry!       

One of our first stops on Washington Island was Stavkirke Church. A Stavirke is a church constructed out of wood using the same techniques found in Viking shipmaking, and these churches are plentiful in Europe– especially Scandinavia– but there are only a handful in the United States, mostly in the Midwest and New England.

Washington Island’s Stavkirke has a fairytale appearance that looks like it’s from another era, but it was constructed less than 30 years ago in 1995. Norway’s Borgund Stavkirke, built in 1150, was used as a reference since it is among the most well-preserved original Stakirkes in the world. The chapel functions as a Lutheran Church and hosts special religious services year-round, as well as weddings that are on the smaller side– the small, intricate chapel has a capacity of just 38.

Uninhabited Rock Island

Just a stone’s throw away, the uninhabited Rock Island has its own unique attractions. The white sand of Rock Island Beach could easily be mistaken for a Caribbean shore. It’s also nearly private– park manager Brian Grube told me he’s never seen more than 100 people on the beach’s expansive perimeter. The capacity of the beach is greatly limited by Rock Island’s ferry-only access, which shuttles over a maximum of 360 visitors per day.

The island has 42 overnight camping spots, but no hotels or public cabins, and it is completely uninhabited save for park ranger Brooke McCallum, who resides there during the park’s operational season, mid-May to mid-October. The island is not connected to the electrical grid- all power is produced locally by a generator or solar panel.

What’s life like for the lone semi-permanent inhabitant of Rock Island? “Typically, my day involves greeting the ferry, maintaining the campground and trails, and ensuring that structures like the boathouse, Pottawatomie Lighthouse, Pagoda, and Watertower are well-maintained,” says McCallum.

When asked about her favorite aspect of the island, she added: “Rock Island State Park in Wisconsin offers natural beauty and rich history. One standout feature is the remnants of old house foundations that can be found all over the island, prompting visitors to imagine life in the mid-19th century.”

McCallum is quite the history buff and gave us an impromptu tour of the island, relaying the detailed lore behind Rock Island highlights such as Rock Island boathouse, built in 1929 by Icelandic-American inventor Chester Thordarson.

Pottawatomie Lighthouse, named for the Indigenous tribe central to Door County, is perhaps the crown jewel of Rock Island– and an excellent stop for a guided tour. The original lighthouse pre-dated Wisconsin– it was built in 1836. This building was demolished less than 20 years later and replaced with a new lighthouse in 1858, which was pristinely restored to its 1810s-era appearance in the 1890s by local non-profit organization Friends of Rock Island.

The land immediately surrounding the lighthouse contains historical and geological gems. A short, steep flight of wooden stairs leads down to a rocky shore– perfect for quiet contemplation and skipping stones. Just a few steps from the lighthouse, you can find mossy stone steps and limestone caves straight out of a fairytale, as well as Rock Island’s oldest building– which happens to be an outhouse, built over 150 years ago!

Drinking and Dining in Door County

Door County is known for locally produced cherries, lavender, and coffee. For total sensory immersion, start your day with a cup of Door County Coffee in a fun flavor like S’mores or Blueberry Cobbler, and wind down in the evening with some tart cherry juice (which is a natural source of melatonin!) and calming lavender spray on your pillow.

The liquor of choice in Door County is Cherry Bounce– a syrupy cordial said to be a favorite of George Washington. Though the liquor was innovated in 17th century England, it holds a special place in the hearts of Door County locals. There’s even an annual competition to see who can spit a cherry put the farthest– the current record is 48′ 1″.

The Door Peninsula is surrounded by Lake Michigan, making it an excellent spot to try seafood favorites like fresh whitefish. No visit to Door County is complete without a fish boil, a tradition established by Scandinavian settlers in the 1800s, who were seeking an economic way to feed large groups of workers.

For an authentic taste of Door County, head to the Mezzanine in Egg Harbour. “We wanted to pay respects to everything ‘quintessential Door County’ while still putting our spin on things,” said Operations Director Jess Bartnik. Cherry is a major player on their eclectic menu– try the charcuterie platter with local cheese paired with cherry chutney or the whitefish po’boy with spicy cherry tartare. The restaurant also features a true-to-locality cocktail list, including regional classics such as the Cherry Mule and Lavender Gin Fizz (which features house-infused lavender gin as well as novel items such as the Cardamom Vieux Carre- perfect for Earl Grey tea lovers!

Door County is a hotbed of authentic Italian cuisine. Sonny’s Pizzeria in Sturgeon Bay is a delicious (and popular) option for hearty Italian food with an American twist, and Della Porta in Ellison Bay– near the peninsula’s Northern tip– is a great choice for Sicilian classics.

On Washington Island, I recommend stopping at the bustling family-owned summer hotspot Jackson Harbour Soup. Siblings Sarah, Becca, and Art Gibson opened the soup and sandwich stop nearly a decade ago in order to create a gathering place for tourists and locals alike. The Gibson family has deep roots in Door County— the siblings’ maternal grandfather, Rasmus Hanson, owned Rock Island until he sold it to Chester Thordarson. “It’s hard to put into words how much Washington Island, the community, the people and our childhood has meant to each and every one of us in my generation,” says Art, adding that his three children now carry on family traditions by spending their summers on the island.

Also located on Washington Island is perhaps the most unique watering hole in Door County— Nelsen’s Hall, also known as the headquarters of the ‘Bitters Club’. During the prohibition era, owner Tom Nelsen began selling shots of Angostura Bitters as a “stomach tonic for medicinal purposes” to bypass laws prohibiting alcohol sales. Today, the pub is the largest purveyor of Angostura Bitters in the world— but rest assured, visitors can wash down their obligatory bitters shot with a local favorite like a Cherry Old Fashioned or Island Orchard Cherry Cider.

The pub has another unique tradition— visitors can obtain a thumbtack from the bartender, attach it to a dollar bill, and try their luck hurling it at the ceiling in hopes of adding to the pub’s kitschy decor.

Today, only one town in Door County has remained dry(ish) status– the village of Ephraim was the only dry municipality left in Wisconsin until 2016 when a referendum passed to allow the sale of beer and wine at restaurants. Ephraim was founded by Norwegian Moravians in 1853 and enjoyed teetotaler status for more than 150 years.

Moravians practiced a form of Christianity similar to Lutheranism, set apart by the fact that they swore off alcohol. Ephraim’s cheekily named Bad Moravian pub serves up craft beer and Detroit-style pizza, providing locals and tourists with a cozy spot to usher in the new era.

Why Choose Door County?