Urbino, Intellectual Center of Le Marche

Urbino Italy
Urbino Italy

Truffle Territory: Unexplored Urbino in Le Marche, Italy

By David Breeker

Walking up the bricked spiral staircase from the 1400s in Urbino, it is impossible not to be impressed. Five minutesIMG 5873 rotated earlier, I was dropped off at the central carpark at the bottom, and soon I was feeling like I was inside a tower.

I had made it into the heart of this marvelous Italian city.

The steps are remarkably shallow.  They were very suitable for horses’ hooves back in the day. It suits me, too! The way up is long but not steep. Only a few more steps now.

Welcome to Urbino!

Squinting now I could see daylight, I looked up where  Montefeltro used to live. This is the duke who meant a lot to Urbino and who made it the incredible city it is today.

Urbino is a walled UNESCO World Heritage city that sits on a hilltop unlike a fortress. The palace’s facade faces outwards at the impressive facade of the Palazzo Ducale.

This is the ducale palace Federico de, overlooking the beautiful hills of the Marche region.

Visit Palazzo Ducale and the National Gallery

Walk along the facade, dash into an alley with similar shallow steps, and you will suddenly find yourself in a square right in the heart of the center, where the main entrance of the Ducale Palace is hidden in plain sight. Start your visit here.

The palace is an impressive building, inside and out. Booking a guided tour is highly advisable. Not only does it teach you about the Montefeltro family, it will tell you more about the beautiful Renaissance paintings. One of them is La Muta by Raphael, who was born in Urbino.

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Storytelling is what really makes the history of this palace come to life. The guide might even get you to the top of one of the towers, so you can overlook the city. Walking through the palace, looking at the original tiled floors, one can only imagine the famous painters, composers, kings, and queens that have roamed these rooms.

See the Grand Urbino Cathedral

Coming out of the palace, the first thing you’ll see on the square is the cathedral of Urbino. Not only because it is a large building, but because its white Neoclassical facade contrasts beautifully with the sandstone bricks of the buildings surrounding it.

The cathedral was rebuilt in the 15th century. The only remnant of the previous Renaissance building is the chapel. Nothing is left of the original building from the 11th century. Have a look inside to admire the grand central nave with an aisle on each side. It also has a rich art collection, with a beautiful painting by Unterberger right by the altar.

IMG 5919 rotatedDrop by Raphael’s House

The famous painter and architect Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino was born in – yes – Urbino. Known in most of the world as Raphael, this Italian artist had a short but very productive life, with a large number of famous works. His career started right here in Urbino.

Visit his house in Via Rafaello and see where he was born and made his first drawings, before moving to Florence and Rome at a later age. The house is deceptively bigger than it looks from outside.

In the house you can see the room in which Raphael was born, the workshop and some works by himself and his father Giovanni Santi, who taught Raphael to paint.

Get the best views of the Urbino

Follow Via Rafaello all the way up the hill, until you see the big statue of Raphael at the end of the street.

If you turn left, you’ll see a church called Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata. You can just walk into this beautiful building, which houses a replica of Raphael’s tomb at the Pantheon in Rome.

Exit the church to the left and keep walking until you reach the Albornoz Fortress. This raised plateau is home to a green park from which you get a stunning view of the walled city. You’d be surprised how far away you seem to be from the city, even though you’ve only walked for ten minutes.

Leave the park the same way you got in and follow a narrow street called Via Santa Margherita down. Before you know it, you’ll be back in the main square, not far from Raphael’s house.

Explore the city and shops

Urbino is one of those small cities that are a pleasure to walk though. Everything can be done on foot, bearing in mind it is built on a hill, so don’t expect many flat streets. A few squares are connected by exciting alleyways that just beg to be explored. You practically can’t get lost either, as it’s not big enough , and you’ll always find a main street or square.

The shops are mainly boutique shops, which makes shopping fun and authentic. Buy some local wine, cheese and cured meat, shop for hand-dyed Renaissance-blue scarves using woad, or look for quirky gifts to bring back home.

Truffles in Urbino, Italy.
Truffles in Urbino, Italy.

Feast on Truffles

Urbino is not far from Acqualagna, a town in the north of the Marche region, which is well-known for its high-quality white truffles. It’s no surprise that many dishes in Urbino’s restaurants feature black or white truffles. They are extra tasty when they’re in season, which is from September until December for white truffles. December until March is best for black truffles.

Try tagliolini with white truffles, risotto with truffles, or a very delicious local specialty called passatelli al tartufo bianco. Passatelli is a kind of pasta made from bread flour, eggs, salt and parmesan cheese. It’s cooked in a chicken broth and served with slivers of white truffle on top. Urbino is the place to try this dish. It’s absolutely delicious!

Urbino
Urbino

The Best Places to Eat Truffles in Urbino Are:

L’Angolo Divino – A lovely, cozy, traditional osteria with an excellent Italian menu by Tiziano Rossetti, who is now one of my favourite chefs, after trying his food.

Tartufi Antiche Bontà – Just outside the city walls is this little gem of a restaurant. The cheese and charcuterie boards are outstanding, as is the toast with truffle sauce.

Ristorante Antica Osteria Da La Stella – This popular restaurant is right in the city centre, in Via Raffaello. Their standard menu is great, but the truffle menu (when in season) is a whole new level.

Where to stay

You can probably see most of Urbino in one day, if you’re a quick traveler. I think two days is the sweet spot. If you take the extra time to stay in this delightful city and discover its treasures at your own pace, it will make your experience much more profound.

The best hotels to stay in Urbino:

Albergo Italia – The oldest hotel in Urbino, right in the city centre, between the Ducal Palace and the Alborn Fortress. Rooms are clean and comfortable.

Palazzo Giusti – One of the newest hotels in Urbino city center. If you’re after a luxury experience, look no further. Deluxe suites and excellent spa facilities guarantee a relaxed stay.

Hotel Raffaello – Named after the famous Renaissance painter, this hotel is in the heart of the city, surrounded by small alleyways. Stay here to feel like you’re in the middle of it all. The rooms are comfortable and stylish.

A visit to Urbino is a must for people who want to experience a very authentic region of Italy. This historic, romantic city . is fairly unexplored. This is Italy like you haven’t experienced it before.

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