How to organize a trip to Pridnestrovie,Transnistria

By Daria Jucovscaia

Moldova is a country of great wine, delicious cuisine, stunning views, and unexplored routes. To shake things up you can go to the north of Moldova, where the two small villages of Rashkov and Strojency are situated.

If you have visited all the sights in Chisinau and enjoyed everything that local wineries offer, and you still have some time, a visit to Transnistria or Pridnestrovie is a nice side trip.

Why do the locals call it Pridnestrovie instead of Transnistria? In World War II this region was forcibly called Transnistria, and locals are trying to change that negative perception. Pridnestrovie is an autonomous region, actually, a country inside a country, unmarked on the map.

Local Legends

The north part of Pridnestrovie is a mixture of local legends and picturesque views. A visit to Rybnitsa, Strojency, and Rashkov in the north of Pridnestrovie will give you a taste of the simple life in an Eastern Europe village.

Transport to Rybnitsa

To reach Rybnitsa using public transport from Chisinau, take the North Station: it’s the only station from which you can reach all of the ‘north’ destinations. It will cost you around ($3.5 USD). A little warning: your ticket will say ‘Rabnita.’ Don’t panic! That’s the town’s name in the Moldovan language. You can also go there by taxi ($25-30 USD).

The journey will take around two hours, you will need to cross the border. Remember I told you it’s a country inside a country? Don’t forget to bring your international passport with you. I know all of this border stuff sounds rigid but it’s more of a formality.

Tip: one more very important thing to add on your checklist before going to any part of Pridnestrovie. You need to convert any currency you have with you into Pridnestrovian roubles. In Pridnestrovie only at the stations, you can buy tickets in Moldovan lei; other than that it’s better to have local cash. It is possible to exchange money in Chisinau or in Pridnestrovie. And in Rybnitsa there are a lot of banks situated next to each other.

Welcome to Rybnitsa!

Rybnitsa is a small Pridnestrovian town, which all the citizens proudly call the Northern Capital of an unknown country.

Before visiting Rashkow and Strojency, stop in Rybnitsa for some logistical reasons. The first reason is to have a great lunch before leaving for heading on.

It’s not that easy to find a good place to have a meal in Pridnestrovian villages, but there are some in Rybnitsa.

Two of my favorite restaurants are in Rybnitsa. If you want Moldovan or Ukrainian cuisine, then you’d better choose La Tocana, which actually represents the same franchise as La Placinte in Moldova. (Hint: this franchise is worth visiting in Chisinau, too.) Lucky for you, there is an English menu in La Tocana.

Panorama Restaurant

Another place worth considering is a cafe-restaurant Panorama.  It is situated outside of town, where you can only go by taxi. In Panorama you can enjoy meals from traditional European kitchens as well as some local specialties. Panorama attracts locals and tourists because of its beautiful panoramic view from the observation deck.

Rybnitsa, a town of about 50,000 residents,  is divided into two parts: the downtown, with the river flowing along it, and the upper town. Two churches, Catholic and Orthodox, are close to each other, like a lighthouse and a symbolic center. Beyond the churches are a lot of smaller buildings and the pipes of the factory on the other end of a town.

Walking through Rybnitsa you can find rather peculiar modern buildings and restaurants that are situated next to the Soviet ones.

Rybnitsa Sightseeing

The City center consists of Square of the Victory with a Lenin monument (another Soviet legacy). Right behind the square, the town park is located. (La Tocana, the restaurant I mentioned before, is on the left of the Square).

Walking on the river bank you will see the bridge that connects Pridnestrovian and Moldovan towns. And yes, it is Moldova on the opposite side of the river.

Your Rybnitsa meal+walk will take you around 2-3 hours. Now you are ready to move on.

I highly recommend visiting both Rashkow and Strojency in one day, because they are two historically very different villages.

Basics of Strojency

Strojency was founded as a frontier area at the beginning of the 18th century. It flourished in the 19th century when the village was the property of a wealthy general of the Russian Empire named Piotr Wittgenstein.

Thanks to his family, Strojency remains an interesting village for tourists. There are different sights such as the Tower of the Winds, the Old Mill, an observation pavilion, vineyard terrace, 10 water sources combined in one, and a lot of incredible views.

Exploring Rashkov

Compared with Strojency,  Rashkov reached its peak in the 16-17th centuries, when the territory was situated in a completely different country. Originally Rashkov was the frontier border of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.

Tip: make sure you are ready for a long walk and climbing hills. Both Strojency and Rashkov are hilly areas, so wear your comfiest shoes.

My advice is to visit both Strojency and Rashkov with a guide because it can be a bit complicated to find English speakers in Rybnitsa and close to impossible to find them in small villages.

Tip: if you have a Russian speaking friend, invite them to share this trip with you. It will make everything a lot easier.

Three ways to visit:

My first recommendation is to get in touch with the travel agency Hoshutuda. (It is easy to find on Instagram @hoshutuda). They can suggest some interesting itineraries.

First, there is a two day trip to Strojency and Rashkow with a stay over in a house in Strojency, the food and transport are included. The price is around 45 USD.

The second option is to join a one-day trip to Strojency and Rashkov. The route depends on the number of people and timetable. But this option should be wisely considered because it probably won’t suit for non-Russian speakers. (I hear they are currently looking for an English speaking guide). The cost of this excursion is around 22 USD.

The third option is to have a personal excursion, which is also possible with this team. For details, it’s better to contact Hoshutuda (By the way, the title means ‘I want to go there’).

My experience with Hoshutuda

I traveled with Hoshutuda to Strojency and it was a lovely tour, my first one to that village. We have visited all the main attractions that I have listed above. The guide tells a lot of curious stories and local legends. The tour guide gave participants time to take photos, to take a rest, etc. I am definitely going to explore some new routes with them this season.

Option #2 Kayaking and Camping in Pridnestrovie 

Would you be interested in kayaking on the Dnestr river? Contact Tiraspol non-governmental organization Putnik. They will provide you with all the necessary plans, and professional coaches will accompany you through the whole two-day trip, which usually includes visiting Strojency and Rashkov.

But check their information, as there will be some updates before the new season. The contact number is +373 777 16859 or +373 686 16859 (Yeah, sometimes in Pridnestrovie it is preferred to rely on a good old technique.)

Option #3 Exploring Strojency and Rashkov on your own

To go to Strojency from Rybnitsa station it will cost around 1.5 USD and something like 12 USD if by taxi.

If you reach Strojency or Rashkov and suddenly decide that you need to stay there for additional days, then you can find a stay-over and a lovely restaurant in a small and comfy hotel Dubrava. Dubrava complex is situated in a small village (every village in Pridnestrovie is small) called Belochi, it is 15 km far from Rybnitsa and in 5 km from Strojency.

The complex itself is rather new and developing really fast (this autumn it was only a restaurant, now it’s a hotel, too.) The menu offers European and national cuisine, you can also try a barbecue here, which probably tastes a bit different than what you are used to. Check their Instagram account @dubrava.md for more details.

By the way, take some time and walk through Belochi, wandering in the woods and enjoying the landscape.

Tip: when planning a trip on your own, checking the site of Pridnestrovian stations may come in handy www.avpmr.com. Unfortunately, it’s available only in Russian.

Lastly, late spring, summer, and early autumn are the best times to visit both Moldova and Pridnestrovie, then you can see all the colors of a small country and taste all the goodies it can offer to a tourist.

Summing up, if you want to see a unique way of life, come to Moldova and Pridnestrovie. Traveling is about widening the horizons and exploring new ways of life, right?

Daria Jucovscaiagot her Bachelor’s Degree in Russian literature in Russia and is now studying in Poland. She enjoys returning to Pridnestrovie, her home region.