The Hidden Gastronomy of Tangier

By Tyla Fergusson-Platt

Tangier food offerings are distinctive. The Moroccan settlement sits on the Northern tip of the country.

Due to its location, it has a wide mix of cultural influences from Arabic, Spanish, French, and even Jewish. This has resulted in a unique gastronomical offering for visitors.

Everybody knows Morocco for their Tagines and Couscous, but the White City has so much more to offer.

From their street food Kalinti (a savory egg pie made with chickpea flour), Pastillas (meat or fish pastry), or Msemen (Moroccan pancake) served with freshly made goat cheese and honey, there is ample cuisine to discover.

In terms of food, Tangier is most famous for its fresh fish.

Its unique geographical location means it has access to both the Mediterranean and Atlantic oceans, resulting in an eclectic range of seafood. A trip to the rustic indoor fish market is a must for any visitors to Tangier.

Exotic specimens like Scorpion fish, Shark, Turbot, and Octopus are all on display, freshly caught that day. Fresh Sardines are a little bit of a delicacy here, and this is where I start for my first gastronomical secret of Tangier.

Fresh Sardine, Maakouda and Harissa Sandwich

Sometimes when you’re traveling you have to take a stab in the dark with places to eat. In my experience the less a restaurant tries to thrill and cater to tourists, the tastier the food. This is never truer than in Morocco.  As my Moroccan friend Maria explains when eating at local eateries:

“Always see if the place is busy with locals. It’s usually a good sign that the food is fresh and not stale.”

It was through this trial-and-error approach that I stumbled upon a local man, Ahmed, who is notorious for his specialty Maakouda and Sardines. Unfortunately, Ahmed didn’t speak much English, but two local Tangerwaans explained what went into this delicacy.

The Sardines are fried in a generous amount of oil, little else is needed as the fish has been caught the same day. It is placed in a traditional Moroccan loaf (Pan) or a baguette. Maakouda, a famous Moroccan-style deep-fried potato, is placed on top. A combination of potato, parsley, cumin, turmeric, and garlic are the main ingredients.

Locals have a special fondness for this place. They lovingly refer to the owner as Uncle Amo and assure me that it’s the best restaurant to go for Maakouda. It costs just 15 dirhams and is a hearty lunch that will last you long to dinnertime.

Directions: The Maakouda hotspot unfortunately has no name (I asked and was met with bemused laughter). To find it you have to make your way downhill from Café Central. Take an immediate left when you hit a dead-end (a viewing platform should be ahead of you).

Look for a small shop with a glass counter and bar stools inside. The Maakouda will be displayed within the glass counter.

Kalinti: Street Food

In Tangier, you must try the Kalinti street food. It is said that the Jewish community that settled in Morocco introduced this (now) Moroccan staple to its shores.

Elements of the Jewish settlement in Tangier can still be seen particularly in the kasbah. The doors of Jewish households in the city are painted sea blue, usually with the star of David.

A Moroccan tour guide I met explained to me how diverse and open Tangier is. If you look out from the very top of the Kasbah, you can see mosques, churches, and synagogues side by side living in harmony with each other. It is a visual expression of the famous Moroccan attitude of tolerance.

Kalinti is a savory egg and chickpea pie that (like most Moroccan meals) is served with bread. It is Morocco’s answer to cheap, fast food. It is usually sprinkled with cumin and chili powder, and sometimes even ketchup.

Moroccans go crazy for it, and there is often a constant crowd of people waiting to be served.

Surprisingly the quality varies wildly between each street vendor, and you may have to try a few to find the best one. The rich history of the dish and the unique street food style means it’s a must-try during your stay in Tangier.

Directions: There are a few spots in the old medina where they are sold in the streets. One of the best places is up the hill from Café Central. At dusk, there is usually a large crowd of people congregating around the chef.

Pastillas – Meat or Fish Pastry

Spain is a close cultural influence on Morocco. In the 20^th Century Spain occupied the north of the country (it still occupies a tiny enclave on the coast), and because of this, elements of the culture survive today. Pastillas is a fishcake type of savory pastry (sometimes sweet), with the protein being either fish or meat.

One type (pictured below) wouldn’t look out of place in South-East Asia. It contains within it semolina thin noodles with a good degree of hot spices. The types of Pastilla that restaurants serve can vary substantially from place to place.

Maria, my Moroccan friend, claims the best pastillas are the ones that are cooked at home. She told me that her compatriots only use the best ingredients when home cooking, however, restaurants are more likely to skimp on quality.

The best place to experience this, short of a personal invitation, is through a family Airbnb, where home-cooked food will often be included.  Its exact origins are not fully known, but the general belief is that it originates from Andalusia. Similar recipes to the modern dish have been found in 13th-century cookbooks.

Directions: The place me and Maria ate the Pastillas was restaurant Macondo. It is located at 13 Rue Ben Abou which is right next to the Kasbah Museum in the old medina of Tangier. The rooftop of the restaurant is a must-see as it has a panoramic view of the rest of Tangier and the sea.

Msemen Honey + Goats Cheese Pancakes

A traditional form of pancake, Msemen is a Moroccan staple that any traveler needs to try. In Tangier, there is a twist. Fresh homemade Berber Goats Cheese is lovingly spread on top of them, with honey oozing on top.

The Goat Cheese is a hidden gem in the city. They are sold deep within the food markets in the old Medina. The Berber ladies, dressed in traditional clothing, sell the Cheese wrapped in palm leaves.

They are intricately woven around the prized gastronomical offering in exquisite detail.

It costs just 20 dirhams (less than £2), and the quantity will last you a good few servings. The Msemen and honey can both be bought at the same food market.

I have been told by locals that the pancakes should be warmed up before eating, to allow the goats cheese and honey to melt over them. The mix of sweet and savory works perfectly and is a hearty way to start the day. Msemen has long formed a part of Moroccan cuisine. The Berbers, the original inhabitants of the country, were the first to make this savory delight.

Directions: To find the Ladies who sell the goat’s cheese, go to the Grand Socco. Opposite Cinema Rif goes directly to the markets. They will be in the indoor market section sitting down on the floor.

Bissara Soup – A Local Favorite

This dish is a quintessential part of North Moroccan Gastronomy. Ask any Moroccan, they will tell you just how much they adore this humble soup. The name Bisarra is said to originate from Ancient Egypt and means loosely ‘cooked beans’.

The modern Moroccan dish is typically made with broad beans that are pureed into a fine soup. Recipes usually include Cumin, Olive oil, garlic, Paprika, and hot red pepper. Moroccans enjoy this dish, especially in the Winter months when the weather is cooler.

The best place to eat it must be Café Hafa. This famous café has been a historic hangout for artists for much of its existence.

It has been known to be frequented by a wide range of creatives from Pablo Picasso to Mick Jagger.

The iconic location of Café Hafa marks it out from the rest. It is positioned right on the cliff face, with seating that sprawls down below and has an unmatched scenic view of the Gibraltar strait.

Directions: At the Grand Socco take a right from Café Central (if you are facing the café). It is one long walk from there to Café Hafa, it should take around 25 minutes. If you get lost ask a local for directions, Moroccans are famed for their hospitality and may even walk the entire way to show you how to get there! (this has happened to me many times).

Harcha – A wonderful experience shared with locals

Harcha is a Moroccan specialty that comes in both savory and sweet varieties. It is best accompanied by a steaming hot mint tea as it can be quite dry.

If there is one aspect of Morocco that is better than its rich cuisine, it has to be the people. They are hands down the most friendly, hospitable people from my travels.

They also continue to surprise me to this day. The Western stereotype of the culture is far from reality. The women I met had a wonderful dark humor, that at first took me aback through shock, but enjoyed it immensely.

Tangier is truly an artist’s town. Everyone I met, men and women alike, had some artistic ability. I came to presume that people here either could play guitar, paint, or write because it was so common. It is like visiting New York or London where artists usually congregate, but Tangier is cozier, slower paced, and has a beach on its front door.

Well Read Locals in Tangier

Another aspect I noticed was how well-read and educated people are. Philosophy and literature are common knowledge in a way that I don’t see in the UK outside of London. This is one reason why traveling is so important; it breaks down the stereotypes that are engrained into you from a young age. Traveling has made me question other stereotypes of cultures that I may hold and gives me the energy to visit these places to see for myself.

Directions: The Harcha can be found next to the Alcaraz Cinema in a small independent bakery. Although Harcha can be found in most bakeries around Tangier, as always just ask locals for advice they more than likely will be very happy to help

Tyla Fergusson-Platt is a Freelance English Travel writer from Leamington Spa, whose passions in life include Buddhism, Martin Scorcese films, and Moroccan cuisine.