After a welcome meeting with Norma Caller, our local guide and a member of the Quechua community, we were ready to tour Cusco’s historic center. A walking tour of the city center provided an excellent introduction to Peru and its Inca history. Starting at the Plaza de Armas on a Sunday morning, the plaza buzzed with life, hosting a weekly military parade. The Gothic-Renaissance Cusco Cathedral and the 17th-century Baroque Church of the Society of Jesus testify to the city’s layered history. Cusco was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 due to its cultural significance as the historic capital of the Inca Empire and its remarkable fusion of Incan and colonial architecture.

We strolled down centuries-old narrow streets and climbed countless stone steps to open plazas with churches in the center. San Blas had great artisan shops, and we had fun visiting the San Pedro Market, which offered a glimpse into daily life in Cusco with its local crafts, produce, and traditional food.

San Pedro Market

The Church of Santo Domingo, built by Spanish conquistadors, stands on the site of the Inca temple Qorikancha. Once covered in gold, it was one of the most important temples in the Inca Empire, dedicated to the Sun God Inti. The Spanish captured the Inca Emperor Atahualpa and held him for ransom. Despite receiving a room filled with gold as ransom, they ultimately executed Atahualpa, marking a significant moment in the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire.

Our day culminated with a Pisco Sour tasting at Intrepid’s brand-new Cusco hub. The cocktail originated in Lima and is made with the Peruvian spirit pisco, lime juice, simple syrup, egg whites, and a dash of Angostura bitters. It was a great way to start our adventure in Peru.

 Into the Sacred Valley: Encounters with Tradition

We drove from bustling Cusco through the rugged terrain of the Sacred Valley towards Ollantaytambo. The landscape transformed into a panorama of towering Andean peaks as we ascended. The town exuded a laid-back charm, bustling with backpackers and adventurers preparing for their journeys.

This gateway to Machu Picchu and the legendary four-day Inca trail bore witness to pivotal events, notably the 1537 battle where Inca leader Manco Inca Yupanqui confronted Spanish conquistadors. Despite fierce resistance, the Inca eventually yielded, marking a turning point in their struggle against colonization.

 A Day with the Huilloc Alto Weavers: Celebrating Tradition and Community

Next, we traveled to Huilloc Alto, home to the Quechua-speaking women of the highland community. The Quechua culture dates back thousands of years, and the Quechua people are descendants of the ancient Inca civilization. The journey up the rugged Andean terrain, with its hairpin turns overlooking sheer drops without any guardrails, was worth every moment in return for the profound encounters with the resilient women weavers.

Through Awamaki, a non-profit organization dedicated to empowering rural Andean women through economic opportunities in traditional textiles, we met 16 women known as “the mamas.” They warmly welcomed us with flower necklaces, clay cups of mint tea, and smiles.

The community’s traditional dress expresses cultural heritage.

The mamas don brightly colored, decorated wool full skirts. They weave their garments and pair them with intricately embellished vests and jackets. Their distinctive red woolen bowl-shaped hats are embroidered and adorned with beaded chin straps. The garments are a testament to their artistry, woven meticulously on backstrap looms, each with unique designs that include pumas, llamas, condors, and silhouettes of mountain peaks.

The Huilloc Alto Weavers Craft  Intricate Textiles.

The Textiles are crafted using traditional methods passed down through generations. We watched these artisans spin the wool and dye it with natural materials such as cochineal, indigo, walnut shells, and moss. This technique holds historical significance in Peru, dating back over 5,000 years, and remains vital to the cultural identity of Andean communities. With the assistance of a Quechua interpreter, the women shared stories of their heritage, emphasizing the importance of preserving these techniques in a rapidly changing world.

Traditional Pachamanca Feast

 This celebration featured food prepared in earthen pits lined with hot volcanic rocks. It included various potatoes, vegetables, broad beans, plantains, and chicken, a rare addition reserved for special occasions. The food was covered by hot stones and native grasses and cooked for around two hours. The mamas joined us at the table, and the meal’s warmth mirrored the community spirit, creating an unforgettable experience.

After lunch, the mamas sat in a semi-circle and displayed their weavings for sale. Selling their work to visitors supports their families. Among the wares were scarves, hats, table coverings, and more.

Surprisingly, the night before, I learned that my grandson was arriving earlier than expected. Best laid plans, you know… As I browsed the handmade items, I reached the last mama, who held up a tiny baby bonnet—a perfect gift for my new grandson. When the mamas heard the bonnet was for my grandson, born that morning, we celebrated together. With tears in my eyes, no words were needed in that moment of shared happiness.

Journey to Machu Picchu

The next day, thanks to a joint effort facilitated between Awamaki and the Intrepid Foundation, the 16 mamas joined us and Intrepid Travel on a journey to Machu Picchu. This visit allowed the women of the Huilloc Alto community to witness their ancestors’ Inca civilization legacy for the first time.

Due to the high cost of visiting this world-renowned Inca site, many Peruvians, especially those from rural Andean areas, have never seen it, despite Machu Picchu’s deep connection to their heritage. Only 5% of highlanders ever get the opportunity. Their ancestors built the 15th-century fortress, and they still speak the language of the Incan stonemasons. “My husband has been, but not me,” said Josefina Cruise, one of the mamas. “I want to see Machu Picchu with my own eyes.”

The mamas arrived at our hotel early in the morning, their eyes alight with excitement. Clutching their blue ID cards and train tickets, we walked together to the train station, eagerly anticipating our adventure.

Journey to Machu Picchu on Inca Rail

One of the most memorable ways to reach Machu Picchu is via the Inca Rail,  which departs from Ollantaytambo. The rail journey offers spectacular views of the Sacred Valley’s countryside, making it a singular ride that sets the tone for the adventure ahead. Norma is a Quechua speaker with over two decades of leading tours on the Inca Trail. She expressed her joy at the opportunity for local women to visit Machu Picchu. “These ladies are incredibly fortunate to be here,” she said. The initiative came about four months prior and meant a lot to her.

We boarded our train car for the two-hour journey along the roaring Urubamba River to Machu Picchu Town (Aguas Calientes), the gateway to Machu Picchu. Walking through the train station, the women in their colorful traditional dress caught the curiosity of other tourists. Despite the attention, one of the highlights for the mamas was being tourists for a day, enjoying a buffet lunch and all-you-can-eat desserts before ascending the mountain.

 

Seeing Machu Picchu for the First Time

is a stunning experience. As you emerge from the lush greenery and ascend to the viewpoint, the ancient stone structures suddenly come into view, nestled amidst mist-shrouded mountains. The grandeur and intricate architecture of Machu Picchu against the backdrop of dramatic peaks evoke a sense of wonder and awe, transporting you to a mystical place frozen in time.

After an eventful day, the ladies had a long drive back to the village and a half-mile vertical climb up the valley to their homes. “It was the best day,” said Justina Riquelme Rios on behalf of the group. “We feel like true Incas.”

 From Machu Picchu to Lake Titicaca: Our Journey Continues

Leaving Ollantaytambo, we took an eight-hour coach ride to Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake. Along the way, we stopped at a local chicheri and shared a picnic lunch at one of the highest elevations in Peru. Arriving at sunset, we were warmly welcomed into the homes of the Llachon community for a one-night homestay. Renowned for its profound cultural heritage and traditional way of life, they maintain ancient customs, languages, and agricultural practices. Staying with a local family immersed us in their daily routine, deepening our understanding of the community’s profound connection to the land and Lake Titicaca.

The Llachon Community on Lake Titicaca

The following day, dressing in the community’s handmade clothing decorated with colorful designs was fun—the women layers in skirts and head coverings that were specific, whether you were married or single, and the men in wool woven ponchos. One of our community activities was digging potatoes; it was not easy to do in a heavy woolen dress at that altitude. We participated in a lively volleyball match. The locals won easily—we blame it on the altitude.

The Floating Uros Islands.

We spent the rest of the day on Lake Titicaca, home to the Uros islands, whose people have lived on floating reed islands for centuries. The reeds, growing abundantly in the lake, are used to build everything from homes to boats, showcasing their resourcefulness.

We visited a floating island home to five families. The island’s “chief” explained through a translator how they built, anchored, and even moved their island. He also described how they fish and hunt birds for food.

We traveled about an hour across the lake to Taquile Island, which predates Spanish colonization, and enjoyed a homemade lunch. Indigenous peoples inhabited it long before the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. The island’s inhabitants, the Taquileños, have preserved their traditional way of life and cultural practices, including their distinctive textile weaving techniques, which UNESCO has recognized as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

This trip was memorable because I saw Peru through the eyes of the Inca Indigenous communities. Intrepid Travel cut through typical tourism to reveal the true heart of traditional Peruvian life. Being in Machu Picchu with the Huilloc Alto mamas and watching their reactions,  I understood something magical was happening.

Intrepid Travel hosted Travel Writer Sharon Kurtz for an abbreviated version of the Classic Peru Tour itinerary. As always, all opinions are her own.