Lake Bohinj in Triglav Nat'l Park. Sharon Kurtz photo

Slovenia: Forests, Vineyards, and Medieval Villages

Slovenia: Exploring this diverse small nation that offers travelers so much history, adventure and great cuisine in a tiny area.

When people think of Slovenia, they often imagine a quick stop at Lake Bled, a stroll through Ljubljana, and maybe a visit to Postojna Cave before moving on. But Slovenia is so much more. With 60% of the country covered in lush forests, a commitment to sustainability, and medieval villages tucked among stunning mountains and lakes, it’s a treasure trove waiting to be discovered.

You could squeeze in the highlights on a side trip from Italy, Austria, or Croatia. Still, Slovenia’s scenic beauty is worth a more extended stay. There are lakes, caves, mountains, seaside towns, and ski resorts to explore year-round. Trust me, Slovenia is more than just Lake Bled—and deserves more than a fleeting visit.

I was once one of those travelers who only saw Slovenia briefly on a group tour. This time, I wanted to dive deeper and truly experience what this dynamic and diverse country in Central Europe has to offer.

From History to Modern-Day Slovenia

Slovenia is a compact gem between the Alps and the Adriatic, with green meadows, karstic rock formations, and a sliver of coastline. About the size of Massachusetts, it’s home to just over 2 million people and borders Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Croatia. The Julian Alps seamlessly blend into Austria’s Tirol, though Slovenia shouldn’t be confused with Slovakia, Austria’s larger eastern neighbor.

Historically, Slovenia has seen varied chapters—from the Habsburg Empire days to being part of Yugoslavia and declaring peaceful independence in 1991. Today, it thrives as a safe, clean, and welcoming democracy, blending its past with a modern outlook.

Blaž Kavčič, a Slovene and the founder of Activity Breaks Active Holidays, shared his thoughts on the country’s unique position in the tourism landscape: “One of our biggest challenges is presenting Slovenia as a destination. It’s still fairly unknown, and some still perceive it as a dangerous Eastern European country despite being further west than Austria. It’s a matter of perception and getting the word out.”

Kavčič emphasizes the nation’s natural assets: “Nature is our strength. The focus now is to offer small groups great value and experiences. We are too small for mass tourism.” He predicts, “It will become better known and easier to recommend through word of mouth in the next few years.”

Exploring Lake Bled: Views, Treats, and Trails

We started our Slovenian adventure in Lake Bled, just a 30–40-minute drive from the airport. For a good reason, Lake Bled is Slovenia’s top tourist spot and is breathtaking. There, we savored coffee and indulged in a delightful slice of Bled Cream Cake—a local specialty as heavenly as it sounds.

Our first hike took us up Osojnica Hill, known for its steep climb and stunning views. The forested trail led us to a panoramic viewpoint where we gazed out over glacier-fed Lake Bled, its island with the Church of the Assumption, and the snow-topped Julian Alps surrounding it. It was a magical moment, immersed in Slovenia’s natural beauty, away from the tourist buzz below.

Lake Bohinj and Triglav National Park

We zipped from one stunning spot to another in Slovenia, and everything was so close. After a hearty lunch of sausages and beer, we found ourselves at Lake Bohinj, just 12 miles southwest of Lake Bled, in Triglav National Park’s Julian Alps. The only national park in Slovenia covers nearly 4% of the country.

Mount Triglav, standing at 9,396 feet, is more than just the highest peak in Slovenia; it’s a national symbol. It is depicted on the national flag and coat of arms, representing the spirit and identity of the Slovenian people. For Slovenians, climbing Mount Triglav is considered a rite of passage. The saying goes, “You are not a true Slovene until you have climbed Triglav.”

Rain dampened our plans to hike to Savica Waterfall, but Lake Bohinj’s tranquility made up for it. Renowned for its crystal-clear waters, it is fed by mountain streams and the Savica River. The lake’s clarity is due to its glacial origin and the purity of the surrounding environment.

Ribčev Laz is a charming eastern shore village with cozy restaurants and cafes. The 13th-century Church of St. John the Baptist near the lake’s shore is famous for its well-preserved frescoes and picturesque views, adding a touch of historical charm.

It’s a serene spot for water sports, hiking, fishing, and soaking in Slovenia’s natural beauty. Without Bled’s crowds, it was the perfect retreat for nature lovers.

Preserving Heritage – The Story of Lipica Stud Farm and the Lipizzaner Stallions

I saw a centuries-old tradition come to life at the historic Lipica Stud Farm in Slovenia’s Karst region. Established in 1580 by Habsburg Archduke Charles II, this farm is the birthplace of the renowned Lipizzaner horses, known for their strength, agility, and iconic white coats. Lipica Stud Farm is not just a place but a national monument, with elegant stables, a museum, and a chapel celebrating its cultural significance.

My favorite part was watching the horses released from the stables in the morning. First came the powerful stallions, followed by the mares guiding their playful foals. Seeing the foals up close was fascinating, knowing their dark coats would gradually turn white by age seven. Being so close to these magnificent animals was unforgettable—they embody Slovenia’s rich equestrian heritage.

Staying at Hotel Maestoso, named after one of the classical lines of Lipizzan stallions within the stud farm, added to the experience with its equestrian-themed decor and balconies overlooking the serene surroundings. We used the property as a home base to explore the Karst region’s limestone formations and landscapes.

A Historical Enclave with Roman Roots

Štanjel is a charming medieval village perched on a hilltop with stunning views. Located on the Karst plateau overlooking the Vipava Valley in the 17th century, it was fortified to defend it against Ottoman raids. The hilltop was also once an encampment for Roman soldiers; stone remnants still watch over the surrounding valley. Wandering its narrow streets, I felt history all around. The Štanjel Castle was built in the Middle Ages. It was heavily damaged during World War II, and it has been slowly rebuilt ever since. Our guide, Petra, shared that the village has only 19 permanent residents. Yet, it hosts music festivals and art events throughout the year.

I loved the traditional stone houses with wooden balconies and terracotta roofs. The living museum, with its original furnishings and historic well, gave a glimpse into past village life. The Church of St. Daniel, approximately 500 years old, commands attention with its graceful bell tower, a landmark in the area.

We sampled Teran, the local wine whose deep ruby color reflects the region’s limestone terroir. I imagined how magical the hilltop outdoor wine terrace would be in the evening, wishing we could have shared a glass with the locals.

Exploring Goriška Brda: Slovenia’s Tuscany

Goriška Brda, in western Slovenia, really lives up to its nickname, “Slovenia’s Tuscany.” The rolling vineyards, hilltop villages, and Mediterranean climate were stunning. Our e-bike tour through rows of ripening grapes and over hilltops was unforgettable, including a stop to pick ripe red cherries off the trees while gazing at the red-tiled roof domačije in the distance. This region is famous for its local wine, Rebula, and other varietals. We cycled past vineyard terraces and orchards full of cherries, figs, and peaches, feeling like we were in a timeless pastoral paradise.

The village of Šmartno was incredibly charming, with its well-preserved medieval architecture and narrow streets. Perched on a hilltop offered panoramic views of the vineyards and olive groves. After the bike tour, we tasted olive oil in an original round-stone fortification tower. I’m sorry we missed the Cherry Festival in late June, celebrating the cherry harvest.
When I asked Tina Novak Samec, the general manager of Brda Tourism, what makes the region so unique, she replied with enthusiasm:
“We are a beautiful region with hills covered in vineyards, orchards, and olive groves. Although small, we have so much to offer—a little piece of heaven.”
Tina highlighted the region’s unique geography: “Here in the Brda region, you can see the Julian Alps and even the Mediterranean Sea.”
She also shared a fascinating anecdote about the area’s complex history: “After World War II, the region was divided 70% remained in Yugoslavia and 30% went to Italy. I always explain it like this: my great-grandparents were born in Austria, my grandfather and grandmother in Italy, my parents and I in Yugoslavia, and my children in Slovenia—yet we were all born in the same place.”

Discovering the Slovenian Adriatic Coast

Our journey along the Slovenian Adriatic Coast showcased a fascinating blend of maritime heritage, cultural traditions, and Mediterranean charm. Though only 29 miles long, it holds immense significance.

We started in Portorož, which means “Port of Roses.” Once a modest spa town, it’s now a luxurious resort. We stayed at the Kempinski Palace, a stunning old palace that was once a winter retreat for Austrian royalty. It’s been beautifully renovated, blending original charm with modern luxury, and even includes a casino.

Just a short drive away, we explored the Sečovlje Salt Pans, where salt has been produced using traditional techniques since the 13th century. It was fascinating to see this heritage preserved, and the nature park also provides a habitat for many bird species, some rare and endangered.

Next, we visited Piran, a charming town with narrow, winding streets, red-tiled roofs, and pastel houses. Its Venetian Gothic architecture, a legacy of centuries of Venetian rule, is stunning. The views from St. George’s Parish Church were breathtaking.

One of our favorite spots was Tartini Square, named after the famous violinist Giuseppe Tartini, who was born there. We spent a relaxed afternoon sitting on a bench with ice cream, enjoying the atmosphere, and watching the boats in the harbor.

Ljubljana: History, Charm, and Culinary Delights

Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, is a captivating blend of history, culture, and scenic beauty. Perched atop a hill, Ljubljana Castle offers panoramic views and a glimpse into the city’s past through its museum and tower.

Life pulses with energy in Preseren Square, designed by Slovenian architect Joze Plecnik. The square’s sculpture pays homage to Slovenia’s national poet, France Prešeren, symbolizing the nation’s literary and cultural heritage. Wander the colorful streets of Old Town, where cozy cafes and boutiques beckon. Don’t miss the iconic Dragon Bridge and the tranquil riverside promenade.

The stunning Ljubljana Cathedral’s remarkable architecture and views from the bell tower are must-see. Immerse yourself in local culture at the Central Market, sampling fresh produce and Slovenian delicacies. Our dinner at Most was a highlight, followed by indulging in Kavarna Cacao’s renowned ice cream along the Ljubljanica River—a perfect way to unwind in this enchanting city.

Slovenia offers thriving towns, stunning landscapes, and welcoming locals. Amid Europe’s over-tourism complaints, Slovenia feels untouched. While you might encounter traffic heading to Lake Bled on a sunny summer Saturday, most of the country remains untrampled and yours to explore.

Explore Slovenia beyond the highlights with lush forests, medieval villages, and stunning lakes. Discover gems like Lake Bohinj, Triglav Park, and Teran wine.

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