Inside Andros’s 5-million-year-old Cave

By Chiara Crisafulli

Aladino Village was already an interesting name in itself.

‘There must be a magic carpet and a princess too!’ I said to my friend who was driving me there.

Andros, one of the eight Northern Cycladic Islands, had already spoiled me with fig, caper, and pomegranate trees; when Mark dropped me off at the Old Bridge (1680 A.C.), I almost took them for granted.

Turtles in the River

What I didn’t expect, right below the bridge, were turtles swimming in the river or sunbathing on stones sparkling like jewels. To reach the cave’s entrance, from there I walked up a 300-meter cobblestone path running alongside traditional one-story stone-built houses.

Pampered by that lush view, only the swoosh of wind and the stream’s gurgling was interrupting the silence. Amazed, I stood taking pictures and wondered if my day could get any better.

How about a tour inside one of the most impressive caves of Greece?

During the previous five weeks, I had already visited some interesting caves near Zorkos Beach, on the northern side. I had attended a yoga and meditation retreat, hiked mountain paths, and dived or cliff-jumped into transparent waters.

But only when inside the Archeological Museum did I notice a leaflet saying ‘Cave Foros tour at Aladino Village.’ A sense of wonder about a not über-advertised spot fell immediately upon me — like a spell.

I rang for information about the tour and a kind lady annihilated all my doubts, using that simplistic Greek manner I adore: ‘Tomorrow you just come. We are open from 11 to 6, okhaaaay?’

What does Foros mean?

My guide, Ms. Froso (yes, that’s foros anagrammed), pointed her flashlight at a waterfall above our heads and asked me if I could use my imagination.

As soon as I forgot about where to put my feet (the floor was a bit slippery), a childlike wonder took me by the hand and did not leave for the following 20 minutes.

Stalactites shaped like mushrooms made me forget about my hand getting wet on the handrail— humidity at 120 meters underground reaches 75%.

We were still inside the first chamber, and a bat overlapped my guide’s voice while she was explaining that this site has been open for tours only since 2010. ‘These are some of the first caves explored in Greece, by the couple Ioannis and Anna Petroheilou in1937. The Hellenic Caving Association mapped the site in 1982.’

A Fairytale Dimension

Scattered, dim spotlights on minerals and limestone had already transported me to a fairytale dimension, abruptly interrupted by the sight of a rat skeleton.

‘This explains the second meaning of the name foros,’ said my guide, laughing at my surprise. ‘The first one comes from the Italian word foro (which means hole), while in the local Greek, foros means taxes: the superstitious believed that animals which disappeared in here would pay a form of taxes to the evils spirit!’

Certainly, that rat had paid his dues — and not too long ago.

Eight chambers of the Cave

There are eight chambers within about 200 square meters, and each one is named after the shapes that Mother Earth sculpted during these few million years. Only the last one (the secrets’ chamber) can’t be visited, for safety reasons.

My favorite was ‘the garden of stones,’ where Froso showed me some ‘baby’ stalagmites. Overall, she was fantastic in challenging my creative wit, like when we were passing by a tree trunk which I contextually observed as the base of a Greek column.

But that wasn’t all. Slender minerals and salt formations hanging from the ceiling reminded me of sea flora, and they were right above gour formations shaped as sea waves. On our way back to the exit, I even spotted a nativity scene!

The glittering island

Andros is an island which is ideal not only for hikers and divers but also for stones lovers: since the Geometric period (900-700 BC), slate and schist have been used to build houses. The Temple of Zagora, a few kilometers away from the caves, was one example of small temples of the Archaic period, which reflected the domestic architecture and was almost entirely built of schist.

Even today, these rocks composed of big minerals grains (visible with the naked eye) embellish the many beaches of the island.

An experience your kids will love

The next group waiting outside the entrance was a noisy Greek family with kids — ‘Always the most enthusiastic about my tours’ confirmed Froso Kaladami to me when I handed her back my helmet and flashlight, her dark eyes sparkling like this island’s hidden treasures.

WHEN TO GO:

From July 1 to September 15, tours run every day from 11 am to 8 pm (Wednesdays and Sundays 11 am to 3 pm).

From September 16 until June 30, tours run only by previous appointment (+306939696835).

Price: 5EUR

GETTING THERE:

Ferries from Rafina Port (Athens) to the Andros port town (Gavrion) run up to 3 times per day in high season and take 2 hours.

Aladino Village can be easily reached by bus (follow the path to the Two Faucets at Agia Triada Church and continue to the Old Bridge) or by car (follow the directions towards Chora Andros if coming by Gavrio and vice versa).

The Zagora archeological site is 7 km from the caves and reachable by one of the island’s well-defined hiking paths.

WHERE TO STAY

Lemon Tree in Batsi (+306974382637) offers views of the bay from its terrace at rates starting at 18 EUR (bed in a shared dorm) or 31 EUR (private room) with breakfast included. Prices vary according to the season.

Chiara Crisafulli is an Italian travel writer and poet currently based in Lisbon and working as a tour guide. She left Italy in 2010 to experience the world by living in new countries, backpacking, or volunteering. Since she was 18 years old, she has been traveling to Greece, and she is really proud of her deep Greek roots. She wrote her first poem when she was 8 years old, and is currently finalizing her first experimental poetry book.