Riding the Pandemic Wave in Puerto Escondido, Mexico
By Philip Finkelstein
I’d been living in Mexico for more than a month before the news about the spread of coronavirus began to turn dire.
Borders were closing down, trapping travelers in Europe and South America. Thousands were getting sick and dying across the globe due to overstrained healthcare infrastructures.
Return Home!
State-issued warnings advised anyone still overseas to return to their home countries immediately if able, or risk months of separation.
While the world seemingly collapsed around me, the quaint and laid-back oceanside city of Puerto Escondido in southern Mexico, where I happened to find myself, continued on its laissez-faire path of surf and sunshine.
Every day was gorgeous and hot, the beaches were pristine and even less crowded than usual, and life was cheap and fun. The prospect of returning to quarantine and self-imposed isolation was less than inviting, especially when juxtaposed with the backdrop of rolling waves breaking upon sandy shores and beach bar parties night after night.
Ongoing Freedom Vs Security
I was torn between the allure of ongoing freedom and the security of American resolve. Sure, at the time, America was in far graver turmoil, emerging as the epicenter of the global pandemic.
But an eerie sense of impending chaos in Mexico had me on my toes. I thought myself a sailor caught in the calm before the storm. The virus was undoubtedly coming, it was just a matter of when and how hard.
Returning to my home in Vermont was a daunting notion. The spread of the virus was exponentially growing by the day in neighboring New York. Ski mountains had closed down. Social distancing guidelines were in place.
I’d have to navigate airplanes and airports, risking not only my health but the health of my family to whom I’d be returning. Once there, I’d be bored and cold, though presumably somewhat more at ease.
Urging Me Home
Staying in Puerto Escondido had its obvious benefits, but it too was a notion plagued in peril. Friends and family in Vermont urged me to return home, concerned for my safety.
Mexico has a fraction of the ventilators and equipment necessary to address the projected number of patients that will require intensive care.
Diabetes, high blood pressure, and other health factors prevalent among Mexicans threaten to exacerbate medical demand. The economic and societal institutions are weaker, posing the question as to whether they will hold in a time of crisis.
But I was at the beach every day getting a tan and no one around me seemed to worry.
As incoming tourists dwindled, locals and ex-pats kept the routine of surfing, snorkeling, and beach beers at sunset alive, at least for a while.
I decided to stay until my original departure date in early April, if only to partake in said activities for a little while longer.
A Prettier Apocalypse
The apocalypse would be a lot prettier with an unobstructed view of the sun dipping below the Pacific horizon, I surmised. Others apparently agreed, as I even met two Seattleites who’d managed to skate travel restrictions to refuge in a beachside Airbnb.
Into March, things began to change. Socially-conscious hotels and restaurants started to close their doors. Makeshift hand-washing stations started popping up in front of the shops that remained open. Face masks and hand sanitizers sold out in pharmacies.
Nightly activities diminished and hangouts grew fewer and farther between. Nevertheless, many locals and ignorant tourists failed to grasp the gravity of the situation. Beach vendors continued to sell their wares and drinks; handshakes, hugs, and kisses were still the norm; and everyone was still partying, just in smaller circles.
Spreading Like Wildfire
It was clear to me that when the virus arrived, it would spread like a wildfire that even Puerto’s humidity would be unable to dampen.
Luckily, I had an apartment in a secure hotel that had stopped taking new reservations and a small established group of friends that I trusted would practice proper hygiene and social distancing.
The daily news didn’t help my nerves; each day was worse than the next. It was becoming very possible that my flights would be canceled. I’d be stuck in Mexico for who knows how long. Without access to adequate healthcare if I needed it. Pushing these thoughts aside, I sat on the beach and tried to relax.
Beaches Closed
The timing really couldn’t have worked out more perfectly for me. I can’t say the same for all the other travelers riding it out down in Mexico. On April 4th, Mexico officially closed every beach in the country for 30 days. I learned this the day prior from speaking with two police officers who’d come to the beach to politely inform beachgoers that it was the last day.
I watched as the two officers walked the whole coast telling everyone the news, all while shaking hands and posing for pictures with their assault rifles. It was just one more sign that Mexico didn’t understand what was about to come.
Though relieved that Mexico had taken the initiative to close the beaches and that I was scheduled for a flight back to the U.S. in two days, I couldn’t help but worry about those I’d come to know in Mexico and what would happen to my beloved Puerto in the coming months.
After a few hiccups with my flight to Mexico City, it was smooth sailing all the way back to Vermont through empty airports and even emptier airplanes. I’m writing this now in precautionary self-quarantine as I wait to see how the cataclysm in Mexico unfolds.
My fingers are crossed that it doesn’t get as bad in Mexico as it is here in the U.S. because they’re otherwise unprepared for the mounting wave about to come crashing down.
Philip Finkelstein is an avid writer and traveler with journalistic aspirations. He’s originally from Vermont and has a degree in political science from the University of British Columbia. Always exploring new places in search of his next story—follow Phil’s journey on Instagram @felipefinklez
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Hi I’ve been living here in PE for 8 years now. I’m retired US Navy 70 and high risk of Covid as I have leukemia cll so I hide out at my home mostly. I returned to Puerto last December and the beaches aren’t open as are most of the cafes. Stupidity keeps their schools closed. I like it here cause I don’t drive. Here everything you need is within walking distance if you live in town including the many beaches. The taxis are cheap only 40 pesos $2 US although I don’t take a taxi because of Covid. Fresh shrimp costs 200 pesos a kilo. Gas here is 20 percent more than the states. My maid works for the city and she says there isn’t much Covid. I read like 50 deaths all of last year for Puerto, Chila and Hualtulco combined. There is a $300 peso fine for no mask in public.
Well said, Decency! Apparently Sharon/Karen is still drinking the Kool Aid.
How is Puerto Escondido now in October … I heard from someone that was there a few weeks ago that everything was closed and there is no information on the internet that talks about how things really are there right now..
If anyone has any information please share (it would be terrible to travel there with beaches, bars and restaurants all being closed)
How is Puerto Escondido now?
I’ve been here since March and am very happy I am here. They have closed the main beach again but Carazalilo and manzanillo are open. I can go for a coffee, a meal, go to the market. There is none of the hysteria and drama that I’ve seen in other places. I was supposed to go back to the UK. Got to New York, got sick just looking at the BS. Three year old kids with masks and visors, rich joggers jogging with masks but then saw policemen in a car no mask, fire truck, two guys in there without a mask. I got so ill watching the madness and as in the meantime TAP airlines said I couldn’t board a flight without a test taken Within 72 Hours, which was not possible, I decided to save myself the mental anguish of watching the sheeple in Europe. Thankyou Mexico for having a live and let live mentality. Don’t forget Mexico has not wrecked its economy dishing out money, unlike the USA and the UK.
I have to say though, the world is old and never have we closed for one day. And we are closed for half a year!!!!!! BS and exaggeration is what this is to bring in the NWO.
I was stucked in Puerto Escondido – Zicatela beach for 104 days. I could write a similar story because I was stucked there because of the coronavirus. All my flights were canceled so I was stucked in the paradise. I was there from March until last week. All my flights were canceled . And canceled again. The beaches are closed. Most of the people is afraid of the virus but the athmosphere continues to be great, the waves of Zicatela are the same and the dogs are friendly because everybody knows that Puerto is a little piece of paradise.
Mexico is an overpopulated country… yet the number of cases is not that great considering its population!!
Prepared or not.. obviously Mexico is doing something right …..
Do you have any idea how puerto escondido is now as far as things being open or closed? I already had COVID so I’m personally not worried about traveling. I really want to spend a month there while I’m still working remotely.
Coronavirus is a hoax but your fear is laughable.
I don’t think the more than 50,000 Americans who are dead would agree with your opinion sir, this isn’t a hoax and that kind of thinking kills more people.
Things are fine in Puerto. Protocóles are followed.
I totally agree. The NWO have seen though that most people are sheep. The lack of reasoning is beyond me. It was such a joke to see people at airport with a mask, but somehow the virus knows you are just having a bite of your sandwich or a sip of your water so the BS virus doesn’t attack. I regard this as when the Nazis walked in and many thought it was good until it was too late and everyone woke up.
I agree George, I laughed a little at the writer’s arrogance. Mexico knows it can’t afford to pay everyone, meanwhile the USA continues to cripple its economy with the democrats who never want to open again but are still paying themselves a salary. This sanctimonious mentality gets on my nerves. But the writer is young so let him be.
Are you concern of Mexico being unprepared but how about US #1 country in the world with Coronavirus people infected, you are so funny.
It’s not either or… One can be concerned for Mexico while still being concerned and upset by what’s going on in the US. This is a ‘global’ issue, and as recent developments have unfolded, the concerns of the author were warranted as the unpreparedness has led to Latin America now being the epicenter of the pandemic, likely with Africa to follow in the coming months.
Ben, have you ever lived in Africa??? I can assure you the townships would have been the first place to get an outbreak. So many things to do with this Virus do not add up. What has worried me is seeing the bs coming out of the USA with FB etc not even allowing comments on Hunter Bidens meddling and corruption in a foreign government. We need to clean the swamp and that would start with the most dirty country in the world, the USA. I think by Trump saying he had Covid he was telling us that this is the NWO BS. Be careful we don’t give up our rights for something with a 99.9 recovery rate. Meanwhile people will soon realise they have other illnesses which have not been diagnosed thanks to the entire world concentrating on this BS.
Hey Sharon, you’re just a slimy lowdown no-good Covid denier, and you aren’t that bright either, are you? How many grandparents are you going to end up murdering in support of your “this virus is a hoax” BS? So it’s safe to go out without a mask is it? All these sleazy Americans who don’t want to be bothered to wear masks may paper it over with some facile selfish civil liberties political hogwash, but you know what? Really you’re just scum. You could’ve tried to protect other people. but you’re just scum. Hope you don’t enjoy any superspreader events because other people deserve to live.