Rappling- A Few of the 'Adventure' Stuff I Have Done

Rappling Down a Rock, Sankari, Har-Ki-Doon Base Camp 2004

I had clicked this picture for our camp leader (and who turned out to be a good friend too, he visited us more than once when he has been in Delhi) on the Har-Ki-Doon trip. I too tried this activity and came down the rock without too much of a sweat. Then my younger nephew tried it and he slipped, got up and then came down. Unfortunately there are no pictures of ours.

That reminds me, during this trek, I had a very nasty Yashika film camera that used to jam the film at will. And you guessed it right, when we started walking from Seema to Har-Ki-Doon, the most most beautiful day of the walk, that damn camera jammed. That is when our camp leader handed us his digital camera for the rest of the trek. I mean that was really large hearted of him and whenever I remember this trek, I do think of his gesture with a lot of fondness.

Bhulla Tal, Lansdowne Uttrakhand

Bhulla Tal, Lansdowne, Uttrakhand

This summer is the most unpromising in terms of travel (though it looks quite promising work wise, I am really trying hard not to complain, no really I am trying). So, on many days, I end up looking at the old pictures and drool.

When we actually visited the Bhulla Tal in Lansdowne we were not really impressed. The lake is small, and all those toy boats looked, umm, not my kind of a place (though let me add that this lake has actually been dug by army personnel and has not formed due to nature). My kind of a place is Prashar Lake or Pangong Lake.

But ask me now, any kind of lake will do as long as it has hills in the backdrop. And if it is at the high altitude all the more better! I know I have been cribbing a lot these days about the lack of travel but then in the last five years it has never happened. So, just one or two posts more and I will settle down but the question is to writing down what?

Hotel Hunting in Lansdowne

Mayur Lodge, Lansdowne (The Building with the Flags)

It feels like ages since we visited Lansdowne and not just the last month. The best part was that we had as usual showed up without a hotel booking in town. The good folks at Indiamike had warned me that there are just three to four hotels in Lansdowne and at times one can't find even a single room vacant.

From our research at Indiamike we knew that the Fairydale was supposed to be the best place in Lansdowne. We asked for directions and started walking that way. On the way we also saw the GMVN accommodations. On reaching the Fairydale property we found that it was completely booked. We decided to try our luck at the next best place, the GMVN. The caretaker at the GMVN told us that the same group that was staying at Fairydale had taken the rooms at GMVN too and it was booked solid. So we were left with no options but try our luck at the Mayur Lodge that was suggested as the last option at Indiamike. Of course, we got a room there and they too charged us Rs. 500 for the room, knowing that everything else was booked. Apart from these two, a new one has come up by the name of Blue Pine but it is 3-4 kilometers away from the main city and we did not want to walk that much with the Avomine still taking its toll on us. At Indiamike people also say another resort is coming up 3-4 kilometers away in the other direction, but we came to know about this only after coming back.

Did we learn our lesson from this and pre-book our next trip? You bet not! But the problem is that I really can't see a next trip (I know this happens so rarely). And how I need it!

The Lover's Lane Saga- Lansdowne

Fast Asleep- Lover's Lane Lansdowne

Sesha and I reached Lansdowne on Saturday morning and after dumping our luggage in Mayur Lodge (shabby place, hotel hunting is another tale to share about this trip) we as usual started walking around the town. We reached a small shade where a young girl (college going) was standing alone admiring the view. She started chatting with us, asking where were we from etc. After a while we decided to walk ahead, saw the sign the lover's lane and decided to explore it. After walking for about five minutes Sesha decided that he was still quite zonked on Avomine, found a sunny patch and decided to catch up on sleep (the picture above is the proof). I too was zonked but not as bad as him and I told him I am walking in the lane. He asked me to come back in around half an hour.

I walked ahead and found the view quite soothing. Walking on narrow twisting kaccha rasta (mud path) with just my thoughts for company is always a refreshing change from trying to cram 100 things in a day in my city life. OK, it may not be 100 things in a day actually but at times it feels just like that.

Soon enough I found the young girl whom I met near the shade with a young guy walking from the opposite side. She refused to catch my eye this time and I must say they made a cute pair. I continued on my walk and returned after an hour or so to find Sesha still peacefully sleeping at the same spot.

Looked Like A Doll's House- Lansdowne

This small house was quite near the city center (which is pretty run down) in Lansdowne. Nearby was a tea shop (you got it right, we had our evening tea there) and next to it some benches from where one could see the sun set. I liked the bright color of the roof and the way this house resembled a doll's house! I wonder if anyone lived there?

That Morning Cup of Tea!

Welcome to Lansdowne, Bus Stop .5 Km away, that is what the board in Hindi

We visited Lansdowne, a small hill station in Uttrakhand around February 10. The nearest railway station to Lansdowne is Kotdwar. Mussoorie Express is the train we took from Old Delhi Railway Station. And this time for a change instead of hiring a taxi to the Old Delhi Railway Station we hired one just up to Dwarka Metro Station. From there we took the metro to the Old Delhi Railway Station. This was our first metro ride in Delhi and I must say 'please mind the gap' was a constant here too. I liked the metro ride for the simple reason that it goes in a straight line, rather than a taxi that has to break, honk and swerve through the traffic.

For a change, we were traveling in AC III (Sesha loves the sleeper class) and the train deposited us at Kotdwar right in the morning, when it was not even daybreak. In fact, the Kotdwar station is so small that for a few minutes we did not know the train has actually stopped at the platform.

And then we got down, zonked and sleepy because we took the Avomine before, thinking it may wear off soon if we took it the night before instead of taking it just before the jeep ride from Kotdwar to Lansdowne. And I anyway wakeup like a fish out of water in the morning.

And that is when that morning cup of tea is all that you can think of. We headed out of the station looking for the tea and were immediately surrounded by shared taxi drivers heading to Lansdowne. We promised one of them that we were coming back after a cup of tea. Ten meters outside the station, there was the chaiwala and we headed straight to his thela. Then the ritual started. There were three other people waiting for their morning cup of tea. The chaiwala poured already hot water in the pan. Then came his own masala (and I believe it is this that makes every corner tea shop different from the other) that would go into the tea. A little milk and tea leaves and the magic drink was ready. As I started sipping it, the day also started breaking over. As I finished the tea, I had started feeling almost human once again. And soon enough we were inside the taxi, heading to Lansdowne.

Pictures from Lansdowne

St. Mary's Church, Lansdowne

Well, this one is going to be a delayed travelogue. I have not been able to put even captions on the pictures. But have a look at the Lansdowne pictures anyway. I was not lucky enough to see the snow capped peaks. Still, a break is a break but it is difficult to believe that I was away from this hectic pace.

Back from Lansdowne

Lover's Lane- Lansdowne (No I have no clue why it is called Lover's Lane)

We took a short, Avomine filled break to Lansdowne. Ideally we would have liked to spend a few days more, but when given a choice between a hectic short break and not taking a break at all we would choose a short hectic one every time. I will have to say I have been to more scenic places but then a break is a break and it was wonderful.

Lazy Sunday Photo- Stairway to Heaven

Swargrohini- Har Ki Doon

This mountain range in Uttranchal 9saw it on our Har-Ki-Doon trek) is called Swargrohini, or Stairway to Heaven. What an apt name.

Can You Spot IIT Roorkee in the Picture Below?

Maybe you will have to enlarge the image to see IIT Roorkee in this picture but what a shame, the way we deface the public buildings. This was a small hut on top of the China Peak at Nainital.

A Trip to Nainital and the Stay at Shervani Hilltop Resort

Some trips are fated. That is how I view my recent trip to Nainital with my younger nephew Sunil. I almost could not believe it, when the good folks from the Shervani Hilltop Resort (they own Rodeo too) wrote to me about a possibility of my staying with them as their guest and in return, I had to blog for them! Can you imagine such a good deal? I anyway blog about all my travels! But at that point, I remember thinking, “Now this sounds good but let us see if anything comes out of it actually.” After all, there are so many blog leads that turn out to be nothing in the end. However, this turned out to be one fine trip and a break I desperately needed. They also offered that I could bring a guest as I may not feel safe alone. Sadly, that is true, I do not venture out alone in India. As Sesha had already planned to go to Bangalore, finally Sunil and I went together.

Reaching Naintal

I am so used to traveling by bus that it felt a bit strange to be going by taxi this time. Our journey was smooth and the driver (I somehow never asked his name) a very decent one. We started around 5am in the morning and after a while both Sunil and I feel asleep. I woke only when we were nearing Moradabad and requested that we may stop for breakfast somewhere. Soon after, the three of us had breakfast and then started again. The road was in a bad shape (they always are after the rain) and whenever we neared a town, they were chock-o-full too. However, when Nainital was 30 km away, the road became narrow, empty and flanked by forest on both the sides. We switched off the AC and stuck our necks out. The first sight of the mountains again made me realize how I had missed them. As we were 10 km away from Nanital, a small mist descended on us making everything more beautiful.

Naini Lake, Nainital

The Shervani Hilltop Resort

We reached the resort around 12 noon and frankly the Avomine (anti nausea medicine for motion sickness in the hills) had taken its toll. I announced myself at the reception and was wondering if everything would go right? The person at the reception immediately greeted me, made me fill a small form and handed me the key to our room.

The room was big and well furnished. Once again, we were attended to and informed that our welcome drinks are on the way. I requested them if they could make it tea? They readily agreed and in a short while we were drinking it. After freshening up a bit, it was time for me to admire the flowers around the resort, they really have a lot of beautiful flowers hanging from different corners and some kind of cactus literally growing from the walls!

Soon, we decided we were hungry and headed to the dining hall for lunch. Some good food tucked inside and we headed back to our room. I thought for a fraction of a second if I should catch up on sleep but we decided to head out.

Flowers at the Resort

A Walk to the Naini Lake

The resort is really up a small hilltop and the road to it is steep. But as we are used to walking, we just decided to walk to the Naini Lake. When I went to the reception to give my room key, I told them my plan. They were a bit skeptical and told us that the resort jeeps go to the mall road at regular intervals and we could hop into one. We told them about our motion sickness and our preference for walking. Then we were told, “OK, do let us know when you want to come back” and I replied, “Don’t worry we will walk that way too.” I thought some eyes were rolling upwards at this reply.

Well, we headed out, and soon reached the lake. This was the first time for my nephew at Nainital and soon we decided to go for boating. Our boatman was Harish and he is from the nearby town of Almora and has been coming to Nainital in the season for the last 20 years. In the middle of the lake, we requested him to take our photographs. We offered him the Nikon 3200. Then after taking the picture, he asked for my camera. My face was full of hesitation. Sensing it Harish told me, “Aap de do ye camera, meine ek se eak camera chalaya hai.” (You can give me the camera, I have used really state of the art cameras). Still all hesitation, I gave it to him, and no wonder he handled it like a pro! So much so for my city bred assumptions!!

After the ride, we took a walk around the periphery of the lake and then we felt real hungry. We found a place called Bawrachi (that turned out to be not so great) at the mall road. While I ordered something fancy called noodle cutlet Sunil sensibly went with an omelet. As we were having tea, the skies opened up. The lake and the clouds met and the people, who were out there boating, really had it. We also panicked and called the hotel and asked if they could pick us up. While we were waiting, the rain went off and we were impatient to start again. I called them again and asked if they had not already sent the vehicle, we would like to walk. I was given the best wishes for my walk up. Of course we managed it with a sweat. I told some good folks that just in June we were trekking at the height of 14000 feet in Spiti and this climb was a cake walk.

Later, it was time for us to play some TT and to show Sunil that there is still a game left where I am better than him! Later, after dinner (I am not a foodie but Sunil is and he liked the food) and a big helping of the sweet dish later (I have a big sweet tooth) we sat out in the well lit corridor and I was reading my book. But then, I was just too tired by now and started feeling cold, and I decided to turn in. A little bit of TV and book and it was time to call it a day.

Shervani Hill Top Resort, Nainital (Picture courtesy the Shervani Hill Top resort)

Day 2

We got up late and hurried for the breakfast. I liked it a lot when they asked me for tea for a second time and gave it to me promptly! There were a lot of guests around and I thought the staff tried to chat up with everyone. Then it was time to hand over the key at the reception again. We mentioned that we may not turn up for lunch as we had ambitious plans for the day. We wanted to take the rope way and then from there walk to the China Peak. And that is what we exactly did. The end point of the rope way is too crowded and full of shops and with clouds and all there was no view, so we were waiting to get out. We had an interesting ride though, where they haul you up to a point and them the ride comes crashing down at an enormous speed. I have to say both of us enjoyed it. We then had a cup of tea and off we went to China peak on foot.

This was the only time when we were ale to leave the crowds behind. We must have taken around 2 hours to reach there and we were lucky that it rained lightly on the way. I am not really worried about us but more about my camera! The way was green, with flowers and some slugs too (that Sunil promptly photographed and wants me to put on this blog! No way is my answer).

At the top is a canteen run by the forest department and we had more tea and omelet. We got busy taking picture and then once again the skies really opened. We took shelter at the other side of the hut. The rain showed no sign of stopping. Soon one of the persons from the hut approached us and asked if we would like to have some food with them! We tried to be polite and said no once. But when he repeated the offer we took it up gladly. We were served Kichdi (A dish of rice and pulses) and it tasted so good. The rain still continued. We once again started getting a bit worried and asked the people more than once, “Ye barish rukege na?” (Will the weather clear up?) and the answer was always in the affirmative. After a long time we headed back again to the Naini Lake and this time we had to walk all the way down as the rope way tickets are valid only for an hour.

We headed to another shop at the Mall Road (Sakley’s Pastry Shop) and polished off a lot of stuff which was good. Then we decided to take a stroll around the lake again. But after walking for a while we decided to take a peddle boat out to the lake. Later, Sunil and I both cursed our decision to row on our own as we were already tired. Yet, in our allotted hour, we managed to peddle to the end and come back. It was almost sunset now and after taking a few pictures it was time to turn back.

Back at the Resort

Guess what we did after coming back? It was a bit late and with a lot of guilt I asked if we could get a cup of tea at that time. They readily served it to us in our room. While I was waiting for it, sitting outside, the door to the room was open. A few of the guests passed (they did not notice me as I was quite close to the wall) and peeped in and claimed a loud Wow! I guess they liked our room. After tea, we played TT again. Then we attacked our dinner (I really liked the Shahi Tukda, that is bread made sweet with a lot condensed milk and garnishing) and Sunil enjoyed his chicken. There was a huge group of kids at the resort on a school trip and were enjoying themselves at the disco. We once again sat out, me with my book and Sunil with his MP3 player. But once again I started feeling cold quickly and it was time for some TV again. The next day after breakfast we were heading back.

Sunil summed up the experience for me when I asked how did he find the trip? He said, “See, we like to go out and really walk a lot. But there are people who want cold weather, good food, drinks, a relaxing environment and a pickup and a drop to the mall on their holiday. Surely they are going to enjoy it. And admit it, for a change it was good for us too.” I agree. I should also mention that I realized that it is really the attention to the small things like asking how our day out was or realizing that I like tea a lot, which are going to remain with me for a long time.

Here is the contact information and the off-season package prices for the Shervani Hill Top Resort-

Tariffs at Shervani Hilltop Nainital:
Rs.2333/- to Rs.5833/- per person for 2nights and 3 days on twin sharing basis inclusive of Breakfast & Dinner + Taxes

Please note-The above-mentioned tariff is valid till March 31 2008 and not valid from December 29 2007 to January 02 2008.

Address: Shervani Hilltop, Mallital, Nainital 263001.
Phone : 05942 - 233800
email Id :nainital@shervanihspl.com

The Boat Ride at Nainital

Sunil Tries His Hand at Boating with some Help from Harish, Naini Lake, Nainital

As Sunil (my younger nephew) and I went on this trip to Nainital we tried things like boating and some silly rides at the end of the rope way. Sesha and I we often just end up waking from here to there but that also is pretty nice.

So with Sunil soon it was time to take boat ride that cost us Rupees 120. As you try to enter the narrow boat it sways a bit and I like that feeling. Soon, we were out in the lake and Sunil asked the boatman if he could try rowing. The boatman was all game for it. Sunil was a miserable flop at it. Then he came and sat next to me. The boatman could probably sense from my face that I too wanted to try my hand but was too hesitant to ask. So he offered, "Aao app bhi try karo" (come, you too give it a try). Of course, I too was a miserable flop at it! And while he did it, rowing looked so simple.

This broke the ice and we started chatting. We learned that the boatman's name was Harish and he is from Almora. His family lives with him at Nainital and they go back in October to Almora for farming. He has been coming to Nainital in tourist season for the past 20 years (he didn't look that old)!

Then we asked him if he knew to swim? He said to become a boatman one has to clear a swimming test and yes he could swim. Then I asked, "Has it ever happened that a tourist fell down in the lake by accident?" He replied, "Nahin per kuch suicide karne chale aate hain, us case mein saab boat wale sath aa jate hain aur bacha hi lete hain" (No, but a few come with an intention to commit suicide, then all the boats try to come quickly together and save the person). Hmm, that was something I could never have imagined!

Then we asked him to take a picture of us. He said, "camera do" (Pass the camera) looking at my DSLR. I was all hesitation again and we requested him to take a picture with the point and shoot digital. After taking the picture he again asked for my camera. Looking at my hesitation again he said, "Aaare laao do, meine eak se eak camera chalaya hai" (Ohh, give me the camera, I have used some real fancy ones). So, I gave it to him and he immediately adjusted the focal lense and took out a masterful picture! And Sunil and I really laughed and laughed at my city bred notions! So much so for my hesitation over handing him the camera! The picture Harish took can be seen here.

Pictures from Nainital

Naini Lake, Nainital, Uttranchal

While they are not be compared with Spiti pictures, I have finally uploaded some of my pictures from the just concluded trip to Nainital.

Now this is What I Call 'Taking the First Road Out'

Nainital- Photo by Sunil

My younger nephew Sunil and I took a trip to Nanital this weekend, and came back today. A few months back I got a mail from good people at Shervani Hilltop Resort, Nanital. They invited me to the resort as their guest, in return I had to blog about them. Now how could I ever pass over such a deal -)

But as the academic session had started, it was only now that I could manage to take leave. The detailed blog post about this trip will have to wait till tomorrow, as I am too tired today. Anyway I can't load the pictures from my camera as Sesha has removed the DSLR camera software and the CD is lying at my office. And no, this is not what I mean by 'taking the first road out.'

While Sunil and I were walking around in Nainital I saw a girl whom I recognized from my IIT days. She too stopped and said, "I know you." When I asked her what she was doing here, an interesting story unfolded. She and her husband after working for 5-6 years in software industry decided that they like the wildlife too much. So what do they do? They write IFS (Indian Forest Services) together, get through and get posted in Uttranchal! They leave their software jobs behind. Now this may not be taking 'the first road out' but I consider it as taking the proper road out.

Now that I have told this to Sesha, he is after me, why don't you apply to one of the Hill universities. Well, the problem is I like my job a lot and have no intention to change it in a hurry. But as a long term plan, the idea of applying to a hill university is certainly attractive.

A Trip to Khurpatal, Nainital and a Stay at Dynasty Resorts in Uttranchal

I went on a short trip to Khurpatal, 10 km ahead of Nainital on a college sponsored trip. We stayed at the Dynasty Resorts which is secluded and next to a small lake but I feel their normal rates are a bit too high.

I visited Nainital again after ages. Last that I can remember is when I was in standard 8th. And of course, places change in so many years. I was pretty apprehensive about the Khurpatal trip. I have traveled a lot as a student for various sports meets but this was my first trip as a member of faculty! And now that I am back in one piece, I can say it is pretty OK to go with 18 year olds! And you get to interact a lot with your colleagues too, not a bad thing at all.

I am sharing a few photographs of the trip. The one below was taken from a walk through a forest near Dynasty Resort. It was a short 30 minutes walk and this view of the valley was one of the best I got in the entire trip.

A View from a Walk through the Jungle near Dynasty Resort at Khrupatal

While we were freezing to death in Nainital

Our entire group made a short trip to Nainital and I clicked this picture while we were waiting for our cabs to take us back to the resort at Khurpatal. I wish I could make the cars vanish from the picture but they are very much the part of all the popular hill stations in India.

It was damn cold and I don't know why I did not take a thick jacket! Actually, I finished the major part of grading by 7 in the evening of our departure date to Khurpatal and then went home to pack. No wonder my packing was stupid. And all this while I was cursing myself and wondering if I was finding Nainital so cold in the beginning of December what made me decide to go to Sikkim at the end of the month? I am sure I am going to freeze to death there.

Khurpatal Lake

By comparison to Nainital, Khurpatal (tal means lake in Hindi) is so peaceful, I was the only person around when I took this picture. But people at home say it looks more like a pond than a lake and I will have to agree. But for me, any day give me peace and quiet by a pond rather than loads of people by a large lake.

In the far distance you can see the Dynasty resort (Khurpatal). By the lake, one could not guess that the resort contained 40 screaming teenagers!

At Naini Lake, Nainital

I have seen so many pictures of boats taken from above that when opportunity came I had to take one myself and I am pleased with the result. These boats were resting at Nani lake.

On our way back the bus got a flat tire. That and a lot of traffic, and we took nearly 14 hours to get back from Khurpatal to Gurgaon. I also realized that if bad music is played on the music system of a bus it messes up the thought process and sets my teeth on edge. But all said and done, it was a much needed break from grading, grading and some more grading.

Some more pictures of the trip are here.

Another Tale from Kuari Pass Trek, Uttranchal Himalayas, India

A View from Kuari Pass Base

We met three fabulous people on the trek through Kuari Pass in Uttranchal Himalayas (India) this June. Sonu was our guide for the trek and Vikrant and Virendra owned the horses that carried our luggage. I have talked about our conversations in a post before.

This tale belongs to Sonu and he told it to us when we asked how he became a trekking guide? I am writing it from memory and in English, although our conversation happened in Hindi.

“I started as a porter on one of the treks that go beyond Badrinath. The first time around I had no idea what it involved. It was cold and I was not adequately dressed for the weather. On top of it, I was wearing thin-soled Tennis shoes. Every porter is supposed to carry 25 kg. of weight and I was not prepared for that either. Half way through, my shoes wore out and I gave up. I returned and they didn’t even pay me the full amount for the number of the days I worked. But after that, I was better prepared. I worked as a porter for a few years and when I learnt the routes well enough, I started working as a guide. Now, I only freelance and do not get tied with any one agency.”

All this was told with such good humor, without any trace of bitterness or malice toward anyone. It was only when I sat down later and talked to Sesha, we realized how tough it must have been for him initially. Otherwise, Sonu made it sound almost like fun!

In Search of an Indian Village: Travel Article From The Washington Post

I read an interesting travel article on the Washington Post recently. The author, Lisa Singh is in search of an authentic Indian village expeience. Not the Chokhi Dhani type.

I wanted to experience an overlooked side to Indian life. Nearly all Western travelers stick to India's cities. Here in Rajasthan, a largely desert land visited by nearly half of all tourists to the country, those wanting a taste of Indian rural life often settle on a place like Chokhi Dhani. Billed as an "ethnic village resort," it's an amusement park on the outskirts of Jaipur where visitors ride bullock carts, eat in mud huts and watch dancers perform under the open night sky. You'll also hear shrieks of fright from the crowd every time the electric lights inadvertently flicker off.

She is not willing to forgo the hot shower but quite a game not to let a few mice scare her off.

I didn't want to forgo hot showers, but I was eager to spend days away from the city -- and not a moment too soon. I'd flown into Jaipur in February as a three-week garbage strike gripped the city of more than 2 million and the smell of burning trash filled the air. The day the Hindustan Times reported that strikers "bayed for their leaders' blood," I hired a driver, met up with Mr. Agrawal and hit the road.

However, if you are willing to forgo the hot shower and not scared of a few mice or cockroches, I will suggest a different recipe for you.

1. Catch a state transport bus going in the direction of either Himanchal Pradesh or Uttranchal (or any other state you want to visit). You may get a few goats as your fellow passengers.

2. The most expensive room in the off season may cost you 150 rupees (3 dollars roughly) if you are lucky to find a proper hotel.

3. There will be a lot of friendly people around away from the big town madness that Delhi induces.

4. Sometimes the bus journey turns out to be a little bit too much even for me.

5. The places that are the last stop ( or almost te last stop) of a state transport bus are too beautiful for words in the state of Himanchal Pradesh and Uttranchal.

Kuari Pass Trek, Uttranchal Himalayas, India

We decided to trek through Kuari Pass, in Uttranchal Himalayas and the journey started from New Delhi. It was raining for the most of the journey and when we reached Rishikesh at 12 midnight, it was still raining. I was quite disappointed and I started bugging my husband that maybe we will not be able to trek at all if it rained like this. He too got confused for a while and we considered alternatives but he pacified me, saying if it would rain too much we would trek through Valley of Flowers instead.

So we checked into Gaurav Hotel, which is just in front of the bus stand and it is nothing to write home about. The only saving grace: no carpet that would stink and relatively clean washroom.

Next morning, we started for Joshimath on this Khatara (uncomfortable) bus. Our journey for the Kuari Pass Tek had finally started. It was full of pilgrims intending to visit Badrinath, which is quite close to Joshimath. Both of us have motion sickness and have no option but to get zonked on Avomine.

The Journey Begins in Earnest: Two of Our Fellow Passengers on the way to Joshimath

The journey was the usual bus journey with lovely view of the river Ganga, stops at Dhabas for lunch and tea, the aching limbs and the fervent wish that we may reach soon. Most of the time, because of taking Avomine, we both fall asleep and miss the view.

This bus had particularly sharp edge (I kept my tracksuit top on it) where I rested my hands on the window and I hit my head on the seat in front so bad a few times that I had small bumps (blame it on Avomine induced sleep) till two days after.

We Liked their Philosophy: Our Trekking Agency for the Kuari Pass Trek

When we travel, we never book a hotel in advance (don’t ask me why, ask H) or decide on a trekking agency we would use. While we were walking to a hotel with huge rucksacks (and shoes tied to them), a young guy asked us if we were here to trek? He pointed out Grand Adventures to us and we were sold on their punch line 'Where you come from is not nearly as important as where you are going!' We liked their philosophy and decided to give them a try. They gave us good rates and ultimately we trekked with them. Our guide's name is Sohan Singh Bisht (Sonu and I recommend him highly as a guide) and not only he is an excellent guide but an excellent cook too, a much appreciated quality by both of us! He along with our two horsemen (young lads really, of 18-19 years of age) told us so many fascinating stories. And by the time we reached Joshimath, the rains had completely disappeared. We really had a sunny trek this time.

Ropeway To Auli from Joshimath

The starting point of our trek was Auli, and one can take a jeep to Auli from Joshimath, but that would have meant Avomine and being zonked again. So, we decided to take the ropeway along with Sonu. We were quite scared that the state government authorities would not let us take so much of luggage on the ropeway but they were really nice and helpful. I have high praise for them for treating us with a lot of consideration. Our horses were waiting for us in Auli. We started quite late on the first day but it really did not matter, as we covered a very short distance.

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A Temple (built by ITBP) on the Way to Gurson Baghyal from Auli

We walked barely for 45 minutes when our guide told us we would be camping for the day. Our guide helped us pitch our tent and then took over the kitchen! Very soon we realized we had forgotten to bring sugar. But our guide, with the help of the young lads managed to get it from some village. As I said earlier, Sonu cooked excellent food and we feasted throughout this trek.

Our Home in the Hills: The First Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

Crossing Gurson Baghyal: The Second Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

From the second day we started trekking in earnest, and we camped at the base of Kuari Pass. We decided to sit there idle for one day, as the views were fabulous. Usually, people camp at Chitrakanta but our guide took us further probably to compensate for the little walking we did on day one.

Nandadevi Peak

We got the most wonderful views from Kuari Pass base and I share a few of them below.

The Hathi-Ghori Peak: Views on the Third Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

Chaukhamba Peaks: The Views on the Third day of the Kuari Pass Trek

After sitting for one day we were raring to go and our guide set us a really ambitious target. We had to reach Pana (skipping two campsites along the way), and even he was anxious, as to how long we would take. We started at seven in the morning and crossed Kuari Pass and continued walking on and on and on ... We walked for nine hours that day and even the locals would feel surprised that we managed to cover all that distance in one day. We feasted on Maggi in the evening before dinner and this was the most tiring day of our trek. The day after this was moderate and we camped at, Jhinji.

From Jhinji, we again had a long day, a walk of 8 hours. I thought people would be quite convinced that I can do this walk as I had done the nine hour day without any complaint. But it was not to be.

By now, our rations were really getting light and H kept joking that if I can't walk, then I can sit on a horse and complete the trek! He also kept harping on how playing TT (I play table tennis almost daily) can never keep me fit. The guide also chimed in a few times with H. I decided to teach H a lesson.

Look What We Found: Day Six of the Kuari Pass Trek

When I walk on a trek my head is usually in the trees, flowers, hills and peaks or the stream that is flowing by. But on our walk from Jhinji to Dhuni, I kept it firmly on the path and I started with my former athlete tread and then I do not stop much (a lifetime ago, I could run ten kilometers without too much sweat). We climbed two hills that day to reach our destination and H kept struggling to keep pace.

We took a small break (where H is posing with the buffalo skull above) and after he reached there panting, much later (OK, maybe not that much later, but still after me) I told him he could use the horse if he felt like it. I also asked for his opinion on TT again and it had changed considerably in the short span of time!

Our walk downhill was a really tough one as the road was full of loose stones and believe me, itne pathron per tou mein jindagi mein kabhi nahin chali hun (I have never walked on so many stones in my entire life). Even now my knees hurt.

Please Don't Leave Plastic Behind: Litter on the Kuari Pass Trek Route

Kuari Pass trail is not that littered but in the pictures above you can see the typical haul for a day. Both H and I try to pick up as much plastic as we can from the way but sometimes we are just too tired to bend down one more time or go after a off the track piece. We burn it at the camp later. If you have a better suggestion to deal with the plastic problem, do drop in a comment.

Village Dhuni: The Last Stop on the Kuari Pass Trek

The last stop on our trek was quite close to this village and the kids have a favorite hobby, they hang around the campsite and just sit and stare at you! Quite unnerving if you ask me.

The Bridge that Leads to the Roadhead to Ghat:the End of Walking at the Kuari Pass Trek

The last day's walk was relatively easy and we soon reached the road head and once again back to the reality. Oh! and if you trek through Kuari Pass, the villagers consider you either Ungrez (Foreigner! imagine me, dark and sunburned on top of that, being mistaken for a foreigner) or a bangali (Bengali, which is far from ture but at least West Bengal is in India). For the local people no one else treks!

PS. More pictures of this trek are here and here.

Auli: Beautiful Hillstation in Uttaranchal, India

Auli is a picture postcard kind of a place situated in Uttarancahl, India. I went there in the August of 2002, just after submitting my Ph.D. thesis and just before starting my first job that turned out to be an absolute horror. Rainy season, that is July and August are the worst time to visit a hill station in India but we wanted to take a break at that point anyway, so we went to Auli.

One can reach Auli by going to Haridwar and from there taking a bus to Joshimath. The journey from Haridwar to Joshimath takes roughly 12 hours on twisting and bending roads, full of pot holes. We reached Joshimath at eight in the evening and it was raining lightly. I was dead tired and longing for food and rest. We checked into GMVN (Garhwal Viaks Mandal Nigam, a government run property) guest house where the room cost us Rupees 500 for the night. The next day we took the ropeway to Auli.

The GMVN Guesthouse

We again stayed at the GMVN guest house at Auli and it is one of the most horrible places I have ever stayed in. Nothing wrong with the surrounding as such, you can see from the picture above. But the rooms in the guest house gave such a terrible stench that it was a nightmare trying to fall asleep. We never stay indoors during the day, but still it was the most gloomy and badly maintained hotel room I ever slept in. There were not much option at Auli in 2002, just the GMVN property and one private resort which we thought to be expensive and never even inquired there.

The Meadow called Gurson Bhagyal

However, one can never find a fault with the place itself. The most remarkable thing we did was to take a 7 kilometer walk with a guide partially through a trek route. Before the beginning of the journey, I was really tired as I had just toiled to submit my thesis and left to my own I would have skipped the walk altogether. But my sane and sensible husband goes completely berserk in hill stations and no trip is complete without one of these walks. In the picture below you can see the meadows, called Gurson Baghyal, which we walked through. We were told that the real view, the snow clapped mountains, were hidden behind the clouds. It rained for part of the way and we reached back to our hotel soaked and dead tired in the evening. I have to add one thing, the cook at the GMVN guesthouse was excellent and we did all justice to the food that night.

The next few days were spent in roaming about aimlessly in Auli. One day we saw this perfect rainbow and generally walked through fields and flowers, sat on huge stones, my husband philosophical and I generally jumping around.

On another day we saw apple trees laden with ripe fruits and we also met too small girls who chatted with us. They used to go to school and were on their way to gather the cows before the evening fell.

Trees and Some Snow: Har-Ki-Doon, Uttaranchal India

Who took this photo?

There is a dispute about this picture in my house, my young and naughty nephew claims he took it whereas I remember taking this one myself. Either way, both of us remember this beautiful trip. My nephew saw snow for the first time on this trip and I for the second time in my life. But walking on snow is altogether a different affair.

I remember my first trek to Sar Pass, in Himanchal Pradesh. In that trek for one whole day we walked on snow. Then trekking for the first time, I was wearing my city shoes, a sneaker and how I slipped for the entire day! I blame my husband for it. He had trekked before and yet did not warn me to wear a proper shoe! The second time around at Har-Ki-Doon, I was wise and wore what locals wear, something called 'hunter shoes' and it has pretty amazing grip, so slipping on snow is now a thing of past. But it is also true that there was very little snow on the way in 2004 in Har-Ki-Doon.

Har-Ki-Doon, Uttranchal, India

A Walk Through the Paddy Fields

We trekked in Har-Ki-Doon Valley in the year 2004 though Youth Hostel Association of India (YHAI). The picture was taken on the route from Seema to Har-Ki-Doon. I still remember our walk through the paddy fields. On the way we met some women working on the field and their sweet smiles. Living for a few days in nature, when there is no electricity and the source of water is a stream or a river, is my idea of paradise. Of course, the food was provided by the YHAI kitchen at various camps.