Rappling- A Few of the 'Adventure' Stuff I Have Done

Rappling Down a Rock, Sankari, Har-Ki-Doon Base Camp 2004

I had clicked this picture for our camp leader (and who turned out to be a good friend too, he visited us more than once when he has been in Delhi) on the Har-Ki-Doon trip. I too tried this activity and came down the rock without too much of a sweat. Then my younger nephew tried it and he slipped, got up and then came down. Unfortunately there are no pictures of ours.

That reminds me, during this trek, I had a very nasty Yashika film camera that used to jam the film at will. And you guessed it right, when we started walking from Seema to Har-Ki-Doon, the most most beautiful day of the walk, that damn camera jammed. That is when our camp leader handed us his digital camera for the rest of the trek. I mean that was really large hearted of him and whenever I remember this trek, I do think of his gesture with a lot of fondness.

Why Do We Run to the Mountains?

Mountains on the Kuari Pass Trek, Uttrakhand

At the first opportunity, Sesha and I head to the mountains. And winters are no exception. Recently it was my husband's birthday and hesulks and cribs if taken through the restaurant and movie routine. However, as his birthday came squarely in the middle of the week there was no way we could travel. So, this time around it had to be the restaurant and movie routine or nothing. As soon as we entered one of numerous malls that have mushroomed in Gurgaon, he told me, "You know what? I never feel relaxed at this place." And by this place he meant malls in general. I had to agree with him. I think that is why we run to the hills, it is very different there, quiet, peaceful and relaxing.

One of these days, a colleague of mine was also joking, "Why do you have to walk all day to feel relaxed, I mean I need all the creature comforts to have a good vacation." I agree, on a trek creature comforts are actually missing but then that is the only time I when I try to think about things that are of earth shattering importance to me :) With a big flat rock and miles of serenity I manage to think better, in fact that is the only time I manage to think and gain some perspective :) That is another reason why I long for treks and mountains.

And this is part nostalgia and part crib too, as I said after five long years it has happened that I am not sure if I am trekking this summer or not. I better manage it somehow or I will die with envy when others come back from some trek and show me the pictures.

No Trekking Plans for Sure this Summer!

Ladakh- The Food Place Near Pangong Lake

Since 2003, every summer we have trekked or at least tried to trek. Tried as in we went trekking but could not complete the Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh, as I took ill.

In the summer of 2003 it was Saar Pass

In the summer of 2004 it was Har Ki Doon

In the summer of 2005 it was the unfinished trek in Ladakh

In the summer of 2006 it was Kuari Pass

In the summer of 2007 it was Spiti

So, of course, I feel quite like a fish out of water as I am not sure whether I will be able to trek this summer or not. I mean there could be some work related travel (but this one is with a big 'maybe'). Of course, my family merrily told me that if I am not coming they are trekking on their own and anyway my nephews are much better trekkers than me, Sesha only likes to think so! I am keeping my figures crossed. I mean I don't know which one I want more.

Finally, the Spiti Tale!

Magnificent Spiti

Months after I actually trekked in Spiti, my travel tale is up at the Gonomad website. I even got poked by Priyank that it was about time I wrote this tale. Here is a short excerpt from the article-

The walk from Komik to Demul was the longest. It took us 6 hours, though I met a gentleman from Austria who said he did it in 3 hours. Hats off to him, is all I can say. It was the day when I realized that when pushed a lot my back is capable of hurting like mad.

However, the route was so beautiful and the weather pleasant due to a clouded sky. At our lunch point we were visited by Yaks, who came to drink from the same source as us! But at that time, I found it difficult to eat and was lying flat on my back waiting for others to finish the lunch.

Those Who Trek ...

... not always like it. I found this well written account of Jamie about his trekking experience of the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal. He says-

When most trekkers get to Jomsom, our nominee’s starting point, they’ve already been trekking for two weeks and they’ve just crossed the 17,000 feet+ Thorung La. They normally complete the Jomsom stage in about 4 days. Our bloke took a week.

His legs simply don’t work any more.

Bits of him ache that he previously didn’t even know existed.

Even I have wondered on so many treks that why do all my vacations involve walking from morning to evening and then trying to relax so that I can walk some more the next day. But then I think trekking defies logic! After every trek, I look ahead for trekking some more.

PS. I saw the reference to Jamie's post first at Indiamike on a thread discussing how to get your significant other let you trek!

PPS. Cross posted at Blogharti too.

Full of Stones or so it Seems Sometimes!

We encountered this stone filled track on the Kuari Pass trek. Why does it seem to resemble life at certain point? I know, I know, I have no right to crib. But just felt like it.

Kuari Pass Trek, Uttranchal Himalayas, India

We decided to trek through Kuari Pass, in Uttranchal Himalayas and the journey started from New Delhi. It was raining for the most of the journey and when we reached Rishikesh at 12 midnight, it was still raining. I was quite disappointed and I started bugging my husband that maybe we will not be able to trek at all if it rained like this. He too got confused for a while and we considered alternatives but he pacified me, saying if it would rain too much we would trek through Valley of Flowers instead.

So we checked into Gaurav Hotel, which is just in front of the bus stand and it is nothing to write home about. The only saving grace: no carpet that would stink and relatively clean washroom.

Next morning, we started for Joshimath on this Khatara (uncomfortable) bus. Our journey for the Kuari Pass Tek had finally started. It was full of pilgrims intending to visit Badrinath, which is quite close to Joshimath. Both of us have motion sickness and have no option but to get zonked on Avomine.

The Journey Begins in Earnest: Two of Our Fellow Passengers on the way to Joshimath

The journey was the usual bus journey with lovely view of the river Ganga, stops at Dhabas for lunch and tea, the aching limbs and the fervent wish that we may reach soon. Most of the time, because of taking Avomine, we both fall asleep and miss the view.

This bus had particularly sharp edge (I kept my tracksuit top on it) where I rested my hands on the window and I hit my head on the seat in front so bad a few times that I had small bumps (blame it on Avomine induced sleep) till two days after.

We Liked their Philosophy: Our Trekking Agency for the Kuari Pass Trek

When we travel, we never book a hotel in advance (don’t ask me why, ask H) or decide on a trekking agency we would use. While we were walking to a hotel with huge rucksacks (and shoes tied to them), a young guy asked us if we were here to trek? He pointed out Grand Adventures to us and we were sold on their punch line 'Where you come from is not nearly as important as where you are going!' We liked their philosophy and decided to give them a try. They gave us good rates and ultimately we trekked with them. Our guide's name is Sohan Singh Bisht (Sonu and I recommend him highly as a guide) and not only he is an excellent guide but an excellent cook too, a much appreciated quality by both of us! He along with our two horsemen (young lads really, of 18-19 years of age) told us so many fascinating stories. And by the time we reached Joshimath, the rains had completely disappeared. We really had a sunny trek this time.

Ropeway To Auli from Joshimath

The starting point of our trek was Auli, and one can take a jeep to Auli from Joshimath, but that would have meant Avomine and being zonked again. So, we decided to take the ropeway along with Sonu. We were quite scared that the state government authorities would not let us take so much of luggage on the ropeway but they were really nice and helpful. I have high praise for them for treating us with a lot of consideration. Our horses were waiting for us in Auli. We started quite late on the first day but it really did not matter, as we covered a very short distance.

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A Temple (built by ITBP) on the Way to Gurson Baghyal from Auli

We walked barely for 45 minutes when our guide told us we would be camping for the day. Our guide helped us pitch our tent and then took over the kitchen! Very soon we realized we had forgotten to bring sugar. But our guide, with the help of the young lads managed to get it from some village. As I said earlier, Sonu cooked excellent food and we feasted throughout this trek.

Our Home in the Hills: The First Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

Crossing Gurson Baghyal: The Second Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

From the second day we started trekking in earnest, and we camped at the base of Kuari Pass. We decided to sit there idle for one day, as the views were fabulous. Usually, people camp at Chitrakanta but our guide took us further probably to compensate for the little walking we did on day one.

Nandadevi Peak

We got the most wonderful views from Kuari Pass base and I share a few of them below.

The Hathi-Ghori Peak: Views on the Third Day of the Kuari Pass Trek

Chaukhamba Peaks: The Views on the Third day of the Kuari Pass Trek

After sitting for one day we were raring to go and our guide set us a really ambitious target. We had to reach Pana (skipping two campsites along the way), and even he was anxious, as to how long we would take. We started at seven in the morning and crossed Kuari Pass and continued walking on and on and on ... We walked for nine hours that day and even the locals would feel surprised that we managed to cover all that distance in one day. We feasted on Maggi in the evening before dinner and this was the most tiring day of our trek. The day after this was moderate and we camped at, Jhinji.

From Jhinji, we again had a long day, a walk of 8 hours. I thought people would be quite convinced that I can do this walk as I had done the nine hour day without any complaint. But it was not to be.

By now, our rations were really getting light and H kept joking that if I can't walk, then I can sit on a horse and complete the trek! He also kept harping on how playing TT (I play table tennis almost daily) can never keep me fit. The guide also chimed in a few times with H. I decided to teach H a lesson.

Look What We Found: Day Six of the Kuari Pass Trek

When I walk on a trek my head is usually in the trees, flowers, hills and peaks or the stream that is flowing by. But on our walk from Jhinji to Dhuni, I kept it firmly on the path and I started with my former athlete tread and then I do not stop much (a lifetime ago, I could run ten kilometers without too much sweat). We climbed two hills that day to reach our destination and H kept struggling to keep pace.

We took a small break (where H is posing with the buffalo skull above) and after he reached there panting, much later (OK, maybe not that much later, but still after me) I told him he could use the horse if he felt like it. I also asked for his opinion on TT again and it had changed considerably in the short span of time!

Our walk downhill was a really tough one as the road was full of loose stones and believe me, itne pathron per tou mein jindagi mein kabhi nahin chali hun (I have never walked on so many stones in my entire life). Even now my knees hurt.

Please Don't Leave Plastic Behind: Litter on the Kuari Pass Trek Route

Kuari Pass trail is not that littered but in the pictures above you can see the typical haul for a day. Both H and I try to pick up as much plastic as we can from the way but sometimes we are just too tired to bend down one more time or go after a off the track piece. We burn it at the camp later. If you have a better suggestion to deal with the plastic problem, do drop in a comment.

Village Dhuni: The Last Stop on the Kuari Pass Trek

The last stop on our trek was quite close to this village and the kids have a favorite hobby, they hang around the campsite and just sit and stare at you! Quite unnerving if you ask me.

The Bridge that Leads to the Roadhead to Ghat:the End of Walking at the Kuari Pass Trek

The last day's walk was relatively easy and we soon reached the road head and once again back to the reality. Oh! and if you trek through Kuari Pass, the villagers consider you either Ungrez (Foreigner! imagine me, dark and sunburned on top of that, being mistaken for a foreigner) or a bangali (Bengali, which is far from ture but at least West Bengal is in India). For the local people no one else treks!

PS. More pictures of this trek are here and here.

My First Trek: Sar Pass (Himanchal Pradesh)

My husband and I took a trek in the Indian Himalayas from May 17 to May 27, 2003. I still dream about it, it was so incredibly beautiful. As I am writing this, I can see this one is going to be really long! Have patience with me.

My husband has trekked before but this was the first trek for me. He didn't want to scare me off by taking on a very difficult one. Searching for options we stumbled upon YHAI (Youth Hostel Association of India). They offer choice of three locations in the Himalayas for trekking in summer and have various other programs. Their website is:

http://www.yhaindia.org/default.aspx

The trek starts at a base camp in Kasol, in the state of Himanchal Pradesh (HP). Kasol can be reached from India's capital New Delhi both by bus and train. By train one has to go to Chandigarh and then take a bus to Manali (a famous hill station) and get down at Bhuntar. From Bhuntar all the buses going to Manikaran pass via Kasol. Manikaran is famous for its hot water springs. Else, one can straight away take a bus from Delhi to Manali, get down at Bhuntar and follow the route.

After coming from the plains in the Indian summer where temperatures sore to 40 degree centigrade or more, I was greeted a view of tents pitched on a small flat piece of land, next to which river Parvati was flowing and facing it were snow capped peaks (Pin Parvati) looming high in a distance. And this was just the base camp. It was so soothing for our frayed nerves of metropolitan life. Whenever I was out of my tent (which was for most of the time) I would just keep looking at those peeks. On the day of reporting there are no activities scheduled though we were a day late for reporting but were accommodated in our original group.

The second day at base camp was spent in morning exercises followed by an acclimatization walk and a briefing in the evening about our route and expected behavior of us. Believe me, it is required as people seem so prone to leaving all kind of litter behind. The second is devoted to morning exercises and some rock climbing but this is not really required during the trek so they are pretty lenient about it. Third day and you are off to the actual stuff.

Before I start describing the trek, I will put in a quick word about YHAI and their organization of the trek. The whole show is run on a ‘not for profit’ basis and by volunteers, who themselves are experienced trekkers. They are called camp leaders. They are stationed at every stop, often two to three people along with the cooking staff. So at every stop we are greeted by ready tent and food for us. There cannot be any greater luxury than this after a day spent walking through the thick. There are camp leaders who have been coming every year since 1978! In the month of May every day batches leave in group of 50 and keep walking between these campsites. Such a crowd is managed every day in camps efficiently. I have a few peeves with YHAI but they are really minor and I will touch on them at the end.

An Old Lady in Village Grahan

A Waterfall on the Way to Grahan

Scene from Padari Base Camp

Crossing a Stream

The groups that trek with YHAI contain people who are novice and not really fit, to really good trekkers. It has been designed such that a person who does nothing much their day apart from normal school/office going activities and occasional walking, too can complete it. The food they serve is Indian vegetarian and they do not allow you to smoke and consume alcohol while on trek (people do it at higher altitudes, but if you are caught, you might be sent back). Every night there is a campfire if the weather permits it but no burning of wood.

So coming back to the actual stuff, on the third day we started at 8.30 in the morning from our base camp for our first stop from base camp Kasol was to Grahan.

Kasol to Grahan: When we started, we were asked to leave in a single file with all the girls in front (we were 12 in number) and we used to hate this arrangement, the view is blocked by row of rucksacks and for heaven's sake I wanted to walk with my husband. Well, after walking for 200 meters all of us would go to wherever we wanted and fall in our own groups. The route was around 9 km. and we had to reach our destination by 4.00 in the evening.

Grahan is actually a small village and the last populated place on the trek. The way is through lush green forest and we were walking upstream on a river, waterfalls could also be spotted along the way. The route was fairly easy and we had a nice time going close to the river wherever it offered a patch safe enough. At midday we had lunch in a group of around ten near the river. Imagine the joy of drinking cool water straight from it! However, we were in for a surprise as the last two kilometers were steep uphill. Being moderately fit, I had no problem in completing it. Upon arrival we were greeted by the camp leaders and were offered tea, snacks and a little later soup. The idea is to force us to drink plenty of water. It was still daylight when we had dinner. At sundown it was time for campfire and then bed. All the twelve girls were in one tent and my husband in another, but then we were on a trek and not a honeymoon, so I didn't mind. Next day after breakfast we were off to Padri.

Grahan to Padri: This was the easiest day we had in the entire trek. The route was again scenic, through forest, dotted with purple Iris and giving a better view of the snowcapped peaks that were visible through our base camp. In Padri there is grassland where locals graze their animals. We kept meeting them on the way. Our tents were also pitched in the same grassland. From here on, call of the nature has to be answered in the open. The view around this grassland was smashing. In the distance was Pin Parvati again looming high and covered in snow in patches. Watching sun set on it was an amazing experience. There were flat rocks throughout the ground and sitting on one, I was having my dinner with my husband watching the sunset. We were wondering what a resort would charge for a view like this! Then I guess for such views we have to take some trouble and go near them.

By this time all of us were settled in our own groups. My husband and I would keep together for most of the time but we would often walk between this group from Bhopal (a city in MP state) and another one from Gujrat and would join them whenever we wanted or they cared for. By the end of the trek we were exchanging addresses. Again after sundown it was time for bed and early off to next day to Ratapani. Till Padri we were following arrow marks and walking on our own.

Snow Snow Everywhere

Sliding Down at Sar Pass

Footprints on Snow

Walking Fron Nagaru to Biskeri Via Sar Pass

Padri to Ratapani: From here on, the way is uphill and the distance traveled roughly 10 kilometers everyday. The route becomes increasingly beautiful as we are gaining height. The flora has started changing again and there are flowers of different kind now. We are almost at the snowline. It has also started raining. We were enjoying ourselves at a stream when rain hit us hard for the first time. All of us went into our rain sheets but still it is uncomfortable. Fortunately the rain did not last long. From Padri up to this point of stream we had a guide with us (a local villager) as the forest was dense.

The local people set up small tea stalls along all the camps, and we were eagerly looking forward to this one. After hot cups of tea, we started again to our destination. The way was again uphill till the end but it was manageable. The view from the camp side was breathtaking. Tents were pitched in a flat piece of land. Next to it were rocks of medium size and beyond it stretched completely snow covered peaks of Himalayas. We were told that they look magnificent when the sun rises from behind, and I agree as I saw them in the morning.

It rained heavily in the evening but a few of us were in the tea stall tent next to our camp and we enjoyed the rain and the view for quite some time. We had to eat inside the tent as it was still raining till dinner time and we could see the snow falling in the distance. After sometime the rain stopped and we were out again till we felt like sleeping. The next day we were off to Nagaru, the most famous and feared campsite.

Ratapani to Nagaru: Ngaru is the gateway to Sar Pass. Nagaru is where wind speed is so high that at times it has blown off the tents (we were told this by none other than the Camp director at the base). Nagaru is where there is snow everywhere. We started from Ratapani around 9.00 am. The way is completely uphill. We had lunch at a particularly beautiful spot. What I remember most is watching an eagle circle below us is huge graceful sweep for quite sometime. I am used to looking up at them from the ground and not sitting above them! It was incredible. It was also along this route that we saw snow close at hand for the first time in this trek and for me in life! It was a dirty brown patch of old snow but still I went off route to touch it and stand by it for some time. It rained on this day too but not heavily. However, there were patches of snow that were melting and it caused some problem to get over it. As I turned one last bent for Nagaru, it was just white everywhere. We were finally in snow. I was jumping all over, but not literally, as it was so slippery. A few of our group members guided me through.

The view from the campsite cannot be described in words. I was told by someone “ma'am look that way, you are in heaven.” I had to agree with that young chap. The campsite is small, one way leads back to Ratapani, other to Saar pass. The rest were steep falls and miles and miles of snow and high peaks. Though initially the weather was full of mist it cleared eventually. Along the tents was freshly fallen snow. In middle a rock that is considered holy by the locals. All of us were fooling around in the snow and trying to learn how to walk on it without falling. The temperature was freezing. After the usual tea and soup, we were told to hurry up or it might start snowing again. The serving staff added maybe for ten hours. I replied that “it may, but why are you scaring us off?” He smiled and said “no, I can't see you scared.” Well I was not.

Frozen Sar Pass

Biskeri

Another View from Biskeri

In this camp we are packed off to bed at 7.30 in the evening as we have to get up at 3.00 in the morning and try to leave as early as we can, so that we can cross the pass before snow starts melting. So by 4.30 we were off and we had two guides with us, taking us every inch of the way.

Nagaru via Sar Pass to Biskeri: The initial part of the trek was smooth. The most stupid thing I did on this trek was not to wear a proper trekking shoe but a jogger. It was payback time.

The incredible thing is that a person puts a tea stall even in this region! He treks with us and goes back after a point. A stray dog came with us all the way from base camp to base camp!

After this tea stall I found that my grip was not so sure and at two spots, one of the guides literally held my hand and see me through, leaving a huge dent in my ego. I blamed my husband heavily for not advising me properly for the trekking shoes as he had walked on snow before and knew what it would be like. But what made me forget all this was the slides.

By this time we were walking in snow and all over were high peaks of snow and more snow. There was a very light snowfall along the way. Peaks of other famous mountains like Deo Tibba are visible from here. The highest point we touched was 14,000 feet. The climb at certain point in this route is such that we have to sit and slide down on the fall, it is impossible to walk on the other side of it. Sitting on snow and sliding through is to be experienced and not described. There were three such slides and the last one puts us on the way to the other camp Biskeri. It was the sliding that made me forget my miserable shoes and slipping on snow.

After this third slide we are on our own again and out of snow. The peaks are around but we are not walking on it. At the end of this slide is canteen too, where we hogged on Maggi (noodles) and omelet before starting again.

Biskeri is called the royal campsite of the Sar Pass trek. The small flat land of campsite is surrounded by snow covered peaks in a distance. The stream that we used for drinking purposes and cleaning had small flowers all around it, yellow and red. The setting sun would give glowing colors to the peaks. After dinner I lingered for a long time outside before going to bed.

Biskeri to Bandaktach: This was our last campsite. The route was downhill and we took it easy. The snow capped peaks were still with us. This campsite again is very beautiful with tents pitched in a small grass land and snow covered peaks all around. It rained for sometime but when it cleared it was beautiful. Late in the night there was a faint moon glowing and stars lit the sky. Next day we were off to our base camp again and back to roads and civilization. The funny thing is that river Parvati was still flowing as majestically and the Pin Parvati peaks were still there at the base camp but it was not enough. I had seen so much more, that I will surely return for another trek in the Himalayas, but in some other region as there is so much to see.

Before I wind off this one peeve that I have with YHAI, due to some reason I did not find them friendly to couples and by that I mean even married couples. Girls were always asked to walk in the front and men at the back. It was OK as we would walk as we please as soon as we were out of the campsite but I wonder why this was required. Anyway the magical pathway we took and the care YHAI took about our food, sleeping bags and tents (of course we would clean up the tent before leaving but that was the minimum expected of us), was an excellent introduction

An Attempt to Trek in the Markha Valley, Ladakh and a Story

When we went to Ladakh this year in June 2005, our aim was to trek from Spitok to Hemis, which is also known as Markha Valley trek. After two days of taking rest in Leh, we started the trek. The first day itself, I developed a violently upset stomach. To tell you the truth, I guess the damage was done in New Delhi itself when I ate mushroom Momos in Connaught Place. But generally, I have a very strong stomach and I did not pay too much attention to the rumblings from New Delhi.

So on the first day of trek as we were camping in a place called Zinchen, I was paying many visits to answer the nature's call. My husband was getting worried and he started asking me if we should head back? I wanted to continue. So, we walked for the second day, and I was walking like a zombie. Still, we reached Rumbak and camped there. My stomach was not too well even now. We decided that we would walk for one more day and see what happens after that. The above photograph is from the third day of walk. We started early in the morning from Rumbak to Ganda-La base. We must have walked for at least three to four hours (OK, we walk slowly, locals will cover the same distance in probably less than an hour) and then we discovered just this house, standing all alone in the wilderness. It is at least one hour’s walk from Rumbak (the place has no motorable road, though locals can use a pony) and on the other side, the nearest habitation is at least four to five hours walk away. Again, there is no other means of transport, apart from a pony. Can you imagine living in such a place?

The lady in the picture was working in the field in front of the house. She very kindly posed for me twice and was quite delighted to see her snap on the LCD screen of my camera. Nearby, a much younger woman was washing a few vessels in a stream and a young kid was playing next to her. The tea stall for trekkers on this route was run by a couple of this house. In all, probably they are five people living together (or maybe more, I cannot be sure, but how big can the number be?) in this house, away from everything. I wonder how it would be like.
As, for our trekking the Markha Valley, we had to return from Ganda-La base, a little distance ahead from this house, as I just could not recover from my bad stomach. I was very disappointed but Ladakh is so beautiful and the other places that we visited, made up for the unfinished trek.

Off the Beaten Track

My husband has a penchant for walking on any Indian mountain trail that diverts from the main road. I am usually given two options- either to walk with him or wait for him in the hotel room.

Otherwise he is a pretty sane person. But as soon as he sees a mountain trail in the Himalayas all logic deserts him. Till date I have always dragged my feet along with him.

We were walking in Dalhousie (India) once at the forest reserve Kala Top. He spotted a dirt road and wanted to follow it. Thankfully, a forest reserve officer came to my rescue. He told us we cannot go there without a guide. We returned back to our hotel. But the respite proved to be short lived. Next day, my husband found a guide and we marched about 12 kilometers through forest from Kala Top to Khajjiyar. No doubt Khajjiyar is very beautiful but it can also be reached by bus or taxi from Dalhousie or Kala Top in less than half an hour. But not when my husband is around.

Next time it happened when we were walking around Renuka Lake near Nahan. Again, he saw a dirt road leading to a Parashuram Temple ahead at 10 kilometers. Again we took that road after a feeble attempt on my part to protest. After 8 kilometers uphill, I was completely spent. My husband of course saw the temple, which anyway was just an excuse. We did not find any lunch on the way. So I logged a total of 16 kilometer that day on an empty stomach. I had the best tasting Maggi noodles and omelet that evening once we came back to our hotel.

It happened at to me Chail and Almora too. The only time my husband admitted defeat was at Jageshwar when I started feeling giddy and refused to move an inch. Little wonder then, that soon after we have graduated to full time trekking.