The Bakri Wala (shepherd) at the Markha Valley, Ladakh

Pangong Lake, Ladakh

I somehow feel like blogging about an old incident today. We went to Ladakh in June 2005. The plan was to trek through the Markha Valley. We completed the first day's trek upto Jhinchan successfully but then the trouble began. I developed a thoroughly upset stomach. We continued for small distances for the next two days, and camped at Rumbak and then Ganda-La base. But the stomach showed no sign of improving. On the third day we decided to ditch the trek as I was not getting any better. Actually, it was Sesha who insisted that we have to turn back.

On our way back, there was a tricky spot. We had to cross a river and we had a lot of trouble crossing it while going to Rumbak. The flow of the river was a lot and we were wondering what to do. Our ponyman told us to follow a particular gravel track and he went ahead. It must have been a stretch of not more than 800 meters. Part of the way was quite fine and we had no trouble. Then the gravel became very loose and I started slipping. It was not at all dangerous as I would have gradually gone to the bank of the river but at the moment I was a bit dazed. To break slipping any more I just sat down and both and Sesha and I were wondering what to do next! Suddenly out of nowhere came a Bakri wala (Shepherd), smiled at me and asked "aap ka haath pakad kar nikal dun?" (Shall I take your hand and get you across?) And that is what we exactly did. He got me safely across and then went his way.

I still remember the incident so clearly and whenever I think about it I marvel at the timing of his apperance and feel a lot of gratitude.

An Attempt to Trek in the Markha Valley, Ladakh and a Story

Near Ganda-La, Ladakh

When we went to Ladakh this year in June 2005, our aim was to trek from Spitok to Hemis, which is also known as Markha Valley trek. After two days of taking rest in Leh, we started the trek. The first day itself, I developed a violently upset stomach. To tell you the truth, I guess the damage was done in New Delhi itself when I ate mushroom Momos in Connaught Place. But generally, I have a very strong stomach and I did not pay too much attention to the rumblings from New Delhi.

So on the first day of trek as we were camping in a place called Zinchen, I was paying many visits to answer the nature's call. My husband was getting worried and he started asking me if we should head back? I wanted to continue. So, we walked for the second day, and I was walking like a zombie. Still, we reached Rumbak and camped there. My stomach was not too well even now. We decided that we would walk for one more day and see what happens after that. The above photograph is from the third day of walk. We started early in the morning from Rumbak to Ganda-La base. We must have walked for at least three to four hours (OK, we walk slowly, locals will cover the same distance in probably less than an hour) and then we discovered just this house, standing all alone in the wilderness. It is at least one hour’s walk from Rumbak (the place has no motorable road, though locals can use a pony) and on the other side, the nearest habitation is at least four to five hours walk away. Again, there is no other means of transport, apart from a pony. Can you imagine living in such a place?

Lady near Ganda- La, Ladakh

The lady in the picture was working in the field in front of the house. She very kindly posed for me twice and was quite delighted to see her snap on the LCD screen of my camera. Nearby, a much younger woman was washing a few vessels in a stream and a young kid was playing next to her. The tea stall for trekkers on this route was run by a couple of this house. In all, probably they are five people living together (or maybe more, I cannot be sure, but how big can the number be?) in this house, away from everything. I wonder how it would be like.
As, for our trekking the Markha Valley, we had to return from Ganda-La base, a little distance ahead from this house, as I just could not recover from my bad stomach. I was very disappointed but Ladakh is so beautiful and the other places that we visited, made up for the unfinished trek.

Markha Valley Trek, Ladakh, India

Near Ganda-La, Ladakh (Photo uploaded in Augutst 2009)

I will be doing the Markha Valley trek in Ladakh (India) this June. I was searching google to see what others have to say about it. From the number of travel tour operaters offering the Markha Valley trek it seems half the world would be doing it. I hope it is not going to get crowded even there. But, maybe I am getting worried needlessly. Crowd in Delhi is one thing and it should mean something else altogether in Ladakh. At least that is what I hope for.

The idea of the trek, for us, is to escape the crowd which we find in plenty almost everywhere in India. I am a bit worried about high altitude sickness though. Still, the thought of sleeping in a tent again and living right in the middle of nature's splender for atleast fifteen days does manage to sooth my worry ridden mind. But the question is for how long after coming back from Markha and Ladakh? I hope for a long long time, till I find more peaceful employment. Boy! if you have stayed in a bad job you will probably understand what I mean.