Thursday, July 28, 2005

Save Tibet: A Banner in Leh


Tibetan Market, Leh

I have to confess I do not know much about the situation in Tibet. I know things are not right and many people, including his Holiness the Dalai Lama, are living in India. When I went to Ladakh this summer, I met people from Tibet, heard about them, interacted with them and bought a few souvenirs from them. I thought I will post this photograph of a banner outside a makeshift Tibetan market in Leh today.

The little that could gather from talking with people, it seems Ladakhi people are fine with Tibetans and they live in harmony. I had a long chat with one young girl, sitting on the steps of a Stupa in the main market, Leh. She felt that Tibet itself was to be blamed to a certain extent for the position it has landed in, because it followed a policy of isolation at one point of time and when it got occupied by China, nobody noticed. I have no clue how things have come to the present impasse. She told me that she was born in India and has never been to Tibet but if possible, she would like to go there one day. Her brother was doing graduation on scholarship in London.

Many of you would know much more about Tibet, maybe you can share it on this space too.

I also wanted to share with you all that a small mention of my blog was on the Guardian today, have a look.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/online/story/0,3605,1537030,00.html


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Wednesday, July 27, 2005

Ladakhi Ladies and a Guest in the Main Market, Leh


In the Main Market, Leh, India

I was quite fascinated by this group of ladies selling vegetables in the main market. I wanted to photograph them but my husband kept protesting, lets go and eat first, take it later, they will say no and like that. I walked a short distance ahead and then turned back, not being able to resist it any more. I went close to them and asked in Hindi, 'Can I take your photograph?' The lady in the blue jacket (third from the right) was quite brusque and told me no. I was somewhat taken aback. I started walking back to where my husband was standing.

As I took a few steps she called me back and asked if I was interested in taking her photo alone or I would take of the entire group? I told her I was interesting in clicking the entire group. To my delight she said, then it was no problem. Now the Main Market, Leh is a tourist magnet. Some other people could sense an opportunity but being from other countries they did not had my Hindi advantage. A couple of them asked me if they too could take a photograph? I asked the ladies and they said it is OK. One of the guests quickly sat with them and all of us were merrily taking pictures.

At another occasion I met a very interesting group of old ladies at the steps of a Stupa, while a prayer service was going inside. I asked them if I could take their photograph and they said no, and the answer remained no till the end. Well, I guess I cannot win them all.
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Monday, July 25, 2005

Useless Wali: Now What Was That?

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A Shop in the Main Market, Leh, India

Roaming in the main market in Leh, the capital of Ladakh we spotted this curious signboard on the shop selling souvenirs. We were quite amused and decided to take a photograph. I have not figured out till date what 'Useless Wali,' and that too Regd, means. The curious thing was, we saw the same sign 'Useless Wali' on another shop too. Maybe 'Wali' means 'road' in Ladakhi? I am not sure. Even if, 'Wali' means road, why Useless? I wonder if anyone who has been to Ladakh has a better clue.

I have a few other such photographs and will post them here later. I somehow feel such signs rather than being odd, added to the charm and mystique of the place.
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Sunday, July 24, 2005

Monks with a Cellpone!

Go
In Ladakh

Seesh! Never in my wildest dreams I imagined that my blog would get featured on the BBC. If you are as clueless as I was a little while ago, have a look at


  • This!


  • The two people who introduced me to blogs are my sis Alka and her husband, my dear brother-in-law, Amrit. My many thanks to them for introducing me to this wonderful world and being gentle with me when I wrote something, deleted it and again created a new website. They stood by it all.


  • Alka's Blog


  • Amrit's Blog


  • Now, let me go on with my travel tales. When I went to Ladakh I wanted to take photographs of people there. I often go to a very impressive website appropriately called 'GoNOMAD.'


  • GoNOMAD's Website


  • There I read an article about how to go about taking photographs of people in the regions we visit. It had a basic but a very good idea (I am sure it had much more, but this is what impressed me most) that one should ask for permission from people before taking their pictures. I followed this advice with all my heart and found that many people agreed to get photographed in Ladakh.

    The first time I tried it and was given permission was the photo above. It may not be very clear but the gentleman at the rightmost corner is holding a cell phone. I was impressed. I met the group on my way on foot, to the Leh palace and the stupa, situated right in the heart of the city. We had an interesting conversation when I asked them if I could take their photograph. The monk with the cell phone said, "But why do you want to photograph us, boring people?" I pleaded, "Please let me, please." He then told me, "OK, whatever makes you happy. If that is what that makes you happy, you should go back to your place happy." I thanked them again and again.
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    Friday, July 22, 2005

    Hotel Times

    I love traveling and we try to get out at least twice a year, if not more. We travel within India; foreign tourism is just too expensive for our pockets. Even within India, we are budget travelers. I like my hotel room to cost somewhere around Rupees 500 to 1000 (one dollar is roughly equal to 45 rupees) in more touristy places and less than 500 in less touristy places. It is rare that I shell out more than 1000 rupees for a room but there have been occasions when we have done that too.

    In India, what I have found out is that hotel business is run pretty much by individuals and there is an absence of hotel chains or groups in mid-priced or even in lower priced rooms. Some of things that are constant across budget hotel rooms is:

    If, there is a carpet the probability is very high that it will stink. This experience has been repeated so many times that I now prefer staying in rooms without carpets. There have been a few exceptions to this rule but then the hotels are usually new and their carpets have just not gathered enough dirt as of now. I remember visiting Auli (those days I did not had a digital camera, so no good quality photos to upload). There are just two accommodations available, a private resort and a government owned facility. We stayed in the government owned facility and all the rooms (highest to lowest priced dormitories) gave out such a stench. So much so, for getting better facilities for a price.

    A friend made a comment once, all a traveler needs is a clean bed and some hot water. Let me add, minus the stench of the carpet. My second pet peeve is about hot water. Many a times there will be water but not hot. Some hotels charge extra for giving you a bucket of hot water. But remember I am talking about budget hotels here. My traveling life could become a lot easy if Indian budget hotels understood this basic need. I remember paying Rupees 1000 for a room and getting no water in the toilet for many hours in a day. Repeated complaints brought no improvement and we had to shifted to another hotel within a day.

    Toilets and bathrooms are the most neglected areas in Indian budget hotels. The lesser said about them the better.

    The attitude also of the owners sometimes can be so unprofessional. They may not think twice about disturbing you in the morning hours just to inquire whether you are leaving that day before the check out time or not. We had a knock at 7.00 a.m. in the morning in Manali and told very bluntly to vacate the room by 12.00 noon. Why the hell at 7.00 a.m.? And what is the need for rudeness?

    I wish I took a few photographs of the hotel rooms too in this trip to Ladakh, they would have substantiated my claim.

    I also feel that whatever I said above is on an average is true of the more touristy places. In smaller places, the rooms might not be clean and the carpet may still stink but people are not rude.

    I have stayed in budget hotels at Modena (Italy), Groningen (The Netherlands) and Athens (Greece) and of course my rooms were small and did not offer me a view but they were spotlessly clean, at least the first two. In Athens, the room was not as good as the other two but in Indian terms, it was superb. Oh! And I visited these places for academic conferences (that means most of the time, sponsorship) but did manage to see a few places too.

    What has been your favorite hotel horror story?

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    Wednesday, July 20, 2005

    Another View of the Manali-Leh Highway


    See it for yourself!

    What I wrote about in my last post, here is a picture of it. You can see how the road is! And the amount of water that is visible on this patch is nothing, it could look like a small stream flowing. But how beautiful it is! Any given day I will like to go back.
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    Monday, July 18, 2005

    On the Top: Leh-Manali Highway, at Pang


    Checking if everything is still there?

    This photograph is taken at Pang, on Leh-Manali route. The tents in the picture are food tents. We started our journey back from Leh at 5.00 am. The bus made a stop at 7.00 am and I had tea, and after that nothing. So when these tents came in sight around 2.00 pm I was famished and tried beyond words. This tiredness comes from the condition of the road.

    I was sitting on the window and looking out for most of the journey. It was difficult to believe that the road could contain a bus, it was so narrow. Not only was it narrow, the curves seemed impossible to negotiate. But the state transport driver did all that and more.

    At one point in our journey, our way was blocked by a Tata Sumo as it got stuck on that part of the road where water was pouring from the melting snow. Whatever tricks the driver tried the vehicle refused to budge. It crossed my mind that we might be forced to spend night at this spot freezing in the night. After watching the proceedings for a while our bus driver asked us all in and told us to go to the back of the bus and stand there in a group. He will try to cross the patch.

    My heart was thudding in my mouth as the bus lurched forward swaying crazily. After a few anxious moments, which seemed like ages then, we were out in the clear. I am so glad this happened only once in the entire journey.
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    Sunday, July 17, 2005

    Trees and Some Snow: Har-Ki-Doon, Uttaranchal India


    Who took this photo?

    There is a dispute about this picture in my house, my young and naughty nephew claims he took it whereas I remember taking this one myself. Either way, both of us remember this beautiful trip. My nephew saw snow for the first time on this trip and I for the second time in my life. But walking on snow is altogether a different affair.

    I remember my first trek to Sar Pass, in Himanchal Pradesh. In that trek for one whole day we walked on snow. Then trekking for the first time, I was wearing my city shoes, a sneaker and how I slipped for the entire day! I blame my husband for it. He had trekked before and yet did not warn me to wear a proper shoe! The second time around at Har-Ki-Doon, I was wise and wore what locals wear, something called 'hunter shoes' and it has pretty amazing grip, so slipping on snow is now a thing of past. But it is also true that there was very little snow on the way in 2004 in Har-Ki-Doon.
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    Friday, July 15, 2005

    Har-Ki-Doon, Uttranchal, India


    A Walk Through the Paddy Fields

    We trekked in Har-Ki-Doon Valley in the year 2004 though Youth Hostel Association of India (YHAI). The picture was taken on the route from Seema to Har-Ki-Doon. I still remember our walk through the paddy fields. On the way we met some women working on the field and their sweet smiles. Living for a few days in nature, when there is no electricity and the source of water is a stream or a river, is my idea of paradise. Of course, the food was provided by the YHAI kitchen at various camps.
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    Wednesday, July 13, 2005

    The People of Ladakh: Toni and my Husband pose for me



    What I enjoyed most in Ladakh was the conversations with the locals, when it happened. My husband was buying a second hand 'down' jacket. He asked the shopkeeper, "Mein kaise maan lun ki ye down hai?" (How do I believe you it is actually down). The shopkeeper's reply still rings in my ears. He said, "Mere paas kuch he aur din hai fir upar jana hai, mein aapko dokha kyon dunga?" (I have only a few days left here then I have to go from this world, why I will cheat you). Can't remember when I heard such a conversation in my daily life!

    The name of our young driver on the trip from Leh to the Pangong Lake was a Toni (In the picture above, with goggles). He has a colorful personality and he drove the jeep like a rally driver. I wonder why nobody things of training these chaps for F1, no seriously. But behind the colorful personality is an extremely composed mind.

    He was telling me he takes the jeep from Leh to Manali and they have to come back empty, because from there Himanchal Pradesh drivers come full (and they go back empty from Leh). So I asked him why doesn't he gets some passengers and take the money, on the way back (tourists know that JK number vehicles will take them for less if they are somehow approached). He said, "Jeep wala naa bhi dekhe tou kya, uparwala tou dekhta hai" (Even though the jeep owner may not know, but the One sitting above can see). I was completely taken aback.

    Now that I am back to my usual grind, I thought I should write this down, before I forget.
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    Tuesday, July 12, 2005

    The Road Less Traveled: Manali-Leh Highway


    If you are traveling to Leh by road it may turn out to be much more than you bargained for. For me it led to philosophical ponderings about my existence or the continuation of it!

    One can reach Ladakh (Ladakh is in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, but not a troubled region) either by air or by road. We decided to travel by road. There are two ways to reach Ladakh by road. One is the Srinagar-Leh highway and the other Manali-Leh highway. We decided to go by the Manali-Leh highway, as Manali is closer to New Delhi.

    Delhi to Manali
    From New Delhi, Manali is a 16-hour bus journey, which left us really tired. The 2X2 luxury buss was not so luxurious and various lumps in a seat that would not recline properly haunted me. Then we stayed for two days in Manali.

    Manali to Leh
    From Manali to Leh is 450 km, which we covered by jeep in a single day. One can book an entire jeep but it is costly (Rupees 10,000 upwards, or one can buy a seat which works out much cheaper at Rupees 1100 but cramped).

    I developed a new respect for the humble Tata Sumo jeep through this journey. They ply in highest numbers on this route. It is meant to take 3 people in the middle row, two in front and four in the back. The taxi operators take two to three in the front, four in the middle and four in the back. The journey begins at 2 am and ends at 8 pm, making it 18 hours in a row and this is what we did. It is extremely tiring and a very foolish way to travel from Manali to Leh. The journey was uncomfortable because we were seated four on a seat meant for three and both my husband and I have motion sickness. We take medicine for it and though it keeps nausea at bay, it leaves us very sleepy and gorgy. However, the scenery on the way is spectacular and not to be missed for anything. We arrived in Leh dead tried, found a hotel, dumped our luggage and started looking for a restaurant to eat.

    Is there a better way?
    There is a better way to travel by road and that is to break the journey into two days and take a night halt on the way. Government buses (which are much cheaper than the jeep, at Rupees 525 this season) ply on the route and this is what we did on our return journey. But we found that the buses move much more slowly and they take too much time to reach the night halt and the total time spent increases a lot. So, we concluded that if one has to reach Ladakh by road one has to pay the price in terms of being very tired, even turning philosophical. With hindsight, probably the best way to travel to Ladakh is to go by road only one way and take the flight the other way round, if possible.

    But I have to say it was one road trip, which I will remember and brag about shamelessly. After all traveling from Manali to Leh by road is not for the fainthearted. Posted by Picasa

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    Sunday, July 10, 2005

    The Changla Pass, Ladakh, at 17, 800 feet.


    We could barely breathe at this altitude!

    In order to visit The Pangong Lake, one has to cross the second highest motorable road in the world at 17, 800 feet. The experience is amazing, most of the time you are gasping for breath. Breathtaking views all around. Posted by Picasa

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    Friday, July 08, 2005

    A View of the Pangong Lake in Ladakh, India


    A must see place?

    The Pangong lake is 150 km away from Leh. One has to hire a taxi (preferably shared, as it reduces the cost) for this journey. One the way one crosses the mighty Changla pass, the second highest motor able road in the world at 17800 feet. The lake forms a border between India and China. One third of the lake is in India and the rest in China.

    I can only wonder how the other lake in Ladakh , Tso Mo Ri Ri would be like? I could not visit it but I will go back someday.
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    Thursday, July 07, 2005

    Words that Have Appeal: From Greenpeace Website

    I do like writing about other things, and not just travel. But as of now, I want to maintain only one blog. So here it goes.

    I was reading the Greenpeace website and found a few words on it extremely jolting.

    Consuming ever more things is an unsatisfying and harmful way to try to be happy and fulfilled. Human happiness is not related to what people buy, but to who we are and how we relate to each other.

    http://www.mcspotlight.org/beyond/companies/bs_ref.html
    From Greenpeace website (paragraph 5 of the article).

    Drowned in advertisements, this sounds like a sane piece of advise.

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    Wednesday, July 06, 2005

    Manali: The Plastic Heaven

    A few days back, I was in a famous hill station in India, Manali. It has got a cool climate, fabulous hills and trees, apart from other attractions. It draws a large number of people for the holiday season. With it comes the malaise of plastic and cans thrown all around and drowning the place. Every touristy road is littered with wrappers of chips and cola cans and much more. So much, so that after a while plastic litter is the dominant thing about the place that one notices. Needless to add that it detracts so much from the charm of the place. I will never think of visiting Manali for a vacation, at least, not in the tourist season (this time I was there because it is on the way to Ladakh).

    And one wonders what is the way out? All those who keep their homes spotlessly clean, litter with abandon on the streets! One day, if I have the time and the money, I wish to form a group of volunteers and clean up a small area in some place (or as large as we can) after the tourist season is over.

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    Monday, July 04, 2005

    A Few Photos from Ladakh

    Recently I visited Ladakh and some of the photos from the trip can be found at

    http://community.webshots.com/album/384679323wvHhFU

    Aren't they Nice?

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    Sunday, July 03, 2005

    Monks monks Everywhere: In the Middle of the Main Market, Leh, india


    This was our last day in Ladakh. My husband had to buy something from the local market called Moti Market. I was too tried. I sat on the steps opposite this monastery with other Tibetan people. I was reading a book and inside a prayer meeting was going on. The place was vibrating with chants. A mess was set up and they were cooking something delicious inside. Soon, something was being served. I was asked if I would like to have some of the liquid. I said yes and started drinking the white looking stuff and it was like nothing I ever tasted before. Soon, a young girl asked if I would care for a refill? I agreed and she started chatting with me. She is a Tibetan and has studied Library Science at Pune. She would like to work in a school at Leh. I asked her what the drink was and she told me it was Tibetan tea, made of butter and special tea leaves. Enjoyable, is what I have to say.
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    Pang, Ladakh


    Pang food tents, on the way from Manali to Ladakh. After 300 km of jeep ride, we definitely were hungry but there were 150 km to go after this spot to reach Ladakh finally. Posted by Picasa

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    Friday, July 01, 2005

    Sunset: Ladakh


    This is Ladakh! Posted by Picasa

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