Visiting Sikkim in December: FAQ
After coming back from the Kuari Pass Trek in June, 2006 I was restless as to where would we go in December. When a colleague suggested Sikkim, I liked the idea and when I told him, so did Sesha. But my biggest worry was, "Would I freeze to death in Sikkim in December?" "Would there be too much snow?" Of course, I searched on the inetrnet and was reassured that people do go to Sikkim in December and come back to tell the tale.
So, now that I am back I decided to do a FAQ for going to Sikkim in December.
Q. Is December the right month to visit Sikkim? Will it be too cold?
A. Right month would depend on what you want to do in Sikkim. Flowers would not be in bloom but most of the tourist areas are accessible in December and less crowded. So if December is the only time you can manage to get those leaves, a visit to Sikkim is possible.
At lower regions like Pelling and Gangtok, it was not really that cold in December. Pelling is at a height of 6,800 feet (2,085 m) and Gangtok has an altitude of 5,840 feet (1769 m). The weather forecast may say that temperatures vary from 15 degree Celsius (high) to 0 degree (lowest) in December. The thing is that days are quite sunny and 15 degree does not feel bad. 0 degree happens (if at all) when you are safely tucked inside a bed at night. Of course, heavy woolens are required but I could keep the cold at bay by using multiple layer of clothing and a heavy jacket. And I am a person who finds cold extremely difficult to handle. So, my feeling is that at places like Pelling and Gangtok, December is quite OK.
In fact, it became quite crowded in Gangtok from 25th December to 31 December. Since we do not book our hotels in advances, that gave us a mild anxiety attack but there were still vacant rooms available in Gangtok in December.
So, now that I am back I decided to do a FAQ for going to Sikkim in December.
Q. Is December the right month to visit Sikkim? Will it be too cold?
A. Right month would depend on what you want to do in Sikkim. Flowers would not be in bloom but most of the tourist areas are accessible in December and less crowded. So if December is the only time you can manage to get those leaves, a visit to Sikkim is possible.
At lower regions like Pelling and Gangtok, it was not really that cold in December. Pelling is at a height of 6,800 feet (2,085 m) and Gangtok has an altitude of 5,840 feet (1769 m). The weather forecast may say that temperatures vary from 15 degree Celsius (high) to 0 degree (lowest) in December. The thing is that days are quite sunny and 15 degree does not feel bad. 0 degree happens (if at all) when you are safely tucked inside a bed at night. Of course, heavy woolens are required but I could keep the cold at bay by using multiple layer of clothing and a heavy jacket. And I am a person who finds cold extremely difficult to handle. So, my feeling is that at places like Pelling and Gangtok, December is quite OK.
In fact, it became quite crowded in Gangtok from 25th December to 31 December. Since we do not book our hotels in advances, that gave us a mild anxiety attack but there were still vacant rooms available in Gangtok in December.
Zero Point (Altitude 14,600 feet, 4450m), Beyond Yumthang Valley, North SikkimQ. Will a trip to Yumthang be possible in December or the routes get closed due to snow?
A. No, the routes do not normally close. We were able to visit Yumthang (11800 feet, 3596m) in December without any difficulty. In fact, there was no snow at the Yumthang valley itself. To see the snow, we had to go to what is called as 'Zero Point' (14,600 feet, 4450m). It is definitely much more colder at these heights. But Yumthang valley and Zero Point do not offer accommodation. One has to visit the area and come back. So, wrap yourself properly and when it becomes too cold outside crawl back into the vehicle that took you there. Our shared jeep group could take Zero Point only for 45 minutes but that was enough for everyone of us. For my visit (December 28, 2006) there was not really any need to wear snow boots in the area.
A. No, the routes do not normally close. We were able to visit Yumthang (11800 feet, 3596m) in December without any difficulty. In fact, there was no snow at the Yumthang valley itself. To see the snow, we had to go to what is called as 'Zero Point' (14,600 feet, 4450m). It is definitely much more colder at these heights. But Yumthang valley and Zero Point do not offer accommodation. One has to visit the area and come back. So, wrap yourself properly and when it becomes too cold outside crawl back into the vehicle that took you there. Our shared jeep group could take Zero Point only for 45 minutes but that was enough for everyone of us. For my visit (December 28, 2006) there was not really any need to wear snow boots in the area.

Sunrise at Lachung (Altitude 8800 feet, 2682 m), North, Sikkim
The place where night accomodation is offered on the Yumthang trip is usually Lachung (8800 feet, 2682 m) and I found it cold. But we carry good sleeping bags with us and I use it in addition to the hotel supply of quilts. This is also due to the fact that I find cold extremely difficult to handle. The hotel rooms at Lachung are very basic and not heated.
Q. Will a trip to Nathu-La be possible in December or the routes get closed due to snow?
A. A trip to Nathu-La is possible in December, the routes are open. However, as the Sikkim Government Website informs us "Nathula is open only for Indian nationals on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. The visitors have to get the permit to visit the place by applying to the Tourism Department through a registered Travel Agency." For the Indian nationals, the trip is possible. On my visit (December 30, 2006) there was no need to wear snow boots in the area.
Q. Can foreigners visit Nathu-La, the India China border?
A. If you look at the Sikkim governemnt website link above, it says as of now Nathu-La is open only to Indian nationals on specific days (look under the Nathu-La section).
Q. Will the Tsomgo lake (also known as Changu Lake) be frozen in December?
A. Tsomgo/Changu Lake is on the way to Nathu-La and the tourist jeeps make a stop here for lunch (even otherwise). On my trip (December 30, 2006) it was not frozen. However, a friend who visited Sikkim in February said it was frozen then. I had my lunch here on my way back from Nathu-La, and I found it really cold but bearable. Also, while going we made a brief stop and the weather was clear. On the way back, a thick fog had developed and I could not take anymore pictures of the lake due to the fog.
Q. Can foreigners visit Tsomgo/Changu Lake in Sikkim?
A. Again, quoting from the Sikkim government website, "Foreign visitors have to be in a group of two or more and have to apply for the visitors permit through a registered travel agency." (look under the Tsomgo Lake section).
Q. Do I need to book al the tours before reaching Sikkim in December?
A. That depends on your comfort level. We did not pre-book hotels, or tours for Yumthang and Nathu-La (December 2006) and had no problem with anything. But we are backpackers. So, if you do not want to pre-book from your city, it is OK. We asked for a trip to Yumthang for next day and we had no problem in getting the permit.
Nathu-La is open only on specific days,so the trip requires a little bit of extra planning. For example I booked my 30th December tour to Nathu-La on 27th December and got the permit.
If you have any other question for going to Sikkim in December, please leave a comment. I would try to answer it as soon as possible.
Note:
Also, the information above should be treated with caution, as the guidelines and rules of the Indian government could change.
The weather is a fickle thing and what is true in 2006 may not remain the same in other years. Also, what is reasonably cold for one person may not be so for another. I have tried to give you my impressions an hope that it may help you for planning a trip to Sikkim in December.
Q. Will a trip to Nathu-La be possible in December or the routes get closed due to snow?
A. A trip to Nathu-La is possible in December, the routes are open. However, as the Sikkim Government Website informs us "Nathula is open only for Indian nationals on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. The visitors have to get the permit to visit the place by applying to the Tourism Department through a registered Travel Agency." For the Indian nationals, the trip is possible. On my visit (December 30, 2006) there was no need to wear snow boots in the area.
Q. Can foreigners visit Nathu-La, the India China border?
A. If you look at the Sikkim governemnt website link above, it says as of now Nathu-La is open only to Indian nationals on specific days (look under the Nathu-La section).
Q. Will the Tsomgo lake (also known as Changu Lake) be frozen in December?
A. Tsomgo/Changu Lake is on the way to Nathu-La and the tourist jeeps make a stop here for lunch (even otherwise). On my trip (December 30, 2006) it was not frozen. However, a friend who visited Sikkim in February said it was frozen then. I had my lunch here on my way back from Nathu-La, and I found it really cold but bearable. Also, while going we made a brief stop and the weather was clear. On the way back, a thick fog had developed and I could not take anymore pictures of the lake due to the fog.
Q. Can foreigners visit Tsomgo/Changu Lake in Sikkim?
A. Again, quoting from the Sikkim government website, "Foreign visitors have to be in a group of two or more and have to apply for the visitors permit through a registered travel agency." (look under the Tsomgo Lake section).
Q. Do I need to book al the tours before reaching Sikkim in December?
A. That depends on your comfort level. We did not pre-book hotels, or tours for Yumthang and Nathu-La (December 2006) and had no problem with anything. But we are backpackers. So, if you do not want to pre-book from your city, it is OK. We asked for a trip to Yumthang for next day and we had no problem in getting the permit.
Nathu-La is open only on specific days,so the trip requires a little bit of extra planning. For example I booked my 30th December tour to Nathu-La on 27th December and got the permit.
If you have any other question for going to Sikkim in December, please leave a comment. I would try to answer it as soon as possible.
Note:
Also, the information above should be treated with caution, as the guidelines and rules of the Indian government could change.
The weather is a fickle thing and what is true in 2006 may not remain the same in other years. Also, what is reasonably cold for one person may not be so for another. I have tried to give you my impressions an hope that it may help you for planning a trip to Sikkim in December.





19 Comments:
"Zero Point (Altitude 14,600 feet, 44503596m), Beyond Yumthang Valley, North Sikkim" 44503596m :-O a bit too much.
Yes, it is way too much :) Thanks for pointing it out. The error and other typos stand corrected now. I posted this one in a hurry. Note to self: the post would not run away if saved in the draft mode.
Very useful FAQ Mridula. Looks like your Sikkim trip was a lot of fun.
Nice FAQ - very helpful indeed. I must say, that though I don't post many comments, I am a regular reader to all your travel posts now ! Thanks for the wonderful pictures...
Very much helpful FAQ... and nice photos...
Nice FAQs. I have never crossed bihar towards east. Can you tell me the expenses on boarding, lodging and conveyance. I always tour on shoe string budget.
I went to Sikkim in February and t was awesome ...the snow had melted a bit abd the Tsongo lake was not frozen , but there was enough snow at nathulla . I had only visited Gangtok , Pelling and Yuksom - could not go to North Sikkim...however Arunachal this Dec was freezing ...sub zero,15000 feet
Pooja, good to see you here after a long time. The Sikkim trip was good fun for us, I hope the memories will last till I go for another trip :)
Kartik, thanks a lot for taking time and leaving a comment. And a bigger thanks for reading what I write :)
Thanks Prashanth.
Karnail, I will leave out the train fare of reaching New Jalpaiguri as it can be checked from the Indian railway site.
A shared jeep ticket from New Jalpaiguri to Gangtok is Rs 150. The same for Pelling is 300. We paid 300 rupess for the hotel per day in Pelling (but some were paying 500 too for the similar rooms in the same hotel). In December (and cloder months in general) in Pelling a lot of rooms are empty, so one can get rooms for even less. Even in Gangtok one can find rooms for 350 or less if one tries. My hunch is that in season the rates may be a bit on the higher side.
Food cost, again a wide variety of options are available, from very low to high. But if you are used to Delhi rates (or any metro) even the high end restaurants in Gangtok are much less expensive. Hope this helps, if I have left out something, do let me know.
Backpakker, while I was writing the reply, your comment came in. Thanks for the Feb information. If the picture of the lake on your blog is anything to go by, Arunanchal Pradesh is going to be on my agenda.
Brilliant, i'll del.icio.us this for future reference. Your posts have only spurred me on.
Anyways, the XT is good camera - the more you use it the more get better :)
Cheers.
Akshay, good to hear that you found the FAQ on Sikkim useful.
I guess I would get better with the camera if I play with it more but when I reach home, all I can think of is a good cup of tea.
I might go somewhere in Feb and I will surely take tons of pictures then and i hope some of them would come out well too.
Another of my friends travelled to a few more NE states this year and had a good trip too. Hope I'll be able to do that some time soon!
Why wait for such things Sidhu? Do it at the first opportunity I say.
Can tourists cross over to China with a valid visa through the Nathu La Pass?
Pls reply to kw1232@hotmail.com
12s, as far as I know tourists cannot cross the border via Nathu-La at this point. Only traders can go upto a specific point, though even the trade was closed during the winter. I also cannot make out if you are an Indian national or not. Because as of now Govt. of India does not allow foreigners to go up to Nathu-La. Hope this helps.
This may be slightly off topic, but is it possible to trek from Sikkim into Bhutan? or for that matter, into China? I'm currently planning a trek in Sikkim that will span a month, so any information would be helpful. Thanks!
Nicolai, as far as I know, one cannot cross from India to China. Not too sure about the Bhutan thing.
Hello Mridula! An excellent blog, and a very informative article about Sikkim. Am going there next week with my friends, and I stumbled upon your travelogue while hunting for info. The Yumthang Valley picture is excellent!
Thank you for sharing your enthusiasm!
Sincerely,
Sushanth
Sushanth, thanks a lot for your comment. Hope you will have a wonderful trip.
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