Travel Reader

Travel Reader selects great travel writing from all over the web and the print world and provides bite-size nibbles and links for anyone interested in travel.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

Chill Out Culture

In many parts of Southern Spain, it is becoming more common to see what is referred to as the “chill out culture”. This is especially true of the eastern part of Spain, as it is closer to the Spanish Island, Ibiza: from here the culture has its origin.

Upon arriving to Malaga, I could really feel the influence that this tiny Island has on its mother nation. In speaking with some of the natives, I was intrigued to learn more about the phenomenon and its followers. The next is my best interpretation of it, as well as places you can go to get a taste. Make sure to jot these hot tips down if you plan to be in the area because it is unlikely you will find them in tour books.What is it?
East of the Spanish Peninsula, the small island of Ibiza is a touristic Mediterranean beach heaven where people come to tan, feel hip and fashionable, and party like there is no tomorrow. During the day, when one walks into a café in Ibiza, they are not just coming for a quick drink. They come for the atmosphere, the relaxing lounge furniture, panoramic views (in many cases), and to socialize for hours with friends.

There are tons of these yummy hangouts throughout the island, but if you can´t make it to Ibiza, try Malaga, Granada, Seville or other cosmopolitan cities in Spain.

Who Goes:
The crowd that you see at one of these chill out cafes, restaurants, or lounges, is generally artsy and quite posh. While there is no specific rule of fashion to follow, many “chill outers” I have seen tend to wear comfortable but trendy attire. The only thing that sticks out in my mind for a MUST is the sunglasses. While most people in Spain invest in expensive sunglasses because the sun is so strong, the group I describe usually wears eyegear from Gucci, DKNY, or some other high end label. The more expensive your sunglasses, the more devoted you are to the lounge sport.

Also, while the people that follow this trend used to be only the more “hip” and “in-the-know,” this has changed over the past five years; now more Spaniards are aware of these once very exclusive locations.

On a whole, while I wouldn’t say the people who go to these places are unfriendly, they come to meet close friends, so I don’t suggest going alone, as you might feel a little left out.

Chill Out Places in Southern Spain,

Granada:

Chill Out Cafe.
In the Sierra Nevada. African Lounge Beds, Panoramic Views, and House Music. Children Friendly.

Faragüit Café, Bar (Center of Granada)
Pretty Chill out environment with outside seating area in a tropical garden and large white umbrellas.

Malaga:
La Playa Bar
Beach side café; house music: sitting area inside and on the beach; great food; reasonable prices; super-lax lounge furniture in the shape of row boats. Also, make reservations for kite surfing lessons here (952 612 414; c/Albacete, 1).
Estepona
AGH Hotel (You don’t have to be a client).
Spa resort with ¨Chill Out” floor on the top of hotel. Panoramic views, pool, restaurant, Africans Lounge Beds; house music.

Find discount flights to Malaga

Sierra de Grazalema, Southern Spain

If you drive just a little over an hour heading north east from Puerto Real, Cadíz, you can find yourself in the pretty Natural Park of Sierra de Grazalema. I once used the terms beachy and dry to describe the south of Spain, yet an excursion at this park has made me change my mind.
The Sierra de Grazalema was declared a Biosphere reserve in 1977 and became Andulicía´s first park in 1984.

The Sierra de Grazalema receives more rain than any other region of the country. Although I had seen many trees, bushes, and green fields in Southern Spain, none of them have ever been competition for what lies in the north of the country. The Natural Park defies all the stereotypes I have ever heard or myself implied, claiming that all of Southern Spain is dry compared with other Spanish regions.

People come to the Sierra to rock climb, explore caves, paraglide, mountain bike, canoe, raft down the Guadario River, horseback, and hike. For activities such as these, some people choose to spend a few nights in the Sierra. If this is the case, then there are a variety of albergues, hotels, and bed & breakfasts to choose from in the area.

Nevertheless, if you do not have the time or energy to devote to these adventures, then perhaps you may want to consider a more relaxing itinerary. Walk the charming town and have lunch at one of the Sierra’s traditional restaurants. Meat (especially pork) is a specialty of the Bosque region and is deliciously prepared.

Also visit the community’s botanical garden. Just like the rest of the park, the entrance into the conservatory is free of charge. The park’s vegetation is diverse with plants from all over Spain and various parts of Europe. The assortment of growth found in the park can be attributed to Andulicia´s privileged location between the Atlantic and Mediterranean and being located between two continents.
Also, if you have time, visit the nearby “white villages” (Arcos, Ubrique, Zahara de la sierra, Grazalema, Ronda, and Gaucin). They are neighborhoods marked with pretty white traditional houses in Spain. The white villages are conveniently on the way to or out of the Sierra. It´s a great place take a stroll!

Find discount flights to Malaga

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Bolonia Beach, Cádiz

Yesterday I was almost in Africa.

Mamen and I went to Bolonia Beach, one of the many stunning “playas” found in Cádiz; there is only 9 miles of water seperating Europe from the tribal continent. On clear days, you can see the Mountains of Morocco.

Driving down the hill into the panoramic area, I was amazed to look out my window and see horses, mules, storks, and cows roaming both in the streets and grassy fields. And strangely, we even saw Yamas, although they are not typical here, but roam in Andean countries.

Bolonia beach is enchanting and historical. It has a gorgeous shore with more than 2.5 miles of a long stretch of sand, turquoise colored sea, surrounding mountains, ruins of an old Roman city, and several sand dunes.

The first thing we did was run into a nearby restaurant with tables set up to permit views of the surrounding nature. As typical of Spanish meals, we were given bread, olive oil, vinegar, and salt (pepper is hardly ever used in Spanish dishes) to quiet our grumbling stomachs. For our main course we shared a salad and I had a Pez Espada (Swordfish) while Mamen ordered Pinchos Moruños (pork kabobs). Like often, we finished with a café and something sweet.

With renewed energy, we kicked off our shoes and ran down the beach, heading for the hilly mountain of sand. It was a pain in the neck to climb as our feet were repeatedly pulled into the sand mountain, but once we reached the top, the view was unbearably beautiful. Below us was the whole beach, natural park, and across, Africa looked closer than ever.

The best part was rolling down into sand pit. I highly recommend this body sledding sport. It is free, safe, and great fun!

To end the day we strolled through Colina de La Frontera, a town twenty minutes from Puerto. Like many towns surrounding Cadíz, Colina is famous for its fried fish and gorgeous beaches.

From Puerto, Colina de La Frontera is a nearby and charming town; it is worth spending a day or late evening here. Colina has great restaurants and a lively nightlife. Perhaps you may want to relax with a Mojito or Caiparinhas, but most the typical Spainish drink is the Cubata (Cuba Libre).

Monday, May 21, 2007

Spanish Culture

Today, without the dictator Franco in the picture, the people of Spain live well, are happy, and socialize as often as they can. Even with strangers. Last night, I went for walk with my Spanish friend Mamen and we stopped upon seeing two cute puppies. In truth, the man we approached looked a bit scary to me. Thus, while I normally would stare at the cuties and keep on my way, Mamen talked with the stranger and played with the dogs like it was her business. She stood there chatting for more than half an hour. (The frequency of how often Spaniards move their mouths is one explanation for how they stay in such great shape). While I should have been surprised at the event, I remembered from living in Granada that this is just the Spanish way.

Other differences between American and Spanish culture can be felt in the behavioral approaches of the locals co-existing among the neighborhood playgrounds, town plazas, and wide streets. In a previous blog, I wrote about how it is common for parents and adults to take their children everywhere with them. Well, this is especially true in Andulicia. In the South, where the climate is hotter and the topography more dessert-like and beachy then in my previous writings of Northern Spain, the attitude of Spaniards towards the importance of relationships remains the same. In Spain, people work to live, not live to work and this shows in the extra care they take in remaining connected to their neighbors and family unit.

Also, in Spain, it is typical to wake up and breakfast anywhere from 8 to 11, lunch from 1:30-4 and have dinner at 9:30 or later. For example, in the past two nights, I have not ate my third meal of the day before 10:30, yet here this is completely normal.

There is more to the philosophy of this schedule than meets the eye. To understand why Spanish people keep this schedule means that you understand their way of life. Take Mamen for instance. Even though she must get up at seven a.m for work everyday, she rarely goes to bed earlier than twelve thirty. In America, this is less heard of but Spaniards prefer to spend more time with their family, talking on the phone, and enjoying the day (or night).

Her explanation for the schedule of the Spanish meal:

“We eat here later because we stay up much later, and if you eat at six or seven, what will you do after? In Spain we don’t go to bed until late, so if we ate like in other parts of the world, we would probably get hungry for two dinners. And I don’t think my jeans would like that,” she jokes. Spainards have a great sense of humor. “Plus, Spanish people don’t need as much sleep”.

Personally, I would have a difficult time adjusting to the Spanish lifestyle because according to Mamen, many Spainards average five hours of sleep a night.

Luckily, there still exists the Spanish siesta. The Siesta is a one to three hour nap where people come home from work and rest in the middle of the day. Unfortunately, this tradition is being practiced less because the Spanish lifestyle has had to adapt more to the working life. Nevertheless, when the weekend arrives, you can be sure people take advantage of napping. This is especially true during the times of the year when it gets much hotter in Spain.

Moving On: Andulicia

Finally I am in Andalucia, the largest autonomous community of Spain. I took a bus from Sete Rios, one of the two train/bus stations in Lisbon. For fifty-three euros (seventy euros for those over twenty-six) I bought a ticket through ALSA ( the largest Spanish bus company)to Jerez de la Frontera. Jerez is a small town that is near Seville, Andalucia´s capital. Ultimately, my destination was Puerto Real, a suburb of Cadiz, thus I booked my ticket further than Sevilla. The ride took ages: eleven a.m. to ten thirty in the evening because we made several stops. If I could do it all over, I would revise my plan by taking the high speed train in Sevilla directly to Puerto Real and have saved a few hours.

Santa Justa Train Station, Seville

The train station in Seville was finished in 1991 and for a few more euros than one would pay for the bus, you get to tavel in comfort and luxary. While my ticket to Jerez cost me seven euros, I would have only paid four more euros for the train and arrived faster. Unless you are traveling on a shoe string budget, it is worth the extra cost. Also, for travelers hopping on and off the EuroRail pass, this is the center to connect to for getting to your next destination.

Daytrips from Lisbon

There are three wonderful choices for cities for day trip if you want to experience a little bit outside of Lisbon. Each of the following towns has something magical to it.

Belém

Belém is the closest to Lisbon of the three towns (about 30 minutes from Lisbon center). For less than two euros, take a toy train to the town from where Vasco da Gama sailed to India. Some of the highlights of this pleasurable place include its seaside views, clean air, and architectural pieces. Visit for example, the Torre de Belém which is famous for being the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. Also see the beautiful Monastery of Geronimo which was commemorated for Vasco de Gama´s return. If you are on a tight budget it is ok to pass entering inside the monastery, but make sure to explore inside the building’s cathedral. Even after seeing the impressive Spanish cathedrals and churches, the cathedral here impressed me with its elaborate details and original designs. Also, don’t forget to try the famous pastels de Belém (mentioned in a previous blog).

Cascais

A day in Cascais is perfect if you are looking to get a tan and some rest and relaxation. The Cascais beach is a panoramic spot to paradise in. Cascais beach is nice in that it has a long strength of clean sandy. I ended up spending my last night in Portugal in the Cascais Beach Hostel. For only 20 Euros I got a room to myself (it was low season). The hostel is centrally located, has free internet connection, an pool outside, barbecue area, cozy salon, security lockers, individual bathroom per room, and friendly staff. I highly recommend staying here if you want to spend a few days on the beach.

Sintra

Finally there is Sintra. Of all the places I visited during my stay in Portugal, Sintra has been my favorite by far. It is a romantic and historical town with many picturesque spots. The town is 45 minutes outside of Lisbon, and you must change transportation twice. Yet I assure you, it is worth the trip. There are many castles, fortresses, and gardens throughout the territory. I put it at number one on my list of places to visit when in Lisbon.

Tips For Enjoying Lisbon

When you get to Lisbon, one of two things may happen. One: Like I did, will quickly realize that unlike many other European capitals, Lisbon is much more relaxed and less intimidating to explore. Or two: You may become entranced with the beautiful sights of colorful and intricate architecture, castles and fortresses in the roaming hills, pretty port, and sexy language that they may not know where to begin.

If the latter is the case, this entry shall help you to find your way through the streets of the romantic metropolis.

Start your day early. If you like to keep active on your trip and are traveling alone, go for a morning walk, stroll by the parks, and familiarize yourself with your surroundings. I did this during my week in Lisbon and not only began a healthy routine but began to feel like the city was my own. If you are traveling in a group, grab some breakfast-perhaps a coffee and a Portuguese roll- and relax. Scroll through the pages of your guidebook and pick a few destinations for the day. The rest will come naturally. If you still feel helpless. No worries. There are guided tours for as cheap as 10 Euros.

2. Different Barrios (Neighborhoods of Lisbon).

Lisbon has a few different districts that are interesting to explore. The ones to take note of include Baixa, Chiado, Castelo, Alfama, Sé, and Bairro Alto. Barrio Alto
(high hill) is a personal favorite because it rests on a high point and allows you to see a panoramic view of the city. It is also a great place for shopping, and has a good mix of locals and tourists roaming the streets. It is a nice place to visit to get a flavor of the Lisbon lifestyle.

3. Night Life

One really nice thing about Lisbon, and Portugal in general, is that is cheaper than the rest of Western Europe. Whereas you may pay up to 12 Euros for a drink in Madrid or 15 Euros in Paris, it is common to spend 2 or 4 Euros in a bar in Lisbon. Also, similar to Hispanic countries such as Spain or Argentina, the people do not begin to head out into the streets until one or two in the morning. Barrio Alto is a popular neighborhood that receives a lot of attention for night festivities. However, due to the great weather in Lisbon, you won’t find people cooped up inside; most of the night is spent socializing outside.

Hot Spot

The last tip I am happy to share the most. Some of the local students who work at Travelers Lounge took me to Chapito one night. Chapito is an open terrace restaurant and bar, perfect for cheap drinks and food, and has an amazing view of the city. Also, it is only open in the late evening so you can see the city lit up. Chapito attracts a hip and artsy crowd and is not visited by many locals. On several nights there are dramatic and reinterpreted plays to see. Also fun to look at is the handmade jewelry and crafts upon entering. I highly recommend this hotspot if you want to feel like an insider.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Under Construction: Blogging from Spain


Under Construction but coming Soon: Blogs Entries about travels through Northern Spain.

Travel Europe With Me

At last, my itinerary has been organized for the reminder of the trip.

As a helpful guide to keep up with me on my travels or mail me any tips for places to visit, here is a list and set of dates for the next two months:

Currently in:

Lisbon, Portugal: May 11th to May 17th

Train|Bus ride to Cadíz, Spain.

Cadíz, Spain: May 18th to May 27th

Bus Ride to Andalicia. (Cities tentative)

Andalucia, Spain: May 28th to June 1st

Bus Ride to Madrid.

Madrid, Spain: June 2nd-4th

Flight to Paris, France.

Paris, France: June 3rd to 7th.

Flight to Barcelona, Spain

El Camino De Santiago (Barcelona to Santiago de Compostella): A month long pilgrimage through the Pyrenees, hills, and mountains, and plains of northern Spain.

July 7th. Plane ride to JFK airport.

Interview with Anna: fearless travels

Today I met Anna. She is from Michigan, a state that some may say does not share a travelers spirit, yet this Michigan native is the epitome of what a true traveler is. Ana is fearless and curious to see as much as she can, any way she can.

Traveling has many faces, but the one I refer to is the young, carefree, and independent one. A recent graduate of Michigan State, Anna described her life prior to travel as boring. She played soccer for her university, but did little aside from this. For her last semester in college, she knew she wanted to make a change in her routine and see somewhere new; she decided to study in New Zealand. “ I was like a guinea pig for my school, a pioneer in the study abroad program. No one had ever gone to New Zealand and people were nervous about my trip. My dad especially wasn’t too crazy about me going.”

About eight months into her journey, I meet here her, at the Traveler’s Lounge, and she has revamped herself as a regular student into a world traveler.“ I arrived to New Zealand and I thought everything would be arranged. Apartment, home stay, transportation. Quickly I discovered no one would do any of this for me and I was thrown into a big mess where I had to fend for myself.”

Yet Anna was relentless and preservered. Since her program ended, she has worked in London through Bunac, a company that helps Americans and Canadians acquire temporary work permits in Europe, Australia, South America, New Zealand, and Australia. Furthermore, she told me about her decision to get free accommodations through couchsurfing.com.

Intrigued, I asked her to tell me about both of her experiences with these agencies.

She explained to me that Bunac is company that helps people, students in particular, who want to see the world and work in other countries to get a work permit. There are a variety of countries you can choose to visit, but some give you the chance to work while others are volunteer based.

Anna chose to go to London. While Bunac helps the participants of the program by giving them websites and information to find housing and a job when they arrive to their destination, Anna advised me that anyone interested should do like she did: research both factors before arriving. It makes for a less stressful experience.

Anna used www.Gumtree.com find both housing and a job. She worked in retail making only 5.50 pounds an hour, but survived by being one of the top sellers and making commission. In July, she is continuing working in Europe, but this time in Naples, Italy. Through the same website she found a job as an English teacher for a little boy whose parents own a small hotel. “ The family is going to give me a car”, she said, "and we will do fun things so the boy can learn English.”

As for the Bunac program, it is nice program to try out if you want to work abroad. However, keep in mind there is a fee to pay and the program is geared for the independent, self-reliant, and optimistic traveler. Sometimes getting a job can take weeks and the same is true of accommodations, so come with back up funds. Also, BUNAC has an age limit for those it accepts. The program requires you to have student status and be under 26 years old.

Finally, Anna told me more about the free accommodations she would get her last days in Lisbon. www.CouchSurfing.Com is a website that has travelers with profiles from all over the world, and many offer travelers a free room. The key to making this work is to get online, create a profile, and look up the area you care to visit. There will be a list of people who are offering a free bed/couch and it is important to check out the profile and references of each. While Anna could of stayed for free all of her nights in Lisbon, she had the common sense to rent a hostel bed, and to meet her host first. She advises this is the safest way to make sure you don’t get stood up or taken advantage of. Still, there is some risk involved, so make sure to use your best judgment.

There are so many things to learn about cheap, safe, and fun travel and I am excited to share these findings with you over the course of the next few weeks.

Lisbon by Word of Mouth

While many people come to a new city and tend to hit the streets of the town to get a feel for their surroundings, I am getting a taste of Lisbon from inside the lovely apartment-like hostel. After a rather intense itinerary of visiting nearly every main city in Northern Spain, and dinners lastly until midnight, this nomad needs some hardcore rest. Moreover, there is an issue of playing catch up with some reporting and writing.

Ok, vale. Lets go. I woke up from my nap to hear an accordion player outside my balcony. I am getting the impression that there are a lot of independent musicians here in Lisbon. Just as in a romanticized movie, where the actor walks down a street and hears an violin player modestly entertaining the general public; the actor strolls through the street, and the audience is captured by the melodic tune portraying life as one sweet song, I am now living such a life. I am in my own movie, Portuguese style. As I walk the streets and wake up, I hear independent artists transmit their tunes into my room.

The breakfast served at the was really nice too. Unlimited toast and Jam, an omelet (made by the hostel help), juices, and coffee. The perfect way to start a day. I am definitely in Europe now; I can feel it from the vibes given off by the other travelers to the smell of the air.

The co-owner of the hostel, Tiago, a photojournalist, who has lived/visited various parts of the world, is extremely helpful. As I sit here with unlimited free Internet access, and hardly anyone is in back of me waiting to use the computer, I know that in 3 hours, this will all change. Understanding the world of deadlines and responsibility in journalism, he lends me his personal Mac notebook for the day. What luck I am having in Portugal.

While I have yet to see the sights of Lisbon, I am quickly realizing that the city is very international and filled with many students, backpackers, scribes, and individuals eager to do the same as me: learn about other cultures, write, and travel.

Here in the hostel, every other person seems to be fascinated with my job at GoNoMAD.com. They all seem to want to be travel writers. As someone who very casually, yet happily, fell into the career, I feel more lucky than ever to be reporting and am proudly wearing my GoNoMAD.com shirt around the hostel.

Knowing that I have to do some reporting, everyone is eager to share tips for what I should see and do.

Some of the best ones have been to visit the beaches of Cascais, the historical town of Sintra, and go to Belém for its pastry shops.

In fact, while taking a quick break from writing, I was just treated to a pastel de Belém. Belém is a town on the outskirts of Lisbon that is famous for their custard pastries. Since 1837, nuns have been selling these treats (made with a long standing secret recipe). Today the pastry shop is one big bar and waiters walk around severing a couple thousand pastries a day. The pastries are cheap at the low price of .80 cents a piece, but beware: the line to taste this luxury can last as long as 15 minutes during the peak times of the day. (www.pasteisdebelem.pt)

Tomorrow, I plan to go visit one of these interesting places for myself.

Travelers House, Lisbon Portugal

Of all the places you can find for accommodations in Portugal, if you have an open mind and want to get to know people quickly, I recommend a hostel. Yesterday, after a long bus ride, I arrived at the Travelers House Hostel, located on Calle Rua Augusta, one of the most famous streets in all of Lisbon.

Even before entering the building, I enjoyed that from the metro, Calle Rua Augusta was in eyesight. As I made my way to my destination, I was excited to pass a combination of locals and visitors, sitting with friends on outside terraces, enjoying conversation, glasses of wine, and appetizers. Immediately I noticed how easy going the atmosphere is in Portugal. If you consider that Lisbon is a capital, yet gives off a rather mellow vibe, one can only imagine what the rest of the country is like.

Earlier I had read that Calle Rua Augusta is a fun and famous street to explore because it is lined with shops, and is the center point of Lisbon for many activities. Exit on one end, and you are in an energetic part of the city, and take the other, and there you have a beach!

To make my decision of where to stay I, looked up hostelworld.com and typed in Lisbon, Portugal. Generally, I have two main concerns when I look to stay in a hostel. The first is the rating and price. I once made a mistake of booking a cheap pension in Barcelona and ended up spending my weekend in the adventurous town alone and regretting my accommodation.

Hostelworld.com gives Traveler’s House a rating of 98% and so do I. From the moment I entered the hostel, I could feel the very homey and relaxed atmosphere that is prevalent within the space. There are two gorgeous Mac computers with high speed internet connection in one room, a lounging area with cushions and bean bags conveniently positioned on the salon floor, a well equipped kitchen for cooking, and a large dining room for eating.

The hostel is brand new. So new that they are still working on finishing it on the second level. The hostel has only been opened for 6 months but is nearly booked on a general basis, so don’t just walk, you’ll probably get turned away. Hostelworld.com gives a few other options that look like fun choices, but take it from me. If it is quick friends, clean rooms, and the best location with easy access to other parts of the city you are seeking, then the Travelers Lounge is the place to go.

Within my first hour of staying here, I made friends with one boy from the UK, one from New York, and a lovely girl from Sweden. For only 5 euros, the four of us enjoyed an entrée of pasta with red sauce, Portuguese sausage, and for anti-pasta: sliced tomatoes in olive oil, sesame bread, and wine. The best part was that we made it ourselves!! “Que Rico!!!” as they say in Spain for something delicious.

When the clock struck 22:00, it became happy hour, and the salon floor became a Mecca of fellow hostellers.

For only 1 euro, we enjoyed lots of great conversation and cheap beer.

Lisbon, Portugal


When you grab your backpack and a Visa card, in a bus, train, or plane ride, you can find yourself anywhere in the world.

Happily, my journey goes so much farther than the green countryside of Northern Spain.

I write to you from sunny Lisbon, Portugal where I arrived yesterday. With little more than my Atmos backpack, passport, Visa, and the desire to explore, I left Santiago de Compostella to see something new.

To get to Portugal from Santiago there are a few alternatives. The first is to fly. I recommend Vueling.com. It is Spanish airline that has many cheap flights from within the country as well as to various other cities throughout Europe. If you can’t find a cheap ticket on Vueling, my next suggestion is to take the train or the bus. While both go to various parts of Portugal, I took the bus because it is the cheaper and faster option of the two.

The bus company that makes the trip is Alsa, a Spanish carrier that has a great reputation for its safe and cheap transportation, both domestically and internationally.

From Santiago to Lisbon, Portugal, it takes about eight hours to arrive and costs roughly 35 euros. One place we stopped in along the way is Porto. While many parts of Portugal are gorgeous and worthy of exploring, Porto is known for its scenic beaches. Yesterday, Maggie, a fellow traveler who I met at the hostel I am staying at (Traveler’s House) described her stay in Porto as an adventure. “ The city has two faces. When I first got there it seemed that the city was an old beach town with some historical parts, and then I later found out there is a part of Porto that is restored and more modern.”

I myself have decided to skip over Porto, only because after eventful an week in Spain, for me that the smartest travel move is to find a central spot to stabilize myself and make day trips from. Lisbon has tons of culture about it. During the day people graze the streets enjoying the sights and making sure not to rush through life. During the night, similar to in Spain or Argentina, Lisbon is one big party. For many, the night does not start until 2 or 3 am.

So far, of all the tips, I can give for traveling to Lisbon, the top two are these: In the metro, remember to save your entrance ticket. If you don’t you will not be allowed to exit the station. Fines for this go up to 20 euros.

Also, do not worry about the language barrier, especially if you speak a little Spanish. People are helpful and respond to you in Spanish or English if they can. But make sure to get a book of travel phrases no matter what, it will come in handy. While there are many foreigners in Lisbon, you won´t find many of them in the outskirts of the center.

Thursday, May 10, 2007

The Tulips of Dutch country


A rich red and crystal pink pallet stretch for miles across the dutch countryside and is quite a sight at this time of year. In 1637, when the Dutch tulip bulb market collapsed the locals lost everything they had. So when the flowers bloom in the land today, the country's people take time to celebrate this special flower's meaning. “We have these very dark, wet winters,” says Ms. Hoogland, “so when the tulips start blooming, it's emotional.”

Flying into Shiphol Airport you'll pass over the sandy soil behind Netherlands' coastal dunes. From Haarlem to the Haque the bright fields below are breath taking. Gregory Dickum of the New York Post had the chance to experience Bollenstreek, the largest of many flower parades held across the country held in Haarlem.

"Children danced under the influence of salty Dutch licorice as dozens of floral-psychedelic floats cruised by, each sculptured from countless blossoms. A vast Pippi Longstocking, a huge purple beer barrel and succulent-looking fruits as big as garden sheds scented the air for precise marching bands."

Dickum goes on to share that his recommended bicycle trip he rode over quaint brides covering waterways filled with swans. The sweet smell of hyacinth was occasionaly interrupted by a whiff of agricultural chemicals. “The acres and acres of tulips in bloom are dazzling,” says Amy Stewart, author of the best-selling “Flower Confidential,” “but it's also a factory: Holland is one of the few places people can get a glimpse of how the modern flower industry operates.”

Dickum preaches only to buy the fresh cut flowers if you do visit since the same bulbs from the same region are available at home. "For the Dutch, flowers are an everyday necessity: you'll see fresh bouquets everywhere, from homes to herring stands. You should follow their lead," says Dickum.

By, Melissa Vitti

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Sunday, May 06, 2007

Buenos Valores

Spain is one culture where it is easy to identify that family is a central part of how society functions. From our walks around cities we visit, one thing is clear: kids go everywhere with their parents. Whether it is a local bar during the evening or the grocery store, children are seen alongside parents and grandparents throughout the city.

Something noticeable in every main square we near, is the vitality and energy of the children running around the plaza. They are down to earth and happy, playing tag with one another, roller-skating, and socializing. In Spain, it is an important value to know how to socialize and children begin learning these lessons at a young age.

Toddlers chase each other on their tricycles, while their grandparents sit nearby keeping a watchful eye. By the time children are ten or older, they are usually given the freedom to play under less supervised conditions. Although the dominant generation in Spain is getting older and the birth rate is low, the presence of “golosinas” candy shops, fill every corner. No matter what part of Spain you visit, after school, it is common to see groups of children standing around with transparent bags, filled with treats.

In towns with small populations, it is almost guaranteed that these kids have been friends since their diaper days. Talking to a few locals in their late sixties and seventies, it became obvious that this is not a temporary situation.

In many Spanish towns, people continue friendships indefinitely. One thing for sure is that there are many happy people in Spain who value relationships with family and friends. There is much to admire and learn from the Spaniards way of life.

Kingdom of Navarra

Navarra is one of the seventeen Autonomous Communities of Spain. We had the chance to cruise through the trails of the green heartland, which has an essence of an ancient kingdom. Many people come to Navarra to enjoy the amazing cuisine, while others aim to explore the historical links permeating through the territory.

The area is a curious place and full of mystery and surprises. Whether you seek to get some peace and quiet or take an adventerous trip, the many towns within Navarra aim to please all kinds of visitors. If you seek to get your adrenaline pumping, the Pyrenees Mountains and forests are 60 miles from La Ribera, the area that divides Navarra with Pamplona and its central zone.

Passing by the Pyrenees in our travel bus, I look at the high peaks, open meadows, and woods and realize what an experience these mountains would be. The land has survived wars, seen kings, and remains home to many Sheppard’s; the grounds are centuries old and not only will you give you a good work out, but will make you feel like you are traveling through time.

A walk through Pamplona, the economic and cultural center of Navarra brought us face to face with many pilgrims who were walking El Camino de Frances, the road of Saint James. With more than a month to go for many of them, it was nice to see their high energy and passion for their journey. Besides Pilgrims, we toured the plaza where the annual event, the running of the bulls occurs. The week of July 6th, when the running of the bulls occurs, the town population quadruples to one million people. Also, if you are in this area and appreciate Ernest Hemingway, be sure to check out Café Iruna, where Hemingway frequented. Also, next door, is a casino club, where local men gather together and play poker. The only catch is that women are not allowed. I guess Spain still has some strong macho traditions it holds on to.

The central zone is also a pleasure to visit. It is filled with fortresses, castles, palaces, old churches, and history. There are many areas such as the Tierra Estella (Latin for Star) that retain many of its medieval origins. We visited San Pedro de Lizzarra, an old church that dates back to 14th century and shows original work completed in a gothic, baroque, and roman style.

Finally, the Region of La Ribera, is a scenic landscape with home to a Natural Reserve of the Bardenales Reales, a desert like area. The food products from this area are considered unique throughout the world, but Navarra in general is famous for its asparagus and artichokes.

Bilbao, Hotel Silken



At last, arriving at the modernly styled airport of Bilbao, I was warmly greeted in Euskera (a language of Basque Spain) by our guide for the day. Eagerly, I tossed my Atmos 50 backpack onto the bus and met my fellow travel mates. Although Linda, Richard, Barry, Dominick, and I all flew with Iberia airlines from JFK airport, it was on the bus that we first met.

Exhausted but excited to soak in the Basque culture, we drove through the old industrialized Bilbao center. Finally, we stopped at a gorgeous five star hotel, Hoteles Silken, located in the center of the cosmopolitan area. If you like all the hype of being in a hustling city, but still need a little peace and quiet to feel relaxed, this is the hotel to stay in. Our night at the Silken was a delicious experience. As I opened the curtains to my room, I came nearly face to face with the infamous Guggenheim Museum, as well as their iconic giant sized dog, covered in flowers. The Silken is colorful and fun, yet is sophisticated, modern, and luxurious. Even if you are not staying overnight, it is the perfect place to meet up with a friend for coffee.

After the long back –breaking airplane ride, every one of my aching muscles was calling to me for attention. Easily, the spacious ivory colored tub was my solution. The elegantly hung bathrobes, slippers, and assortment of various body products were a great bonus as well.

From its fantastic lobby filled with 21st century furniture and elaborately decorated waterfall, to the seventh floor breakfast with panoramic views of the city, a stay at the Silken is overall a priceless experience. My only complaint is the expensive internet connection; their minimum fee of six euros for fifteen minutes was outrageous.

Seven Days in Northern Spain: Part I

“Vale, vamonos,” is what they say here in Spain when they want to express the need to hurry up and get moving. Some say that the Spanish are lazy, but let me assure you, this is one stereotype that needs to be broken. While it is true that in some parts of Spain where it gets really hot, people work more slowly, the Spanish as a whole, are far from lethargic. In my experiences with the Spanish, I notice that they are passionate about life and socially active, rarely sleeping eight hours a night.

GoNOMAD has sent me on a pilgrimage through Northern Spain. For one week, I join four other journalists from various parts of North America and Canada to bring you, our beloved reader, all the hot tips and ins and outs of Northern Spain. Accompanying us is worldly Galician guide, Rosana. With her, we will be lead through the trail of the famous pilgrimage, El Camino de Santiago de Frances. We start in Bilbao and finish this adventure seven days later in Santiago de Compostella; here stands the great Cathedral holding the famous St. James’s body and waits to receive to pilgrims.

As it is my responsibility and due to my deep affection for Spain, I am going to make it my mission this week, to give you an ultimate taste for the country.

As a preview to what is to come this week, I want to empathize that the north of Spain’s strong cultural identity, is deeply rooted in the different languages of the region as well as its gastronomy, climate, and its architecture.