More than Chocolate in Switzerland

Switzerland: a country that has drawn travelers in with its curious charm, sky-touching mountains, and epic landscapes for centuries. Well, then there's also the chocolate. As hackwriters.com writer Loraine Balita discovers in her article What Lies Beyond A Bar Of Chocolate, there is much more to Switzerland than skiing the Swiss Alps and indulging in that rich, smooth, delicious chocolate...

"'This has got to be fake!', I continuously told myself when the cruise ship approached Montreux. A medieval castle built on an islet facing a spectacular view ushered me to get off.

Snow topped mountains lined the other side of the lake, with its feet gently dipped in the waters. Sunlight peeked at the sides of the mountain, caressing the surface of the lake, making the water sparkle. Add that to the already astonishing view of the Chateau de Chillon (Castle of Chillon), makes a seemingly fake scene that would make anybody rub their eyes in disbelief.

This, I thought would give me the perfect reason to stay single, I could well say that I fell in love with a castle in Montreux. And just like discovering substance behind a pretty face, I discovered the historical significance of this place.

From a medieval castle to a medieval little town in Switzerland, I just couldn’t get enough of the interesting lives of Princesses, Knights and Dukes. The town of Murten has kept its charm and appeal with perfectly preserved towers, walls, streets, arcades and walkways that would surround any tourist who would want to walk back in time. You can almost see knights in horses passing by who would come to any damsel’s rescue. Snap back to reality and you’d see them in motorcycles, BMW's and Audis screeching along the age old bricks used in the streets.

Wondering just how strong the brick fortresses are, I kicked the wall just beside the tower clock. After breaking a French pedicured toenail, I realized just how stupid I was expecting the structure to crumble right before my feet. If these have been here since the medieval times, it could have well withstood even the strongest typhoon, snow storm and earthquake since those times. Silly me, thinking I was Goliath who could kick this edifices right off of their feet. "

Emily Moves on, Kristi Begins Blogging

Emily Morse is now in Mexico, studying Spanish for an intensive week at Language Study Abroad near Mexico City. Emily will be moving to Japan in the fall and will begin a new blog written with Sarah, this blog' co-author, about their lives in this new place.

This week we welcome Kristi Girdharry, a UMass Senior English major, who is beginning a new internship at GoNOMAD. One of her jobs will be to post to this blog.

Welcome Kristi!

Bungee Jumping in Vanuatu

On the South Pacific island of Vanuatu travelers can join in an ancient tradition that is quite similar to the modern daring sport of bungee jumping. GoNOMAD writer Aaron Reedy reviews this tradition in his article Vanuatu's Original Bungee Jumpers.

"Throughout the Naghol ceremony as many as 20 divers, clad only in nambas (traditional woven mats wrapped around the loins) will leap from staggered platforms on the tower with carefully chosen and measured vines tied around their ankles. Precision in preparing the vines is of grave importance. Too short and the diver will swing back into the tower; too long and he will slam into earth in an unchecked freefall.

Undoubtedly, the Naghol has changed since the people of Pentecost have realized that outsiders are eager to pay to witness this dramatic spectacle. It now occurs much more frequently then it had in the past. Despite that, the ceremony itself still remains a stirring experience for its participants. Any preconceived notions of unenthusiastic divers going through the motions just to make a buck are quickly dispelled by the overwhelming intensity of the whole affair.

From the moment the large group of dancers start their enthusiastic singing at the base of the tower, there is a palpable energy in the surrounding jungle clearing. The young boys are the first to jump and each successive diver jumps from a higher platform.The raw emotion on the face of the divers is undeniable. Some strut to the platform while others stoically try to present a calm face to the crowd. With each diver plunging towards the earth from a more frightening height, the knot your stomach grows larger."

Retiring in Colombia

When Escape From America writer Russel Stanley was ready for retirement, he considered his choices very carefully. In America he felt that he would be forced to do "old people things," as well as pay a higher cost of living. Instead, he moved to Bogota, Colombia and found a world where things are cheaper and elders are still treated with respect. He shares his opinions in his article Quality of Life and Cost of Living in Bogota.

"While we may be looking for a place we can live more cheaply, most of us are not looking to reduce our creature comforts, nor the availability of the kind of things we enjoy doing. Supermarkets with products and brands we prefer. Quality health care. Theatres, movies, restaurants. For some, arts such as opera, ballet and symphony. Cable tv, broad band internet, hot water, and good water pressure. Bogota & Medellin have it all and generally at very affordable prices.

Big difference? The cultural attitude toward older people. Certainly, while there are good and bad people everywhere, those here tend to be noticeably more friendly and helpful. I believe I have made more friends here in a couple of years than I made my whole life in the US. We of the older generation are considered to be productive members of society. Parties and other social occasions include young and old and everything in between. People in Bogota tend to be well educated. In some ways, from a university stand point, it reminds me of Boston. There must be a hundred universities, some large and famous, with students from Europe and other South American countries. Although I believe the US university system to be the best in the world, I think the elementary education system in Colombia is better.

There is of course a lot of poverty here, as in many other South American countries, and indeed the rest of the world, but it seems to be more visible here. But there is also a very large middle class; the average income for professionals (engineers, accountants, lawyers, etc) is about $10,000 a year. It would appear that they live comfortably on that income, and while I am sure they have the same wants and needs as anybody, I get the impression that they live less stressful lives than their American counterparts earning five times the money."

Resort Based Nature Programs

"According to a recent survey conducted by the Travel Association of America, all of the top 10 destinations selected by American travelers represented outdoor experiences, with 8 out of the 10 being natural environments." Writes Caren Osten Gerszberg, in her article for New York Times Travel; Stay in a Hotel; See Wildlife.

"WHEN Alex Klein, age 10, and her 8-year-old brother, Hugh, got back to their hotel after a day of skiing during their winter vacation, they found themselves participating in an unusual après-ski activity. In a large, open meadow, the siblings watched as a Harris's hawk with a three-foot wingspan landed on their father's gloved hand. "It was a little scary, but very cool," said Alex.

Other resorts are hiring naturalists, ecologists and biologists to educate guests of all ages about specific ecology-related topics. At the Cheeca Lodge on Islamorada in the Florida Keys, Captain Elizabeth Jolin — known as "the fish whisperer"— takes visitors on a boating excursion to explore the ecological systems of this string of islands, which divides the Atlantic Ocean and the Florida Bay.

Perhaps what's most gratifying for parents is their children's new knowledge. After a recent visit to the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman in the Cayman Islands, my 10-year-old daughter, Emily, had learned the four principles of the resort's Ambassadors of the Environment program: everything runs on energy; nothing is wasted; biodiversity is good; and everything is connected."

Food Miscommunication in Vietnam

In the world of published travel writing few books stand out like the collection Travelers' Tales. These stories cover travel from all over the world. On their website they feature the Editor's choice, in this case Richard Sterling's hysterical article It’s All Good: More News from Mr. Hat’s Neighborhood.

"Every time I try to speak a little Vietnamese I get the damned tones wrong. I’ve inadvertently told a woman that she was a urinal; I’ve asked a waiter to change my stomach; I’ve asked for extra “no” at a food stall and answered “rice” to a request for alms; I’ve tried to buy a bottle of “yes” and answered “wine” to a yes-or-no question. My fox paws patter on. The folks laugh, I laugh, and they all know I’m doing my inadequate best. So I have no trouble laughing my ass off whenever they make an erroneous error with my own lingo. I’ve been collecting fractured English menu items from all over town. Here are just a few.

Fried Rice Hell
Grind Potato Cold Meat
Frilled Beef with Pork
Fried Spaghetti Dry
Baked Honey with Garlic Ribs
Mexican Burrito with Mung Bean (That’s actually correct, sadly)
Wedges Served with Sour Cream
Banana Flammable (Yes, it’s what it sounds like)
Good Cyclo Driver (Don’t ask me)
Filleted Fish Paste
FriedRice with Clab (No, that’s not crab)
Beef in Wild Battle
Fish Pie Broth
Dutch Spring Balls (Who says the Dutch don’t have balls?)
Boiled Bowels Instant
Pancake Horny (No comment)

Many first-time visitors are startled at the personal questions Vietnamese people ask upon first meeting. They will quickly ask if you are married, how many children you have, how old are you? This not to be intrusive, it is simply to place you in your allotted pigeonhole. Everybody must have one. If you don’t have one it upsets the natural order of things. So people remember your answers to these important questions. And that includes your birthday. Even if not everybody remembers the actual date of your birthday, somebody will. And if the folks will it, the grapevine will hum as your birthday approaches."

The People we Meet on the Road

Traveling is great for many different reasons, one being all the friends one makes along his/her journey. Erica Johansson, writer for hackwriters, describes a friend she met while traveling in her article; London Life.

"Excuse me."A podgy old lady clad in a creased jacket, a brown long skirt and an awry hat, holding a neat purse by her chest, is standing in front of me.

"I do not have my glasses with me. Can you help me press the bottoms at the cash machine over there?"She is pointing towards the empty area around the two cash machines by Hackneys local bank branch a few yards from us. "Yes, of course."I follow her to the cashpoint. Quietly she tells me the right numbers to press in order to make the withdrawal successful. The pound notes are carefully folded into her black wallet. With a thankful smile and an appreciating nod she strolls down Hackney Road towards the pedestrian crossing.

A stranger is simply a friend you have not got to know yet. What lies between are openness and contact. It does not matter whether you are in London, Lisbon, La Paz, Laos, Lesotho or Long Beach. Cross that boundary line. Maybe you will get a nice chat, prejudices confirmed or refuted, another viewpoint, a new friend. Your travel experiences will however be richer in many ways. "

Traveling Sicily With Style

Slow Travel writer Anne Robichaud found that marriage to a Palmeritano would lead to a host of special treats when she and her husband traveled to the beautiful Mediterranean Island of Sicily. She describes her visits with a Baronessa and a Countess in her article Palermo's Welcoming Nobility.

"This year the weather was unseasonably cool during our annual visit to my husband Pino's family in Palermo, Sicily, so we combined time at the seaside with visits to a few of Palermo's "hidden" artistic treasures: privately-owned Noble Palazzi (palaces). An article in an Italian art magazine had caught my eye: a couple of Palermo's privately-owned palaces are open for visits by appointment only, two others on a few set dates. I made some calls, even speaking directly with a young Baroness and a delightful Count. I said that I was an Americana married for many years to a Palmeritano and long-fascinated with the art and history of bellissima Palermo. The doors opened graciously in each case: an invitation to visit.

Palazzo Aiutamicristo
Our first visit was to Palazzo Aiutamicristo where we were warmly welcomed by charming Baronessa Maria (28 years old), standing in for her vacationing parents, Baron and Baroness Calefati di Canalotti. Their family has owned the palace since the 18th century.

The late 15th century Palazzo has hosted nobility for centuries. The vast and magnificent frescoed ballroom must have been the setting for many a sumptuous event. Appropriately, the 200 square meter room (about 2000 square feet) is crowned with a ceiling fresco called "The Glory of the Virtuous Prince". The ballroom opens on to a flowered terrace and here breakfast is served to guests of the palace B&B: the Baron and Baroness have transformed two rooms of the palace for visitors. Small rooms of simple charm with low wooden-beamed ceilings: certainly once the servants' quarters (high ceilings and frescoes are not in that part of the palazzo!).

Villa Tasca
At Villa Tasca, not just a couple rooms, but an entire floor of the sumptuous residence may be rented. The elegant spacious rooms look out over the splendid botanical garden of rare plants which grace the contours of the pool.

We toured the home and grounds thanks to the kindness of the villa director, Signor De Grandi, who has been right-hand man to Count Lucio Tasca D'Almerita for some years (all of the Tasca family was involved that day in preparation for the grape harvest at their famous vineyards, Regaleali, in the hills about an hour from Palermo). Pino enjoyed De Grandi's stories and reminisces as much as our fascinating tour of the Villa and grounds: De Grandi (in his late 80's and still in top form) had played for the Palermo and Milan soccer teams!"

Sailing Through Antarctica

Climb aboard the "Spirit-of-Sydney" an eight passenger yacht and sail around Antarctica. Stephen Hartshorne, writer for GoNOMAD, did in his article; Sailing Antarctica in a World-Class Racing Yacht.

"Antarctica has become a very popular travel destination in recent years, and there are dozens and dozens of tour offerings there. But if you want to get really close to the striking Antarctic landscapes and the hardy animals that make their homes there, you might want to take a hands-on sailing tour of the White Continent aboard the "Spirit of Sydney," an eight-passenger yacht designed for round-the-world racing.

"The only other way to sail around Antarctica is to charter an entire vessel," he says. "The 'Spirit of Sydney' trips are unique because they offer individuals, couples and small groups the opportunity to join a sailing trip. Also, you're a lot closer to the water when sailing. This trip will allow passengers the opportunity to view the amazing wildlife that Antarctica is famous for, including whales, penguins and sea birds, up close."

The "Spirit" has also been likened to "an ocean greyhound," with long clean lines and flared bow sections designed for surfing the big rollers of the Southern Ocean. The ship had a major refit in 2002 including a new engine, new mainsail and a plexiglass dodger on the cockpit."

Travel, Volunteering and Meditation

The International Volunteer Programs Association has planned a trip this year to take volunteers deep into the heart of India where they can help on conservation, eco-tourism, education, environment and other types of projects. GoNOMAD.com features the trip in their article A Spiritual Adventure in the Himalayas.

"Volunteer for an Eco-Spiritual Tour in the heart of the Himalayan Mountains in Leh-Ladakh, just next to Tibet. A charitable contribution you participate in as you travel.

In August 2006, 10 Tour Members will spend 10 days in the environmental landscape and religious culture of the Ladakh region of northern India. The combination of a strikingly beautiful, yet fragile ecology and the mystical rich heritage of the Buddhist culture provides the ideal setting for combining eco-tourism and spiritual awareness. Our non-profit tour program is based on participant funding where Tour Members will do simple volunteer work in areas of alternative energy, biodiversity, water resources, waste cleanup, agriculture, endangered species and glacial movement.

While on tour, members will be immersed in the spiritual nature of the region by visiting ancient monasteries, interacting with Buddhist monks and lamas, attending summer harvest festivals, learning Buddhist meditation and making mandalas. Global Eco-Spiritual Tours is a non-profit, tax-exempt organization that contributes to educational and health care needs of children in developing countries in our tour area through our member donations.

Highlights: 2005 tour highlights included planting 36 sapling trees, bottling 80 liters of spring water, donating 3 solar panels, visiting 9 monasteries, nightly meditation sessions with our spiritual leader, making two sand mandalas, attending Buddhist meditation technique seminar, attending cultural events and a 3-day trek through the Himalayan Mountains. Our new activity for the tour includes a river raft ride down Indus River prior to afternoon tree planting. "

Tips for Vacationing in Costa Rica

National Geographic writer Cliff Ransom delves into the reasons why Costa Rica might just be the best place for an ecotour vacation in his article Costa Rica: Big Trip, Little Country. Ransom offers suggestions and tips for planning a wild vacation.

"To get the most out of a trip to Costa Rica, consider the vacation a series of short, contained journeys, each distinct from the next. The jungle-covered volcanoes of the central highlands are worlds apart from the dry, cactus-studded hills of Guanacaste or the deserted beaches of the Península de Osa. In any other place, linking such disparate geographies would be a chore, but because of Costa Rica's size—a touch smaller than West Virginia—you can string them together with ease.

Hike a Smoking Volcano The three-day circuit from lava-spurting Volcán Arenal to the cloud forests of Monteverde is the trip that jump-started the ecotourism boom in Costa Rica.

Raft a River Classic "There are a lot of great rivers in Costa Rica, but the Pacuare ranks as one of the great rivers of the world," says Michael Kaye, founder of Costa Rica Expeditions, among the country's most long-standing guide services.

Go on a Jungle Safari While the backyard of an average Costa Rican home can be a safari in itself, most wildlife lovers head to Tortuguero. This network of beaches and black-water canals in the country's northeast is rife with caimans, jaguars, tapirs, and massive leatherback, hawksbill, and Caribbean green sea turtles that nest seaside throughout the year.

Surf a Legendary Break Costa Rica has Central America's greatest concentration of well-charted, accessible surf breaks. At the heart of the action is Tamarindo, a party town in the country's northwest with surfing schools, board rentals, boat hires, and head-high summer swells."

Lofoten Islands, Norway

According to Andrew Eames, writer for travelintelligence, "For anyone with an ounce of poetry in their soul there can be few better places to arrive than Norway's Lofoten Islands on a calm summer's eve. " I'm intrigued. Read about the Lofoten Islands in the article titled; Lofoten Islands.

"Anyone familiar with the way the Cuillins rear out of the sea on the Isle of Skye will have have some idea what the Lofoten islands look like. Both rise to similar heights (around 3,000ft) and come complete with grouse, heather, peat bog and midges - but in the case of the Lofotens somebody has xeroxed the Cuillins and hung them out to dry all along the horizon.

This pristine environment is much as the ice age left it 10,000 years ago. But don't assume that because the Lofotens are north of the Arctic Circle that they are raw, wind-ravaged places: the season of fruitfulness may be short here, but from mid-May the ground bursts forth with wild flowers and berries, the skies are filled with cuckoos, curlews and eagles, and the water churns with migrating cod and salmon. When the sun shines there's a clarity in the air here which almost defies description, picking out beaches of clean white sand and piercing water so pure that you can watch the starfish grazing, 30ft down.

And then, of course, for about six weeks right in the middle of the year, there's the midnight sun. All lighthouses in Lofoten are switched off from 30th April and not turned back on until August 6th, when the sun finally sets."

Glacier Climbing

Famous for its natural beauty, diverse ecosystem and culture, New Zealand is also a great place to visit for those interested in extreme sports. Hostel World writer Niamh Ni Mhir describes his adventues in glacier climbing, whale-watching, and jet-boating as well as watching a Maori dance and joining in the rauckus nightlife of Queensland in his story Been There - New Zealand.

"New Zealand has to have one of the most diverse landscapes of any country in the world with bubbling hot springs, volcanic pools, fjords and the most amazing mountains and lakes. I arrived into Christchurch, which is a quiet, laid-back city. From here it was across the mountains and valleys to Greymouth on the west coast of the South Island.

Next it was down to Glacier Country and Franz Josef Glacier in particular. It was here that I did one of the most amazing adventure activities (and there are plenty in New Zealand). We spent an entire day climbing the face of Franz Josef Glacier, all decked out in our wet gear with spikes and ice-picks. For someone who has never done anything like this before it was quite daunting, but very exciting. Our guide was excellent and ensured that no-one in our small group of 10 people fell into a crevice and that we stuck to the trail, which had been picked out that morning by the first climbers into a track of ice steps. A whole days climbing seemed quite a task as we set out that morning, but it became more enjoyable as the day went on. We had spectacular views of the glacier and learned a lot about the huge ice formation we were climbing. The highlight of the day was sliding down a natural ice-slide, which was formed that morning and would likely not be there the following day.

After Franz Josef it was off to the adventure capital of New Zealand - Queenstown. The nightlife here was every bit as good as everyone said - with that much adrenaline about it would have to be. The next adventure activity on the list was jet-boating which involved speeding through a rocky gully, almost touching the cliff face, before turning to speed off in the opposite direction. Queenstown is New Zealand's skiing and snowboarding center, but unfortunately there was no snow when we were there, and I didn't fancy trying a bungy jump.

We headed back towards Christchurch next and on to Kaikoura, feeding ground of the Sperm Whale and many other whale species. On our whale-watching trip we saw 3 sperm whales, seals and a number of dolphins.Next it was over on the ferry from Picton to Wellington to visit the government capital of New Zealand. Wellington is another interesting city, most famous for it's Beehive Parliament Building.

From Wellington I headed north to Rotorua, famous for the rotten egg smell from the volcanic pools of sulphur. Here I attened a Maori Dance Show where I got an interesting insight into Maori culture and also learnt the Haka."

Camels, Flamingos and Singing Sand Dunes

Qatar is a small country that does not get a lot of attention, but GoNOMAD writer Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey recommends the beautiful middle eastern nation for vacations abroad. She writes a GoNOMAD Destination Miniguide - Qatar: Capturing the Magic of Arabia which tells potential visitors the best places to stay, eat, and do while there.

"The country has fewer than one million inhabitants, some 80 per cent of whom are expatriates, mainly from India, Pakistan and the Philippines. Although there are several small towns and villages, 75 per cent of the population live in the capital Doha, on the east coast of Qatar.

It is hot in summer, with temperatures of 122 degrees Fahrenheit (50 degrees Celsius) and above. But the heat is mostly dry, with humidity limited to evenings and nighttime. The best time to visit is in spring and fall, generally any time between October and April, bearing in mind that in December and January the sea cools down a little, but daytime temperatures are great.

Qatar is a very small country with limited sites, but the desert around the Inland Sea is an absolute must. The Inland Sea is an inlet of the Arabian Gulf that nearly cuts Qatar off from the Saudi Arabian Peninsula and literally runs along the border, so that you will be looking at Saudi Arabia across the water. The secluded beaches attract flamingoes at certain times of the year and are also visited by free-roaming camels on regular occasions.

The best way to experience the desert is by camping, and organized tours drive you through the desert to luxury bedouin tents, set up dinner and organize camel rides or sand-skiing for you. And after spending the night comfortably in the desert under more stars than you ever thought existed, you can go swimming in the Inland Sea before having a picnic lunch and heading back to town.

Mention the Singing Dunes to your guide, he can arrange for you to have a go at sliding down the horse-shoe-shaped dunes and making them sing!"

The Oldest Brewery in America

The Yuengling Brewery in Pottsville, Pennsylvania is the oldest brewery in America. Eric D.Lehman, writer for hackwriters.com, visits the brewery in his article; America's Oldest Brewery.

"The road to Yuengling Brewery winds through some strange, backwoods country: heaps of churches, porno shops, and prefab houses, set on the small, steep hills, all facing the road, so that each looks into another’s backyard. Down the road is the smoking turf of Centralia, where coal mines were accidentally set on fire fifty years ago and will burn for hundreds of years to come. A dreary sky broods behind dark clouds and throws an occasional spatter of rain at us. The macadam is gray. The journey is holy. Mecca. Jerusalem. Lhasa. Pottsville, Pennsylvania.

In the double-level brewing chambers a mural sweeps across one wall and a stained glass window squares itself in the ceiling. These contrast with the grimy appearance of the floor, the railings, and the brewmaster. The huge stainless steel vats look spotless, however. Workers clean them at the end of every day. The crusty guide explains that the vats used to be copper and the glare was so bad from the ceiling window that the colored glass was installed. Someone makes a joke about this being a church and no one laughs.

Finally, we are led into a narrow, wood-paneled chamber that houses a bar with several taps. We sit down on an oak bench and check out the ancient photos and awards that line the walls. Everyone is given the choice to taste any of the Yuengling brews: Lager, Black and tan, Premium, Light, Lord Chesterfield Ale, and the number one Porter in the world. The beer tastes fresh and smooth like malted spring air. We all comment on the wonderful flavors and textures, praising the process we had so recently witnessed."

Relax with Horses in Lexington Kentucky

Lexington Kentucky is known for it's horse races. Experience the Keeneland racetrack which is an alternative to the popular Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville. Tim Leffel, writer for GoNOMAD.com, writes about his entertaining visit to Lexington in his article; Lexington, Kentucky: Where Bourbon, Betting and Breeding Are a Family Affair.

"Kentucky is the land of great bourbon and great horse breeding. This time it really is “something in the water.” The limestone in the soil and the spring water makes for good horses and good whiskey. You can experience both at Keeneland race track, and do some betting to give you a reason to cheer and shout.

Keeneland is set up well for family budgets. General admission is three bucks and parking is free. You can feed everyone and buy some drinks without taking out a second mortgage -- unlike the scene at the average professional sporting event. Of course if you want to you can go plenty upscale. There are fancy restaurants, reserved box seats filled by ladies with fancy hats, betting windows that will take very large wagers and lots of great small-batch bourbon on offer. But spending a wad is an option rather than a requirement.

To get a more intimate view of thoroughbreds and the life they lead, take a tour to a working horse farm. Terre Crider of Tours of Tradition took us to one of the greats: Claiborne Farm. This is where Bold Ruler sired Secretariat and where both are now buried. The farm has produced six of the eleven Triple Crown winners and if visitors are lucky they’ll see former Kentucky Derby winner Monarchos, who is a popular stud."

Fresno~ A Funky, Fun, City

Fresno, CA is home to an ecclectic mix of attractions. From a Japanese health oasis garden to a tea shop that sells scones and egg salad sandwhiches served by waiters and waitresses in Victorian era garb. Evan Rail, a writer for New York Times Travel, explores Fresno in his article; Fresno, Calif.

"FIRST things first: Fresno has gotten something of a bum rap. It's usually thought of as an isolated place to pass through rather than go to. But perhaps because of that isolation, Fresno itself has turned into a quirky destination. Here, generations of immigrants from around the world have mixed together and invented their own ways of doing things, from underground gardens to far-more-than-organic peace farms. Moreover, if you plan to explore Yosemite, Sequoia or Kings Canyon National Parks, Fresno's location in the middle of California's long San Joaquin Valley makes it a perfect base. It's not exactly cool — at least not literally, certainly not in the summer — but the 'No can be a surprisingly individualistic city.

Start the day with a chicken-pie omelet ($6.75) at Grand Marie's Chicken Pie Shop (861 East Olive Avenue, 559-237-5042), a midcentury diner the size of a hardware store. Farmers, welders and poets sink into avocado-green vinyl booths for endless cups of coffee and huge plates of stick-to-your-everything fare: eggs, links, patties, bacon, pancakes and the pies ($4.75). Fresno hipsters meet here before tracking down what must be the valley's greatest natural resource: a never-ending supply of pristine vintage clothing from shops like Retro Rag (733 East Olive Avenue, 559-497-0717), which stocks disco duds, 80's T-shirts and classic 50's chiffon dresses ($10).

Fair warning: in warm weather, the valley turns into an inferno, and about the only place to seek refuge is underground. From 1906 to 1946, Baldasare Forestiere created an expansive subterranean arboretum with trees from his native Sicily and around the world, digging some 10,000 square feet of bedrooms, skylights, living rooms, a kitchen, a chapel and even his own underground fishpond. Today, the Forestiere Underground Gardens (5021 West Shaw Avenue, 559-271-0734) are open to the public, and yes, they're mercifully cool when the mercury rises. Mr. Forestiere's great-nephew Andre lives on the site, giving tours (adults $10) at noon and 2 p.m., Wednesday to Sunday, Memorial Day to Labor Day"

The Power of Pyramids

World traveler and Gone Walkabout writer Steve Connolly decided to explore the pyramids without the aid of a tour guide. Once there, he took cues from other, rather interesting tourists, and felt the power of the ancient structures. His story is recorded in his Egypt (Jordan and Israel) travelogue.

"We reached the smallest of the three large pyramids. A stairway goes up on the outside surface, then a long climb down a rather narrow, very steep, very hot shaft into the pyramid. Not for the claustrophobic! We followed this passage until we were deep within the pyramid, down into the burial chamber. For a moment, the three of us were alone with two other girls there. Both of them were standing motionless up against the wall, spread out with their arms braced on either side of them. Hm? The three of us looked at each other, shrugged, and joined them.

Again, like in the Himalaya, I reached out to sense the flow. What? There was a very powerful feeling here. In Nepal, I was surprised at the brightness I felt, "bright sparks into the air" I believe I said. This time, again, I was surprised. Somehow, I had expected to feel something similar to the mountains, energy shooting upwards into the air. Instead, I found something completely different. Yes, I definitely felt energy here, but rather than being directed outwards, it was coming down. Not the oppressive weight of all that stone pressing in, though I did get that as well. The energy was flowing down and into the land around me. I could almost picture it moving through the pyramid and pouring into the sand and stone around me. I could also somehow feel the other pyramids, though I could not quite grasp them, nor did I get anything from them. Well, it surprised me, and I don't think I was alone, as we all continued to stand there, ignoring the tourist mobs who laughed, took pictures and ran on to the next sight. I never asked the others what they felt, it was just too weird, but as we finally moved to leave, they both had the same expression on their faces, one which I probably shared with them. A mixture of peace, power, and awareness."

Traffic in Shanghai

When TheBackpacker.net writer Tara Russell visited the busy Chinese city of Shanghai and witnessed the commotion of city streets filled with bicycles and traffic. In the midst of an accident, the scene is startingly familiar to what one might witness on a street in downtown Boston or New York. However, Russell points out in her article A Day in the Life - Taxicab Drama that in Shanghai everyone weighs in on fault in the case of an accident.

"Catching a glimpse from ahead, I notice that what began as a small cluster of people in front of the stopped vehicles has quickly grown to a rather substantial crowd gathered in the middle of the street. In fact, people kept coming from every direction.

I asked my taxi driver if he had seen what had occurred. He disgustedly recounted the event. "The stupid driver hit the man on the bicycle. The policeman is here to end the argument."

Interesting. My taxicab driver had obviously sided with the bicyclist, despite the fact that he too was a driver. One of many unique things about China: the rights of the bicycler seem to outweigh those of the vehicle operator.

The driver continued to explain, "All the people are coming to give their opinion of what happened." As quickly as he had finished these words, he too was shouting at the top of his lungs, poking his head from the window in order to vocalize his thoughts on the situation.

Another interesting comment. A vast array of observers was gathering at the scene. Some appeared to be passing bicyclers, others wandering to the dispute seemed to be pedestrians, but the most intriguing participating bunch was those emerging from the shops and small residences lining the streets. None of these people, however, seemed to have first handedly witnessed the accident."

From Crumbling Famhouse to Thriving Restaurant/Bar

John and Trish, UK residents, packed up and moved to Spain one day attempting to turn an old Spanish farmhouse into a bustling restaurant/bar. Could they do it? Read about their challenge in writer for escape artist, Elaine Ablett's, article; Open a Bar in Remote, Rural Spain-Are You Crazy?

"In March 2005, Geoff, a friend (and property developer) approached John and Trish and asked them to take time away from their well established busy, thriving bar/restaurant and drive out into the country to view some old farmhouses that were on the market for sale which he thought would make an ideal bar/restaurant. Reluctantly, John and Trish agreed (they really were against the idea as they had no plans to sell up their existing business that they had worked so hard to establish).

The old farmhouses (the two were joined together) were in a very poor state of repair. They were situated in a remote location - this was "real Spain" - bordering the nearby Sierra de la Pila nature reserve, surrounded by mountains, no immediate neighbours - just a few Spanish houses glimpsed in the distance. John and Trish, like most who visit here, fell in love with the area but still were not sure about taking on the challenge of setting up a new business here. How would a British business survive in this remote area? Where would the customers come from? How would the Spanish people react to a British bar/restaurant opening up here?

Geoff then dropped a bombshell (but quite a nice one!). He had just bought up 1.7 million sq m of land and would shortly be starting on a new development of over 3,000 houses. With detached bungalows starting from only 109,000? (yes, approximately only £72,000!) these were surely going to be a popular buy!) - and the farmhouses would sit slap bang in the middle of this development! Well, this was an opportunity not to be missed and needless to say John and Trish decided to take the challenge.

The bar restaurant now has a bar/lounge area, a separate dining room, an additional room (which usually turns into a dance floor on entertainment nights!), outside patio area (and accommodation is also available at the most competitive of prices!).
As with most businesses, it was a slow start, but from week to week the business is growing. The Celtic Cross offers a warm welcome to all its visitors and is fast becoming a popular drinking/eating place. "

Speeding through Security

Waiting in line for hours at the airport can put a damper on any vacation. However, GoNOMAD writer Jessica Taryn investigates one way we can speed up this process and get to our travel destinations faster in her article Clear Pass Membership Cuts Down on Airport Waiting Time.

"Everyone is sick of waiting in lines at the airport, but we all want optimal security measures taken to make sure we are safe when we fly. So what is the solution? A company called Verified Identity Pass, Inc. thinks they may have found it, and Orlando International Airport agrees.

The Clear Membership allows frequent travelers to be pre-screened, issued a Clear Member’s card, which they then scan in the Clear Lane at the airport, and within seconds their fingerprints and iris images are matched to those embedded in their card and they are free to proceed, significantly minimizing time spent in security lines.

Having begun operations in July 2005, VIP Inc. now has 13,000 Clear Members. Each member has filled out an application, which is available online, and has submitted two acceptable forms of identification, including a photo ID.

The applicants submitted all fingerprints, both iris images, and their applications along with their biometrics to the US government’s Transportation Security Administration, which is a unit of the Department of Homeland Security. The TSA then performed “Security Threat Assessments” and approved their applications.

Once approved, the member received his or her Smart Card in the mail, which can be activated by phone, at a local kiosk or in person at the airport. Cindy Rosenthal, director of public relations and marketing at Verified Identity Pass, Inc. says that the entire process from the time you fill out the application until the time you receive your membership card should be about two to four weeks. The company tries to make the process as easy as possible for potential members."