FInding Europe in Richmond

It’s always exciting when you find a really wonderful restaurant, and even more so, when that place brings back memories of the food you’ve had on your travels. I never expected to find such a gem in Richmond, Virginia but the tiny Café Rustica on Main Street in the heart of downtown is a treasure.

Chef /owner Andy Howell spent several years living in Germany, which must be where the large, chalet-style cuckoo clock over the bar comes from, so I decided to try one of my favorites from that region, Schwieneschnitzel. It was really crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and came with a great, tangy red cabbage. You have to eat schnitzel while it’s really hot, so I gobbled it down and barely had room for dessert, but what self-avowed chocoholic can resist something called “Chocolate Paté?”

My friend had the rosemary oven-roasted chicken (Pollo Asado) which was delivered on a hot skillet with roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus. I had a taste (or three) of that as well, and it was wonderful. In fact, I’ll have to go back as everything on the menu sounded wonderful. Described as “European Comfort Food”, Café Rustica is definitely going to be a favorite of mine.

I overheard several locals at the bar chatting, and one had been a patron of Chef Andy since his first venture in Richmond almost 20 years ago. That kind of loyalty is the best kind of compliment, and I’m eager to join the fan club. (414 E. Main Street, (804) 225-8811)

Virginia is For Lovers

This is my new home in historic Church Hill in Richmond. Just a few blocks from my house, Patrick Henry gave a rousing speech at St. John’s Church during the Revolutionary War, and this city is loaded with Civil War historical sites as well. I’m excited to be spending the summer in my home state, and have unearthed my original Virginia is for Lovers t-shirt to celebrate my homecoming.

Also right down the street from house is the 17th Street Farmers Market, which I plan to explore this weekend and a ton of trendy eateries in Shockoe Bottom near the old red brick train depot. Virginia food is about a lot more than peanuts, so look for some more Richmond dining spots soon.

Visiting Virginia's First Ice Bar

Richmond, Virginia is buzzing about Infuzion’s Ice Lounge, not only a first for the city, but for the U.S. as well, according to their website. If donning an insulated parka and gloves and drinking cocktails “in the rocks” sounds like your style, this is the place. Your $15 buys you 30 chilly minutes in the cavern where the tables, bar, and highball glasses are all made of frozen H2O. You’ll also get a “been there, done that” souvenir photo from your session. If you’ve ever been to the Ice Hotel in Sweden or Quebec, this closet-sized ice bar housed in walk-in freezer won’t be very impressive, but for Richmond residents and those who haven’t ever visited the grand scale ice palaces, Infuzion is big news and something different to do.

But, there’s much more happening at this hip venue than just chilling out in a frozen tavern. Also inside this renovated 1940’s-era warehouse in the historic Scott’s Addition neighborhood are a cosmopolitan dance club and a new tapas-style lounge.

www.infuzionlounge.com

Red, White,and Drunk All Over

Natalie Maclean’s new book is a self-proclaimed “wine-soaked journey from grape to glass” and is as much fun to read as the title suggests. This is one wine expert with a good nose, but no snobby attitude. The book has gotten rave reviews from the L.A. Times, The Minneapolis Star Tribune and the Seattle Times to name a few, and if my opinion counts, now from here. Published by Bloomsbury ($14.95),it’s available at most major retailers and online.

It’s a fun way to learn about wine in a Bridget Jones’ Diary sort of moment, and MacLean’s website offers great resources like a food-and-wine matcher with thousands of recipes and wine pairings. She also has a free e-newsletter with tips on wines to buy, and what to store in the cellar. www.nataliemaclean.com

A Fitting Farewell

On my last night at the Hilton Papagayo, I met a nice couple from California who had just arrived at the resort. They had taken a red-eye and were experiencing serious jet lag, but were trying to reset their internal clock by staying awake until Costa Rican bedtime, something I also do when traveling to get on the local time as soon as possible.

We both had reservations for dinner at the resort’s fine dining outlet, El Dorado, so we decided to share a table. Included in the all-inclusive package (which is ending October 31st when the resort will transition to the standard á la carte Hilton model) are two dinners at either El Dorado or the Italian grill. El Dorado is definitely the way to go with this pick.

The lovely and intimate dining room is located next to the main restaurant near the pool, and the menu is filled with continental classics done Costa Rican style. I chose the seafood medley, sort of a paella without the rice…prawns and lobster and mussels piled high on a pristine white plate. My West Coast friends tried other options, including the local take on filet and mashed potatoes. This is the one outlet on the property where the Executive Chef can show off his talent and was a perfect place for my farewell dinner.

Snack Food Heaven

At the Hilton Papagayo, the pool is on three levels. On the top level, you can swim, take a water aerobics class, or belly up to the Fuente de Vida bar. On the lower level, a volleyball net is set up and there’s always a game on. On the very bottom level, you can chill out within steps of the poolside grill which has the best lunch offering on the property.

I pigged out on chicken tacos, nachos, and a beef enchilada. Not only is this one of my favorite kinds of food, but when the tortillas are made fresh and the veggies are also right off the vine and tree, it can’t be beat. The grill also makes pizza, hamburgers and a variety of sandwiches and everything looked great. Special orders for the kids are no problem, and the service, as elsewhere in the resort, is incredibly friendly.

Do be careful of the bees that hang out at the soda machine. It’s part of the natural setting…if you want to hang out in an eco-friendly resort, you have to like all the indigenous critters.

Elbow Bending at El Rituel

The great thing about all-inclusive resorts is that alcoholic drinks are free. So, it’s not surprising that swim-up pool bars like Fuente De Vida at the Hilton Papagayo stay busy throughout the day. The friendly bartender there gave me an insider tip: he said in Costa Rica, locals don’t order “cerveza”…they ask for “una bierra”.

While the swim-up bar stays busy during the day, at 4 p.m. guests begin to gravitate to its landside counterpart, El Ritual. If you want to try a local ‘bierra’, order an Imperial, but with the abundance of fresh fruit here, you’ll definitely also want to try some kind of fruity rum drink or frozen concoction.

While hanging out at El Ritual, I met a really nice young man who is doing charity work in Sri Lanka, and a private pilot who had flown some high roller in for a week at the Four Seasons across the Bay. He said Bill Gate’s plane was also at the airport, so he was obviously over there too, and Michael Jordan owns a house there. On my earlier jet ski tour of the area, we drove by it and at least from the outside, for 10 times the price, it’s got nothing on the Hilton in terms of location or ambiance.