TravelingFood

Hanging Out With Thomas Jefferson

2008-07-17T08:41:00.001-07:00

I just got back from a weekend at one of the most historic resorts in Virginia, The Homestead in Hot Springs. Since 1766, America’s presidents and most prestigious families have been retreating to this mountain resort for a little R & R, a lot of golf, and to take advantage of the therapeutic springs.

The view of the stately red brick colonial hotel is breathtaking when you arrive. Decorated in colonial style, The Homestead has a laid back, Southern vibe where casual golf and tennis clothes are replaced by jacket and tie for dinner in the Main Dining Room. The resort offers a European-style meal plan which includes dinner and breakfast, definitely a better value than booking your room separately, especially since other dining options off property are minimal. This is a resort made for extended stays, whose slogan is “your home away from home”.

My sister and I took the hotel shuttle to the nearby Jefferson Pools in Warm Springs to soak up a little history. It is widely accepted that regular visitor, Thomas Jefferson, designed the octagonal-shaped men’s bath structure. You can soak in either that pool or the women’s pool for $17 an hour in the warm mineral springs that have been rejuvenating weary travelers since George Washington’s day. In the women’s bath, there’s a chair on a platform with a pulley mechanism that may be the first handicapped-accessible bathing in America. It was designed for Robert E. Lee’s invalid wife so that she could partake of the healing waters. Feeling very relaxed after floating in the bath-tempature mountain waters, we headed back to The Homestead to dress for dinner in the Main Dining Room.

This elegant ballroom is filled with sparkling crystal chandeliers and tables are set around a central dance floor. A three-piece combo played classic tunes, and fathers took their daughters for a spin before and after dinner.

The dinner menu offers several selections of appetizers, entrées, and desserts, and special dietary needs can be easily accommodated. For my starter, I chose the portabello mushrooms wrapped in phyllo with goat cheese and beets. The sweet beets were a wonderful complement to the chalky goat cheese. For my entrée, I went for the fresh Mountain Trout, a local specialty that the resort’s fly fishing outfitter will teach you to catch in one of the mountain streams. It was perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside and moist on the inside.

Unfortunately, there was no chocolate on the dessert menu and since I was stuffed anyway, I retired to my room in the West Wing to rest up for the gigantic buffet breakfast. www.TheHomestead.com

Breakfast Under Glass

2008-07-06T12:45:00.001-07:00

My breakfast in the Main Dining Room of the Greenbrier was elegant, and my server, Joyce, had great stories since she has worked there for 40 years. She recommended the Eggs Benedict, which are included in the huge buffet, so I ordered those and then set off to load my plate with raspberry stuffed brioche, blueberry Belgian waffles, fresh fruit, quiche lorraine, and tons of other goodies.

By the time I returned to my table, Joyce was approaching with my beautiful eggs. I devoured those and moved on to the dessert portion of my morning meal. It’s good that experts say you should have a hearty breakfast, because I ate as much at that one meal as I usually do in a whole week.

Dinners here are formal (jacket and tie required), but breakfast is resort casual. Even at breakfast, the chandeliers are magnificent, setting the tone for an elegant meal

Gourmet Golf at the Greenbrier

2008-07-04T06:09:00.000-07:00

Growing up in Washington, D.C., I had heard about the fabulous Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia for as long as I can remember. My mother, who worked at the Pentagon in the Defense Department, knew about the secret bunker built into a hillside at the resort that was intended to house Congress in the event of a nuclear attack, but never said a word about it until it was declassified in the early 90’s. Finally, this past weekend, I had a chance to visit both the bunker and the restaurants at this incredible mountain retreat in the Allegheny Highlands.

My sister, her daughter Susie, and grandson Joe, accompanied me and we started with dinner at the Sam Snead Golf Club. No burgers and club sandwiches here…touted as the “casual” dining room (no jackets and ties required), the Club overlooks one of the beautifully manicured golf courses at the resort. I started with the huge sea scallops, while Susie chose the Beef Carpaccio. Both were wonderfully tender and tasty, and I couldn’t wait for my “Maine” course, lobster.

I wasn’t disappointed. If lobster isn’t fresh, it can be as chewy as a rubber band, but this was melt-in-your-mouth pleasure, and the savory broth full of vegetables was complemented the rich and buttery taste of the crustacean. My nephew, Joe, only had a bowl of French Onion soup, since he already had his eye on dessert, a raspberry crème brulée.

He pronounced it the “best” of all the crème brulées he’s ever had, and even waited for 10 seconds to dive in, so I could snap a picture. The table next to us burst out laughing, whispering and pointing at us when I whipped out my camera to capture the dishes we had ordered. I guess they thought we were a bunch of hillbillies who had never eaten at a nice restaurant, and that’s why we were taking pictures of our food.

Eating brettljause in Richmond

2008-06-24T10:53:00.000-07:00

What I absolutely loved about the European Market & Café was its selection of some of my favorite European products. Located on West Main Street near Virginia Commonwealth University, this place does a roaring take-out business with its gourmet sandwiches, soups, and ready-to-heat selections.

I had dropped by for lunch and as it was very busy, ended up creating my own menu from the take-out offerings. This is the perfect place to pick up not only lunch or dinner, but also an impromptu picnic. A great cheese display stocks some of my favorite French brie and a triple cream called Saint André that I’ve had difficulty finding, and the meat section includes an Italian ham called speck that I love.

They also have an excellent selection of European beers, with several good German and Belgian choices, including a great, lemony summer beer called Stiegl. What’s nice is that you can buy these as singles or mix and match a six-pack and get a 10% discount on the total. Often it’s harder to find these imported beers than to find European wines, but the Café stocks a decent selection of those as well, alongside olive oils, condiments, pastas, and chocolate from Italy, France, Spain, and Germany.

If you’re a fan of antipasto, you can create your own platter ($9.95-$14.95) or you can build a cheese or paté sampler of your favorites. I love the traditional European snack, called Brettljause by the Austrians, which is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses, and garnishes, and the European Market has the authentic ingredients to create one of your own. In fact, I got to know GoNomad’s editor, Max Hartshorne, over several glasses of good wine and beer and several boards of Brettljause.

The vodka and marinara sauces are packaged in take-home sizes, as are the desserts which include cannolis ($3), a Molten Lava soufflé ($4), several flavors of Italian Gelato and Sorbet ($5.95 a pint),individual brownies and cookies, and a “pastry du jour”, which was a luscious apple and raisin tart on the day of my visit. I couldn’t resist adding a dollop of whipped cream to that when I got home.

Since a huge part of the European Market’s business is take-out, complete menus for the lunch and dinner fare, as well as for catering, are available to take home. Because this is a small place with limited staff, eating lunch or dinner in the Café is going to be continental in timing as well, so if you’re in a hurry, call in your order for pick-up.

www.euromarketgourmet.com

My First Garden Tea

2008-06-08T18:50:00.000-07:00

I went to my first garden tea a few days ago, and not in just any garden. The Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens in Richmond are one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Located on the north side of town in an area called Lakeside, the site features several themed gardens including a healing garden and a brand new rose garden, as well as a conservatory with a wonderful display of orchids and tropical plants.

There's also a special children’s area which is part playground, part garden, part learning center and in addition to the casual café where you can get snacks to enjoy on the grounds, there’s a lovely Tea House that should be called the Tree House, since it’s nestled high in the green canopy and is walled with windows.

I had a very serene and ladylike lunch, and sampled some Southern favorites including shrimp and grits. More contemporary entrees included a panini with brie and peaches, as well as a variety of soups and salads, and the prices were very reasonable in the $5 to $10 range. Desserts ran the gamut from a light mango sorbet to a decadent chocolate brownie sundae, which came with a large dish of whole walnuts so that you could garnish it to your heart’s content.

The garden hosts a wide variety of special events from jazz concerts and wine tastings in the Rose Garden to a Fidos After 5 event every Thursday where visitors can bring their leashed and well-behaved pooches for an evening stroll. There’s also a huge gift shop that’s worthy of visit in and of itself, as it contains not only everything imaginable for the would-be gardener, but handcrafted jewelry, gift items, and art.

The garden is open daily from 9-5, and in the evenings for special events. www.lewisginter.org

LuLu's is One

2008-05-28T13:16:00.001-07:00

Everyone told me that LuLu’s was one of the new hot spots in Richmond, so I decided to check it out. Located in trendy Shockoe Bottom, LuLu’s is modeled after the hip, martini-crowd restaurants in New York with industrial piping on the ceiling and modern art on the walls.

The food is upscale, urban comfort food so I decided to try their spin on one of my favorites, mac and cheese. Called High-Falootin’ Mac and Cheese With Grilled Shrimp, the dish was very disappointing. Five very small (and most likely frozen) shrimp sat atop a mountain of penne pasta tossed with white cheddar, gruyère, and gorgonzola cheese.

The cheese wasn’t totally melted and had been nowhere near an oven, so my favorite part of mac and cheese, the slightly burnt cheesy crust on top, was missing. Had it been a homerun, the $18 price tag wouldn’t have bothered me, but I was wincing over dropping almost $20 on this bland entrée. Fortunately, my appetizer of Fried Green Tomatoes with a spicy remoulade had been really wonderful and filled me up.

One glass of wine, one appetizer, and one entrée totaled $38, so this is not an inexpensive nosh. Service was so-so…my waiter was efficient, if not friendly, although the cute young hostess was a sweetheart.

With prices at an all time high, I would expect more from an eatery in this price range. www.lu-lusrichmond.com

Visiting the Farmer's Market

2008-05-21T19:06:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things about European cities are the bounty of outdoor food markets. I got up early on Saturday to visit my local market, just down the hill from my house at 17th Street near Richmond’s old train station. This area is called Shockoe Bottom and is a foodie destination, as there are several cool restaurants lining either side of the Farmer's Market. A few years ago, this whole low-lying neighborhood flooded badly, but now it's back and better than ever.

It’s a fairly small market, and it’s early in the season, so not all of the booths were filled. In addition to freshly picked strawberries, tomatoes and squash, there were several vintage dealers with treasures from the past to peruse. I bought my veggies for the week, some of the sweet strawberries to make that Southern classic…strawberry shortcake...and also scored a great deal on a 9 x 12 Karastan rug. Forget going to the M-A-U-L, I was in shopping heaven!

FInding Europe in Richmond

2008-05-12T11:49:00.000-07:00

It’s always exciting when you find a really wonderful restaurant, and even more so, when that place brings back memories of the food you’ve had on your travels. I never expected to find such a gem in Richmond, Virginia but the tiny Café Rustica on Main Street in the heart of downtown is a treasure.

Chef /owner Andy Howell spent several years living in Germany, which must be where the large, chalet-style cuckoo clock over the bar comes from, so I decided to try one of my favorites from that region, Schwieneschnitzel. It was really crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and came with a great, tangy red cabbage. You have to eat schnitzel while it’s really hot, so I gobbled it down and barely had room for dessert, but what self-avowed chocoholic can resist something called “Chocolate Paté?”

My friend had the rosemary oven-roasted chicken (Pollo Asado) which was delivered on a hot skillet with roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus. I had a taste (or three) of that as well, and it was wonderful. In fact, I’ll have to go back as everything on the menu sounded wonderful. Described as “European Comfort Food”, Café Rustica is definitely going to be a favorite of mine.

I overheard several locals at the bar chatting, and one had been a patron of Chef Andy since his first venture in Richmond almost 20 years ago. That kind of loyalty is the best kind of compliment, and I’m eager to join the fan club. (414 E. Main Street, (804) 225-8811)

Virginia is For Lovers

2008-05-07T06:42:00.001-07:00

This is my new home in historic Church Hill in Richmond. Just a few blocks from my house, Patrick Henry gave a rousing speech at St. John’s Church during the Revolutionary War, and this city is loaded with Civil War historical sites as well. I’m excited to be spending the summer in my home state, and have unearthed my original Virginia is for Lovers t-shirt to celebrate my homecoming.

Also right down the street from house is the 17th Street Farmers Market, which I plan to explore this weekend and a ton of trendy eateries in Shockoe Bottom near the old red brick train depot. Virginia food is about a lot more than peanuts, so look for some more Richmond dining spots soon.

Visiting Virginia's First Ice Bar

2008-04-27T15:33:00.000-07:00

Richmond, Virginia is buzzing about Infuzion’s Ice Lounge, not only a first for the city, but for the U.S. as well, according to their website. If donning an insulated parka and gloves and drinking cocktails “in the rocks” sounds like your style, this is the place. Your $15 buys you 30 chilly minutes in the cavern where the tables, bar, and highball glasses are all made of frozen H2O. You’ll also get a “been there, done that” souvenir photo from your session. If you’ve ever been to the Ice Hotel in Sweden or Quebec, this closet-sized ice bar housed in walk-in freezer won’t be very impressive, but for Richmond residents and those who haven’t ever visited the grand scale ice palaces, Infuzion is big news and something different to do.

But, there’s much more happening at this hip venue than just chilling out in a frozen tavern. Also inside this renovated 1940’s-era warehouse in the historic Scott’s Addition neighborhood are a cosmopolitan dance club and a new tapas-style lounge.

www.infuzionlounge.com

Red, White,and Drunk All Over

2008-04-21T17:50:00.000-07:00

Natalie Maclean’s new book is a self-proclaimed “wine-soaked journey from grape to glass” and is as much fun to read as the title suggests. This is one wine expert with a good nose, but no snobby attitude. The book has gotten rave reviews from the L.A. Times, The Minneapolis Star Tribune and the Seattle Times to name a few, and if my opinion counts, now from here. Published by Bloomsbury ($14.95),it’s available at most major retailers and online.

It’s a fun way to learn about wine in a Bridget Jones’ Diary sort of moment, and MacLean’s website offers great resources like a food-and-wine matcher with thousands of recipes and wine pairings. She also has a free e-newsletter with tips on wines to buy, and what to store in the cellar. www.nataliemaclean.com

A Fitting Farewell

2008-04-12T03:28:00.000-07:00

On my last night at the Hilton Papagayo, I met a nice couple from California who had just arrived at the resort. They had taken a red-eye and were experiencing serious jet lag, but were trying to reset their internal clock by staying awake until Costa Rican bedtime, something I also do when traveling to get on the local time as soon as possible.

We both had reservations for dinner at the resort’s fine dining outlet, El Dorado, so we decided to share a table. Included in the all-inclusive package (which is ending October 31st when the resort will transition to the standard á la carte Hilton model) are two dinners at either El Dorado or the Italian grill. El Dorado is definitely the way to go with this pick.

The lovely and intimate dining room is located next to the main restaurant near the pool, and the menu is filled with continental classics done Costa Rican style. I chose the seafood medley, sort of a paella without the rice…prawns and lobster and mussels piled high on a pristine white plate. My West Coast friends tried other options, including the local take on filet and mashed potatoes. This is the one outlet on the property where the Executive Chef can show off his talent and was a perfect place for my farewell dinner.

Snack Food Heaven

2008-04-11T13:28:00.000-07:00

At the Hilton Papagayo, the pool is on three levels. On the top level, you can swim, take a water aerobics class, or belly up to the Fuente de Vida bar. On the lower level, a volleyball net is set up and there’s always a game on. On the very bottom level, you can chill out within steps of the poolside grill which has the best lunch offering on the property.

I pigged out on chicken tacos, nachos, and a beef enchilada. Not only is this one of my favorite kinds of food, but when the tortillas are made fresh and the veggies are also right off the vine and tree, it can’t be beat. The grill also makes pizza, hamburgers and a variety of sandwiches and everything looked great. Special orders for the kids are no problem, and the service, as elsewhere in the resort, is incredibly friendly.

Do be careful of the bees that hang out at the soda machine. It’s part of the natural setting…if you want to hang out in an eco-friendly resort, you have to like all the indigenous critters.

Elbow Bending at El Rituel

2008-04-10T17:34:00.000-07:00

The great thing about all-inclusive resorts is that alcoholic drinks are free. So, it’s not surprising that swim-up pool bars like Fuente De Vida at the Hilton Papagayo stay busy throughout the day. The friendly bartender there gave me an insider tip: he said in Costa Rica, locals don’t order “cerveza”…they ask for “una bierra”.

While the swim-up bar stays busy during the day, at 4 p.m. guests begin to gravitate to its landside counterpart, El Ritual. If you want to try a local ‘bierra’, order an Imperial, but with the abundance of fresh fruit here, you’ll definitely also want to try some kind of fruity rum drink or frozen concoction.

While hanging out at El Ritual, I met a really nice young man who is doing charity work in Sri Lanka, and a private pilot who had flown some high roller in for a week at the Four Seasons across the Bay. He said Bill Gate’s plane was also at the airport, so he was obviously over there too, and Michael Jordan owns a house there. On my earlier jet ski tour of the area, we drove by it and at least from the outside, for 10 times the price, it’s got nothing on the Hilton in terms of location or ambiance.

Invite an Iguana to Breakfast

2008-04-09T05:24:00.001-07:00

Iguanas are indigenous to this region, and the property is full of them. One of them sat munching leaves on the bush right in front of my bungalow, and at the outdoor seating areas, they wander around looking for crumbs at breakfast and lunch, and seem totally comfortable with humans invading their space.

The Hilton Papagayo offers two breakfast options, a buffet breakfast at the main restaurant, La Cosecha, and an alfresco breakfast bar by the spa pool. Buffet-style restaurants are somewhat of an oxymoron, as no food that sits in a chafing dish for hours is going to be great. However, La Cosecha has two chef stations with made-to-order omelets, and one where you can get fresh corn tortillas and scrumptious pancakes flavored with vanilla and cinnamon. I had an omelet made which I then stuffed in my tortilla for a custom breakfast taco, and then I had a “dessert” of pancakes topped with syrup and fried plantains.

At Grill Del Fuego by the spa, which is a breakfast and lunch spot by day and an Italian eatery by night, the selection was smaller, but loaded with fresh fruit, a European style meat and cheese selection, cereals, and an omelet station. It’s a beautiful and peaceful spot with views of the water, but beware of leaving your food on the table unattended. Two big blue jays swooped in and tasted my breakfast when I got up to get a pastry, and a large iguana stationed himself by the bar to watch what we were eating, which definitely added to the tropical ambiance.

Costa Rica is very eco-conscious and the Papagayo resort is on government protected land because of the black sand volcanic beach. In addition to experience the natural wildlife, you’ll notice that everywhere on the property are garbage cans for both organic and solid waste.

Partying at the new Hilton Papagayo

2008-04-07T17:07:00.000-07:00

When these folks throw a party, it’s a show stopper! Celebrating the inauguration of Hilton’s new management relationship with the resort at Papagayo, this see-and-be-seen do was a huge deal, not just for the region, but for the entire country of Costa Rica. The President was slated to attend, the secret service had swept the grounds, and the clifftop Presidential Suite was ready, but he had to cancel at the last minute. Still, the Minister of Economy and several of Hilton’s top execs worldwide, as well as the top businessmen and social stars of this Central American country, turned out for the bash that was held poolside.

Scheduled to begin at 6 p.m., a late-breaking thunderstorm could have rained on Hilton’s parade, but the incredibly friendly and hard-working hotel staff managed to pack everything up, wait until the rain ended, and put it all back together again in just an hour. I was so impressed watching, not just catering employees, but housekeepers and literally every employee in the place, hauling furniture, sweeping up debris, and drying off every soaked surface to present what turned out to be a mini “festivale”.

The Executive Chef and his staff outdid themselves. Every guest was greeted with a tropical cocktail, and the spread of food from duck wraps to tiny spoons of lobster and avocado salad was both elegant and delicious. The hot table featured a huge roast beef, roast pork, and a triumph of a paella.

The party theme was based on Costa Rica’s seasons. During the dry (gold season), the country looks like a parched, golden map of hills and valleys, but once the rainy (green) season begins in June, everything turns into a verdant green. Staffers were costumed in these two themes and guests were asked to wear green and gold.

Eating Donuts in Miami

2008-04-04T05:10:00.000-07:00

I'm hanging out in the American Airlines Admiral's Club in Miami, taking advantage of the T-Mobile hotspot and the free coffee and donuts while I wait for my flight to Costa Rica. I've been invited to attend the Grand Opening of the Hilton Papagayo Resort which opened just about 10 weeks ago. It's nestled between the mountains and the natural volcanic sand beach on the Bay of Papagayo, and the 82-acre property has individual bungalows in a lush, tropical setting. The hotel has three restaurants and is currently all-inclusive, so I'll taste as many dishes as I can, in between horseback riding on the beach, sunbathing, and spa treatments. It's a rough life! Four of the suites have their own plunge pools, but I doubt I'll rate one of those. Even so, the opening party tonight should be a blast, and they've requested that guests wear green and gold to celebrate the end of winter (the Golden Season) and the beginning of spring( the Green Season). I wonder if the party food will be color-coordinated....

Learning About Wine While Traveling

2008-03-29T11:53:00.000-07:00

One of the best perks of being a travel writer, aside from the great trips we take, is the interesting people we meet on those trips. I got to know Lynn Hoffman while riding a bus through most of Italy and Germany one year, and became friends with him while tasting the local wines and beers of the Dolomites and German Alps.

Lynn is a novelist, with a couple of great books to his credit. His first, The Bachelor’s Cat, is a really fun read about how he found a stray kitten, and through the kitten, found love. His latest, Bang Bang, is a funny and satirical novel about gun control. But, Lynn’s background is actually in food and wine, and he wrote The New Short Course in Wine as a textbook for college-level hospitality classes.

It’s the definitive Wine 101 resource for learning everything from terminology to tasting, including learning about which grapes are used in which wines, what goes with what, and even what kind of glass to use.

Even though I know a thing or two about wine, I learned several things in reading Lynn’s book, and still refer to it often as a reference when I’m writing about wines. You can contact Lynn with questions or to find out where to buy his books at drfood44@verizon.net

One Strike, You're Out

2008-03-28T12:36:00.000-07:00

As a food writer, the rule of thumb is that if you have a bad experience at a restaurant, you should give it another try, but when both the food and service are below average, I feel it would be a disservice to send someone else there to spend their hard-earned money in these tough economic times.

Positioning themselves somewhere between the budget Olive Garden and the pricier Carraba’s, the Macaroni Grill offers similar fare and a faux-Tuscan atmosphere. I started with a cup of Chicken Toscana soup, which turned out to be a great deal at $2.99 as it was actually a bowl of soup with some fresh, hot bread. It was a hearty soup with bow-tie pasta, spinach and other veggies, and chunks of white meat chicken and was plenty for a light meal.

Unfortunately, my appetizer, a Shrimp and Artichoke dip, was disappointing in many ways. It arrived late, about 10 minutes after my soup, and instead of being a rich, thick dip, it turned out to be more of a watery soup consistency with some tiny shards of shrimp and some spinach, and no artichokes that I could see. The accompanying crostini was so hard I was afraid I would break my teeth on it. When I expressed my disappointment to my server, his response was “Well, nobody else has complained about it today.” Not exactly a testament to Macaroni Grill. My waiter never offered to replace the dish or take it off my bill, so I’ve taken Macaroni Grill off my list.

Eating Apple Butter and Hospital Food

2008-03-16T17:27:00.001-07:00

On my recent visit with my aunt in Strasburg, I received my annual order of four pints of apple butter that she and the ladies at Lebanon Church put up every fall. Since Shenandoah apples are the best in the world, this is great stuff! I love it on pancakes, and have been experimenting with using it on pork chops and all sorts of things.

It’s really come in handy this week, as I’ve been spending most of my time at Edward White Hospital here in St. Petersburg. My elderly neighbor had a bad fall and fractured her hip, as well as gashed her head. I was surprised to find out that hospital food has come a long way. While she was eating turkey, mashed potatoes, and carrots, I was drinking a lot of really bad coffee. That apple butter and a box of frozen Eggo waffles has literally saved my life this week!

Eating Lunch with Alfred Hitchcock

2008-03-08T16:39:00.001-08:00

Every year around this time, my sister and I take a beautiful drive into the Shenandoah mountains to meet our aunt in the charming town of Strasburg for her birthday lunch. Jackie Kennedy used to come here to explore the antique shops…something we planned to do after our lunch.

In past years we have eaten at the Victorian Strasburg Hotel, but this year my aunt wanted to try a new place that had just opened. She couldn’t remember the name of it, but said to look for the mannequins in the window. My sister, who was driving slowly down the street, said “Do you see any mannequins?” and I replied, “No, just a couple of old people at a window table”, and sure enough, that was the place. The “old couple” are supposed to be Alfred Hitchcock and his mistress, according to our friendly waitress.

The name of the restaurant is Frankie’s Rt. 11 Rathskeller, but it isn’t German in any way, shape, or form. In fact, for Strasburg, it’s downright contemporary in décor, with a nice wine list and a good selection of salads and sandwiches for lunch, and several interesting entrees on the dinner menu. I had a really good chicken club sandwich, while my sister and aunt tried the chicken salad and a salad with chicken tenders. The highlight of my aunt’s birthday meal, was by far, the homemade chocolate pie with whipped cream. I barely managed to grab a shot of it before she ate the last bite! The menu is full of comfort food standards, with most dinner entrees under $15 and lunches in the $5-7 range.

They don’t have a website yet, but just drive down W. King Street and look for the old people at the window table.

Sitting 12 Inches Away From Heaven

2008-02-28T05:21:00.001-08:00

On a recent flight to Paris, I discovered what a difference 12 inches can make in the quality of food and service you receive. On the way over, I was in the bulkhead seat directly behind the First Class cabin, a tantalizing few inches away from good food, unlimited cocktails, real china, and deferential service.

On Air France (www.airfrance.us), First class passengers get their own liter bottle of water to keep at their seat. Economy passengers have to beg for a Dixie cup of water every time they get thirsty. First class gets real china, glassware, and silverware, while economy gets plastic foil-wrapped cups of liquid, plastic cutlery, and plastic microwave containers of food.

In economy, you get one free cocktail and a choice of two entrees, but in First Class, you get unlimited aperitifs, cocktails, wine and after-dinner liqueurs to accompany your four-course meal, which I had the opportunity to experience on my return flight. With a choice of duck foie gras terrine or sautéed shrimp for hors d’Oeuvres, lamb noisette, red snapper, or Mediterranean chicken for the entrée, a cheese course, and a dessert sampler, it was like flying in a gourmet restaurant. Air France also has a lovely wine list that includes a delicate champagne, a White Languedoc, a Burgundy and a Bordeaux.

When you’re on a long, transatlantic flight, those 12 inches can make a world of difference. You can arrive sleepless, stiff, cranky, and hungry or well-fed, rested, and ready to see the sights, and while the price difference makes it difficult for us to go First Class all the time, it’s well worth searching out good sale fares to avoid sitting in what is increasingly becoming a “cattle car” in economy. Maybe they should just rename “Economy” and call it “Second Class” because passengers are certainly treated in that manner just 12 inches behind the First and Business class cabins.

Finding the Best Airport Lounges

2008-02-26T05:10:00.000-08:00

One of the best perks of flying first or business class is getting access to the pre-flight lounge. Especially with overseas flights where you have to check in two to three hours early, it’s great to have a comfortable place to while away the extra time and most of the lounges not only offer business centers with power outlets for laptops and phones, but also free beverages, snacks, newspapers, and magazines.

The Swiss Air lounge at New York’s JFK (a Star Alliance partner) is one of the nicest, with a hot buffet in addition to the standard nuts, cookies, and crackers. Complimentary wine, beer, sodas, juice and mixed drinks are also available at almost all airline club lounges. The new Air France club at Charles de Gaulle in Paris is huge, with separate dining and business areas and loads of take-on-the-plane snack food.

When I got stranded for hours in Stockholm and Chicago on a recent trip to Norway, I fervently wished I had a club membership, especially after paying $20 for a beer and peanuts at the Stockholm airport. You can buy a one day club pass from most airlines for around $25, while yearly fees range from $400-$500 depending on your frequent flier miles. If you have miles stockpiled, you can use those to buy a club membership as well (generally around 70,000 miles for an annual membership)

There’s also a company called Priority Pass (www.prioritypass.com) that offers a membership good at over 500 airline lounges worldwide. Prices are roughly the same as the individual airline clubs.

And, while amenities vary at every airport throughout the world, with the price of food and alcohol in the airports, a club membership easily pays for itself if you travel regularly.

Packing an Airline Survival Food Kit

2008-02-24T15:16:00.000-08:00

These days, with airlines charging for aisle seats, luggage, and now food, you have to really think ahead when you travel or you’ll starve before you ever reach your destination. On my recent trip to Quebec, I was dismayed to find that Air Canada doesn’t accept credit cards for food purchases. It was especially disappointing as it looked like they actually had decent food. Most other major airlines, including Jet Blue, won’t accept cash anymore which , at least, makes sense… their flight attendants don’t have to run up and down the aisle shouting “Does anyone have change for a $20?”

So, if I hadn’t had my emergency food rations in my backpack, I would have been out of luck on Air Canada. Thankfully, I had cheese, crackers, nuts, and a chocolate croissant stashed away, in addition to a bottle of water. You also have to be careful about where and when you buy your beverages, as I discovered in Europe on my last trip. Many of the airports there have not one security checkpoint, but two, so I wasted about $6 on a bottle of water after I cleared security only to find that I had to go through an additional security screening at my gate.

In many of the airports in Europe, like Vienna, once you go through screening to your gate, you’re a prisoner in the gate waiting area with no access to any kind of stores or restaurants so it’s impossible to get any liquids. In those cases, as soon as I board the plane, I ask the flight attendant for a bottle of water. If you ask early, before supplies start running low, you have a better chance of scoring.

A Meal Fit For a Queen

2008-02-07T05:38:00.000-08:00

On our last night in Quebec, we were treated to a spectacular dinner at the Chateau Frontenac’s fine dining restaurant, Le Champlain. This historic hotel has, in fact, hosted the Queen, as well as many other world leaders including FDR and Churchill during the Quebec Conference of WWII, and film royalty like Leonardo DiCaprio when he was in town filming “Catch Me if You Can”.

The hotel’s PR Director, Genevieve Parent, welcomed us with the special cocktail invented for the city’s 400th Anniversary, a Champlain Kir, and she brought along the hotel’s canine ambassador, Santol, who greeted everyone with a wagging tail and doggie kisses.

The Chateau’s Executive Chef, Jean Soulard was the first Canadian chef to win the coveted “Maitre cuisinier de France”. Born in a small French country village, he worked in France, Switzerland, and England before taking the reins at the Frontenac in 1993.

His country upbringing inspires and informs his authentic yet simple and elegant cuisine, and he even grows his own herbs on the rooftop of the Chateau. He prepared just such a menu for our dinner. The starter was a layered triumph with smoked duck , sautéed leeks, and goat cheese with a meat glaze and fried spinach. A leek and green pea soup was loaded with morel mushrooms and succulent chunks of lobster, and my filet with pepper sauce was perfectly cooked.

Add a fine red wine from Chile and the good company of my fellow travel writers in the elegant and historic setting of the Chateau, and it was truly a memorable evening. One of my colleagues even came up with a new idea for a political party in the U.S. called The Food Party, whose platform would support better artisanal bread and cheese in American cuisine.

Today, GoNomad editor Max Hartshorne is on his way to Winter Carnival, so be sure to check his blog and feature on this vibrant and welcoming city. (www.fairmont.com/Frontenac)