Finding Room at the Inn

Hidden in these unabashedly simple farming communities and small towns is one of the most romantic inns in Virginia, a member of the Select Registry of Distinguished Inns of North America. The Inn at Vaucluse Springs, midway between Winchester and Belle Grove Plantation, dates back to Federal days and features six private guest houses on 100 acres of rolling orchards.


The 200-year-old Manor House serves as the gathering spot for an elegant three-course breakfast and end-of-the-day socializing over fresh lemonade and cookies or a glass of regional wine. The Old Mill House, once an artist’s studio, sits at the spring’s edge, while the Gallery Guest House offers panoramic meadow views. Innkeepers Neil and Barry Myers offer genial country hospitality, elegant accommodations, and first-class food that have earned them top accolades for almost two decades.

My guest cottage was totally charming with a rustic ambience and upscale amenities including a gas fireplace, huge bathtub with jets, and gourmet coffee. I could have comfortably moved in for months, and the view from my balcony was peaceful. I had morning coffee out there and watched the rabbits and squirrels play in the trees and gently rolling hills beside the gurgling creek.

Breakfast was a three-course affair with attentive and friendly service. We started with delicious berry muffins, still warm from the oven and then moved on to homemade applesauce topped with crème fraiche. The main course was Eggs Vaucluse, a tasty scramble with fresh veggies, artisanal cheese, and a side of turkey sausage. Neil and Barry are happy to accommodate special dietary needs and requests, and you won’t need to ask twice. A couple at the next table were worried that their vegetarian meal had been forgotten, but no sooner had they voiced their concern to the server , their special meal arrived at the table.

All of the ingredients are regionally sourced, and many come from the nearby Marker-Miller Farmer’s Market, which the innkeepers highly recommend visiting. They’re also very knowledgeable about the wineries in the region, and happy to assist guests with directions. www.vauclusespring.com

Crazy for the Wayside Theater

Middletown is also home to the second oldest regional theater company in Virginia, and the newly renovated Wayside Theater and its adjoining Curtain Call Café are a wonderful place to spend an entertaining evening. I was fortunate enough to attend the opening night of Always, Patsy Cline which was a huge event for the community, not only because the popular country singer hails from these parts, but also because the theater had been closed for a massive renovation for over a year, and this was its debut performance in the new and improved space.

The Curtain Call Café next door offers a relaxing space to grab a drink before or after the performance, as well as at intermission. On the opening night, they hosted a cocktail reception with light appetizers for the sold-out crowd.

Some of Patsy Cline’s family were in the audience, along with the movers and shakers of the town who spearheaded the fundraising drive to renovate the historic theater.

Not Eating Dinner at the Wayside Inn

On my recent visit to the Shenandoah Valley, I was invited to have dinner at the Wayside Inn in Middletown, just a few miles outside of Winchester on Route 11. I was going to the opening night performance of Always, Patsy Cline at the newly renovated Wayside Theatre right down the street, so it seemed like a great plan.

Unfortunately, wicked thunderstorms delayed my arrival and by the time I arrived at the Wayside, all I had time for was a quick soup and salad, and a slice of chocolate cake. I did get a brief tour of the historic restaurant, including a peek at what used to be the slave kitchens, but is now a dining room. The Inn/Restaurant/Antique store used to be a stagecoach stop and is definitely worth a stop to look around and browse through the collectibles. I just wish I had actually had time to have a full meal.

Oddly enough, a couple dining next to us turned out to be old acquaintances from my days in the music biz, a member of the Baltimore band Crack the Sky and his lovely wife. They had been to the Wayside about a year previously and the manager remembered them.

Desirable Real Estate at The Cork Street Tavern

During the Civil War, the town of Winchester changed hands over 70 times. One of the oldest streets in the historic town, Cork Street, was named by Lord Fairfax in 1759 and is home to one of the oldest taverns in the area. Known for its hearty sandwiches and barbequed ribs, The Cork Street Tavern was a perfect choice for lunch on the day I explored the area.

I started with the rib appetizer, and as promised, the ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and perfectly seasoned. I had a few friends with me for lunch, so we all ordered different sandwiches so I could get a good sampling of the tavern fare. The crab cake sandwich passed the Eastern Shore test—more crab than breading—and the bacon burger with a healthy helping of fries was as good as any I’ve had. The only disappointment was the pulled pork BBQ sandwich, which was not nearly as good as the ribs and was drowning in sauce. Less is always more when it comes to barbeque, I think.

The tavern is old, full of wood and the requisite animal heads, and definitely has the ambiance of a place that has been around for quite some time. It’s located on the edge of the pedestrian-only shopping area in the center of town, which is filled with boutiques and local shops. (8 West Cork Street, Winchester, VA (540) 667-3777) www.virginia.org/site/description.asp?attrID=29632