Read More GoNOMAD Stories about Surfing
From huge swells and perfect barrels, to just trying to stand up, GoNOMAD has surfing stories from the most beautiful beaches in the world!
Here are some sample stories:
It is known simply as Maverick’s and tucked away behind a military communications center just north of Half Moon Bay.
Somehow a wave that breaks between twenty and sixty feet remained virtually unknown and unsurfed until the early-nineties.Only Jeff Clark surfed here from the mid-seventies to early nineties.
To most people Maverick’s wasn’t a wave you surfed, it was a navigational hazard endangering the boats entering Half Moon Bay.When Jeff Clark brought surf journalist to Mavericks in the early '90s, it quickly became recognized as one of the preeminent big wave surf spots in the world. I visited Mavericks on the right day. It was breaking around forty feet and some of the world’s greatest surfers were there for the Maverick's Surf Contest. This global contest happens when the conditions are right and surfers around the world get 24 hours notice to get to San Mateo County.
Huntington Beach California is the ultimate surfer's paradise. The eight and a half mile long stretch of beach in this city of about 200,000 south of Los Angeles is lit up at night with campfires.
Small circular barbecue pits dot the beach for miles and the locals love to sit beside them, casting an eery glow on their faces as you drive by on the seaside Pacific Coast Highway. Nowhere else in California's long coast can you legally build a campfire and sit by the warm glow like this.The waves are steady, and just about perfect for riding. And the surf breaks pretty far out, so when you catch a wave, you're in for a long ride to shore.
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Life, Love, and Catching the Perfect Wave
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