Magical Realism: The Land, Salt and Water of Bolivia The startlingly large land shimmers 360 degrees Blank as an empty page, a plane of possibility stretching white to the horizon, then blurring seamlessly into sky, a spattering of distant purple hills and “islands” are visible, floating on colliding light. Even having read the descriptions, the guidebooks and tour company fliers, even having seen the photographs, the vastness of this body—not of water, nor snow or ice, but of salt—is startling. The Salar de Uyuni, a sea of salt, a salt desert, in southwestern Bolivia, was once an inland sea, or giant salt water lake, but the water vanished into the thin dry air of Andean altitude. All that remains is the salt, tens of meters thick, lying stark beneath bright sky: a sun-bleached skeleton of a dead sea. Continue story... Suriname: Going Where No One Goes A journey into an empty black canvas in the jungle Suriname - I suppose the irresistible lure enticing me there was the chance, an off chance at that, to be dropped off by a small plane in the middle of its tangled jungles and left to my own devices. Or maybe it was the country’s almost total obscurity. One ticketing agent -- supposedly a South American ‘specialist’ -- wanted to know where exactly Suriname was. I promised to send her a map and continued making calls. I’ve always been drawn to the obscure because it’s a primary requisite for exploration, not that I had any grandiose notions of making any significant discoveries, except perhaps about myself. Continue story...

Hot Springs of the Sierras Soaking in the Northern Cali waters The best thing about the hot springs of the Sierras isn't that they're free of charge. The variety of the springs, the unique qualities of the waters and the stunning natural settings are enough to please outdoors enthusiasts, campers and hot spring enthusiasts. These springs are an excellent escape for people who want a relaxing weekend in an accessible location that feels remote from urban centers. The springs below are not commercial establishments, so there are no snack bars. Continue story...

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GoNOMAD Book Excerpt: Over Sand and Sea by Patrick Pfister Over Sand and Sea is a collection of Patrick Pfister’s tales about his journey around the world – from Florida to Karakorum to Bali to Fiji to Thailand and so forth to end his voyage, where he had to see his brother pass away. Pfister’s insightful and comical style of writing takes his readers onto an adventurous trip, visualizing the destinations with the great details and meeting his random acquaintances he’s made along the way. Continue story... El Mirador, Guatemala: La Gran Aventura The view was unbelievable. Untouched rainforest reached the horizon in all directions. Families of spider monkeys swung merrily through the treetops below us, while dozens of psychedelic birds soared around us. The toucans, our most abundant feathered friends, looked like flying bananas with their yellow and green beaks and breasts catching my eyes while their black bodies were lost in the shadows. As the day came to a close, the blaze orange sunset reflected off the wispy clouds and lit up half the sky. Continue Story Fast Hands, Not Flamenco The art and science of pickpockets We couldn't claim we hadn't been warned, a couple of times. First by the federal government who advised that Spain was safe to travel in but look out for pickpockets; the next time by our hotel whose information folder welcomed us in large print, "Do not carry valuables with you. Use your room safe." and then added, disconcertingly, at the bottom of the page, "We are not responsible for valuables left in room safes." continue story... Sand in the Peanut Straw: Living with the Camel Drivers We’ve all seen the brochures – trains of camel riders in brightly colored tunics, trekking towards sunset over dunes of virgin sand; smiling honeymooners sleeping under the stars on woolen rugs; groups of bronzed backpackers enjoying lunch under a shady tree while their camels graze nearby. Camel trekking is the fairy-tale romance of the safari world. I began to wonder what I was letting myself into for three days in the Thar Desert with only a camel to carry me, a few other tourists, and a quiet young Muslim guide; not knowing where we’d be taken to. Stories abound of unscrupulous camel drivers stealing food, demanding extra money and making unwelcome advances to trekkers. Continue story...

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