Letting it All Hang Out
Route 314 is filled with early morning zombies, all carrying boards that sparkle and catch the light that has just started breaking over the mountains to the east. There is little doubt that sleep has played no part in this early ritual; the restaurants have all just been scrubbed clean, ready for another busy day.
Soon you recognize the face of the guy with the long board. "The dolphin is super fresh,” he said at the restaurant. He was right. The guy looks as confident with his long board choice; there are two things he knows well, restaurants and waves, especially the waves down Rincon way. He is home for the winter once again. Don is a third generation East Coast rider with Rincon Puerto Rico on his yearly surf itinerary.
The kid’s name is Don and since 1968 and the first World Surfing Championship, this grandfather has worked in Montauk in summers and then headed down to the Caribbean Pipeline to work winters. He now lives most of the time running a business and riding waves.
The number of wait staff and kitchen crew serving you from Maine to the Carolinas that catch some of Sept. and early Oct. East Coast hurricane hits and then head to Rincon is amazing. It is then down to Rincon where they assume their restaurant roles and spend the winter balancing trays and boards with equal skill. Forget the Beach Boys, Springsteen rules.
Today Rincon caters to more than just wave riders. Now there is whale watching, snorkeling and soaking up some PR Latino lifestyle that brings visitors from all over. Sitting on the beach with some great food while staying in some very reasonable digs make Rincon a place to check out.
The great food served from small catering trucks lined up towards the south end of town, a reminder that you are in PR. If you don’t eat roadside you're missing the island's best eating tradition. Eventually when I hit a town that has magic, I am reminded that I should have been there years ago. I usually am just grateful that I’m there now. I got that feeling immediately in Rincon.
Rincon is spread over eight barrios and each has its own feel and character that seem to blend, modern intrusion not yet blight. Nearby I see a place that has roaring surf and not far away a beach calmer than a tub, pick your style, all are beautiful. Lodging choices spread just about as far and while one of Puerto Rico’s most expensive hotels is here, a beachfront rental is well within most budgets. The other hotels seem to be back in time a bit but not in a bad way. Yes my timing seems just right.
Five Steps to Heaven
It wasn’t easy but I eventually found my first lodgings right on the beach south of the main part of Rincon, next to a small public beach amidst local homes. Sunset Paradise Villas is the largest structure in the area and contains six separate units. The public spaces all have hammocks and a wonderful roof top pool and lounging area.
The water off of the villa was of the calm variety perfect for swimming and child friendly. My nightly walks in the neighborhood past families sitting in yards playing dominoes while riders on horse back cruised by gave me the feel of actually living like a local. The sound of roosters in the morning punctuated the thought. It's a niice area for a family or quiet retreat and the location to Rincon’s center makes it easy.
Never Enough Waves
North of Central Rincon runs the surfer’s route the legendry 413, past surf beaches such as Tres Palmas, Dogman’s, the Steps and the Indicators. Instead of urban iPhones, every one here seems to have a surfboard in hand. Nestled below hills are beach spots filled in with beach bars, restaurants and small inns, and rentals, a community all its own. One that once settled you will rarely want to leave.
Rentals run weekly, monthly and seasonally at some pretty good rates, think a simple style with Bohemian overtones. An afternoon beer at Tambo’s or a Thursday night movie shown outside at the Tree house often brings a gathering of the tribe. Perhaps what was most surprising is the fact that even non- surfers get some cred for just hanging out in such a sweet spot. This part of Puerto Rico has the most Caribbean feel found on the island. From El Faro Lighthouse whales can be spotted breaching and as all of Rincon faces west the sunsets will captivate.
Tucked Amongst the Traveling Palms
My lodgings just off 413 was the
Rincon has plenty of activities to keep a visitor busy such as deep sea fishing, diving and exploring. But it is the feel of Rincon that I found to be most important. Whether lying in a hammock as the sun warms or strolling beaches, each with different characteristics one is just as lifted. Relaxing here is just
It doesn’t take long for one to fit in and soon find meeting locals eager to share ideas and advice. Or even invite you to a party or event. Over some tapas at Casa Elena with toes in the sand that I did indeed run into a chum with a bottle of rum. Things may change with time but one has the feeling that in Rincon the important things remain.
To get the best feel and ideas for a visit to Rincon is a wonderful website, Rincon online besides some history and basic info, lodgings and Rincon's restaurants are well covered.
Hang Ten: There are no shortages of sites dedicated to surfing in Rincon, many with up to date wind and tide movements.
Kent St. John is GoNOMAD's Senior Travel Editor and writes more than anyone else about his travels around the world. He's always eager to go and hopes to hit the road again soon. He blogs every day at Be Our Guest, and Checking in, a blog about hotels. Read Kent St. John's articles.
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