Japan Nomads

Riding a bike in Japan

2007-08-30T15:40:00.000-07:00

Riding a bike is taken pretty seriously in Japan. For example, take a trip without your bike being registered or park in the wrong place, and your vehicle is at risk for impoundment or a hefty fine.

This is especially true if get caught riding while drunk or talking on a cell phone. These two rules are a big "no-no" here and are even punishable with up to a few years in jail. For a foreigner, these consequences may seem outrageous, but keep in mind that each culture has it’s own unique set of laws and repecting them is important.

In a few days, I will move out of the seminar houses (dormitories) of Kansai Gaidai and into a homestay. If the family I live with loans me a bike, I must make sure I go to the proper authorities and re-claim it in my name. Otherwise, if I am in transit and am pulled over, an officer will assume I stole the bike. While there is hardly any crime in Japan, bike theft is highly common.

I am also fascinated with what the Japanese are comfortable traveling with/in on their bike trips. Currently, Japan is in Monsoon season. This means it often rains cats and dogs. The Japanese are skilled riders and can travel with an umbrella in hand. Unfortunately, the roads can be slippery and accidents sometimes occur. Two days ago, I walked by two men riding in opposite directions, each holding an umbrella. I think one rider lost his balance, because when I looked back, one passenger was on the ground rubbing his head. When I ride my bike I will invest in an attachable umbrella holder and hope this gives me both rain protection and increases my safety.

Speaking of safety, I have yet to see any of the bikers wear a helmet. I was shocked by this as many of them ride long distances to work and school everyday. As for what is typical to notice about a rider: women dressed up in heels, skirts, and blazers, and men in suits or looking smart. Thus, don't get caught riding "ugly".

In general, I am noticing that many of the cultural things I am used to, like driving a car on the right side of the street, or reading from right to left, are done oppositely here.

I have only been in Japan for two days. What stories will I share in a week?

Northwest Airlines: Licensed to Reroute

2007-08-30T13:19:00.000-07:00

My flight to Japan began three days ago. In the amount of time I have been "traveling" or should I say re-routing, due to NorthWest Airline's incompetence, I could have been around the world two or three times!

My nightmare began on August 24th when I boarded a Jet Blue carrier in Boston. Scheduled to depart at 7:50 AM, the foggy weather in New York made this impossible. Hours later, when I arrived to JFK to make my connecting flight with NWA, I was informed my flight was to be rescheduled because my other connecting flight in Detroit had left on time, and thus I'd have no flight from Detroit to Japan.

Rudely, The NWA representative informed me that I had no choice but to wait in the airport until the following morning and complicate my plans by flying from Minneapolis to Honolulu to Osaka. In the case of many international flight cancellations (even weather related), airlines usually cut you some slack and give you a free room for the night or at least a meal. Yet, the NWA rep heartlessly told me that a weather problem was not her problem.

While weather conditions may be out of NWA control, should a passenger suffer if an airline can not reschedule until the next day?

The following morning did not restore my faith in NWA; my 8AM craft had mechanical problems and I missed my connecting flight in Minneapolis. Again, I was told by NWA reps that my flight to Japan would be canceled and that I would be rerouted...this time to Detroit.

Fortunately, the supervisor in Minneapolis offered that NWA would pay for my hotel in Detroit and give me $30 worth of meal vouchers. Unfortunately, once I tried to retrieve this compensation from the service center in Detroit, I felt like an airline gold digger; I was forced to explain and prove why I should be given this "perk".

The NWA Company has poor customer service and lacks organization, thus beware in booking with them (especially out of JFK). The other day I saw a news report about the nightmare of flying these days. From my experience with NWA, I admit this can truly be something to fear. Not only do we have to worry if our luggage will arrive on time, but we have to wonder if we will! At least for this time, I can say that I made it. Today I write you from Japan. Bansai! (Hurrah!)

TV on DVD in Japan

2007-07-24T20:56:00.000-07:00

American TV can be found around the globe and recently the transition to DVD has made it even easier to find American television everywhere. In Japan, along with a considerable number of Korean dramas, American television is found in abundance.

Many people here have been avid fans of 24, Prison Break and Lost. Even more popular for younger generations there are massive quantities of DVDs of Supernatural, The OC and Sex and the City. Stereotypes are often reinforced in these dramas. It's funny to hear what people imagine about America after watching our TV. Many students have believed that all Americans live in massive homes like the OC stars. And visions of American law enforcement must appears grim after the Fox thrillers.

Sometimes you have to question the shows that arrive in Japan. At a video rental shop yesterday I saw Pepper Dennis, Rebbecca Romain's short-lived sitcom. One time I even rented a rather dreadful Canadian sci-fi show called Charlie Jade about three dimensions all colored different tones of blue, green and red. It seems that action, dramas, and romantic sitcoms can make the cut, but comedies seldom do. I've yet to see The Office, Arrested Development or Seinfield anywhere in Japan. I hope someday we'll see more international TV make its way into America rental shops.

Ichirou, Nakamura, and Mao-chan

2007-07-21T06:58:00.000-07:00

Whether they love sports or hate them, it seems every Japanese person can name at least a dozen athletes and their claims to fame.

Ichiro Suzuki's recent in-the-park home run and All Star game MVP honors have continued his legacy as Japan's favorite athlete, greatest source of pride, and perhaps everyone's favorite person. In second place for baseball Matsuzaka and Matsui are in tough competition with Okajima fighting for his place too.

Outside of baseball there are many athletes that bring all Japanese pride. Among these are Miki Ando and Mao Asada (known affectionately as Mao-chan). These graceful ladies attract millions of Japanese fans to their televisions during competitions. Ando's quadruple jump at the 2002 Junior Grand Prix Final and continuous success at world events has made her a permanent star, along with the young Mao-chan who is currently ranked as the best skater in the world.

This evening another star the famous Shunsuke Nakamura is the star in the Japan-Australia game. Everyone is expecting good things from the Celtic player. And whether people follow sports or not they will know well if he does something amazing.

Monster Trucks in Japan

2007-07-19T23:12:00.000-07:00

Yesturday, as I walked my new roommate around town, she exclaimed, "that's unusual!" After a year in Japan I felt that I could expect to recognize what a new arrival would find surprising. However, as I turned around, I was equally stunned. What barrelled down the road was a typical box-sized tiny, little Japanese truck that had been converted into a monster truck! This shocking vision also captured the attention of everyone it passed on the street.

And speaking of strange vehicles, Himeji has a famous electric blue van with wings and stripes that's supposedly driven by the Yakuza - the Japanese mafia. I've seen it driving the streets of Himeji a few times, and I must say that even if it does harbor gun-wielding gangsters - it doesn't look particularly threatening. It resembles more closely an affluent garage band's ride.

There is also in Himeji a gang of high school motorcyclists. They ride their incredibly noisy motorcycles around the city late at night much to the irritation of the citizens of Himeji. However, from what I've heard, the worst thing they do is eat dinner late night near the castle and on occasion do wheelies in front of the train station during the yukata festival.

Sabishii in Japan

2007-07-15T04:09:00.000-07:00

It's been busy in Japan lately. My fellow blogger Sarah has returned to US and two new roommates have appeared. And just yesterday I decided to extend my contract and stay in Japan for at least another three months

The Japanese language is filled with words that have no translation. Just yesterday, a student asked me for a translation of friter - a term that applies here to young people that graduate from high school or university but continue to live off their parents while unemployed. All I could manage was bum, but this is obviously not an exact equation.

Another such word is sabishii. Lately all of my Japanese friends have said this to me while making a sad face when told about my lost roommate. They usually translate it as sad, but after a quick search through my dictionary, I found the word is more closely linked to lonely or desolate. Perhaps it is a bit dramatic, but yesterday, after moving into Sarah's empty room and realizing my phone card was empty, thus preventing me from calling my family back home, and after being hit by the enormity of three or four more months on the other side of the world, I did indeed feel a bit sabishii.

However, the things I am looking forward to with my extended stay are many. These include:

1. Improving my Japanese - I am finally able to have a short conversation and look forward to being able to lengthen my conversations and using them more widely.

2. Learning how to cook more Japanese food. With my new roommates moved in, we are starting group cooking sessions soon. Hopefully their skills will be easily picked up.

3. Talking to (maybe someday going out with) my ridiculously good-looking gym instructor.

4. Losing weight and thus finally being able to again enjoy Mister Donuts - the world's best donuts. (Apparently these really come from Boston, but I've never seen one there).

5. Traveling around Japan more. There are so many places yet to be seen. I recently learned about a desert not to far where one can go for camel rides.

6. Saving money to fund a tour through southeast Asia.

7. The Unknown - you never know what to expect in Japan - I always learn new things.

The Last Samurai - visiting Shosha-san

2007-06-27T18:38:00.000-07:00

Mt. Shosha, or Shosha-san as its known to the locals, is located about a 40-minute bike ride away from my apartment. Another 40-minute moutain climb and you can arrive at the Engyoji temple ground.

According to Kansai Scene magazine, "The chronicle about the origin of this district says that in AD 966 the Buddhist priest Shoku received spiritual enlightenment from Monju, the God of Wisdom and Intellect. The God also advised Shoku that anyone who climbed Shosha-san would be purified both physically and spiritually. Following this belief Shoshasan became popular and principal Buddhist priests visited in order to be advised by Shoku. Even until today Shosha-san and its major temple Maniden are visited by many pilgrims throughout the year."

The area was beautiful, with moutain paths and walking trails through stunning clearings. From one shady spot, where a set of picnic tables are provided as well as benches for enjoying the sight and a quick snack. You can even take a ropeway up the mountain, which is especially nice after a long lost bike ride there. From Himeji station there are buses that leave for Mt. Shosha pretty regurlarly.

While Shosha-san might be a famous spot for pilgrimages and studying Buddhism, recently it is more famous for being the first place that Ken Wantanabe and Tom Cruise talked in the 2003 blockbuster The Last Samurai. Many of my students have noted this movie as being their favorite film, while others kind of shrug it off.

Plastic Food

2007-06-17T22:06:00.000-07:00

Students often ask me how I can order in Japan. While I can speak and understand a decent amount of food words in Japanese, reading it is near impossible for me. There are just too many Kanji (Chinese characters). But reading a menu in Japan is actually incredibly easy. The reason? Incredibly detailed photographs, and when these are not available, there is a good chance you can find some plastic food models along the outside window of the restaurant.

The creation of plastic food is an art in Japan. In fact, I've heard many art majors from universities will work painting or sculpting the plastic food models as a day job. It's an intricate process beginning with the restaurant providing the factory a real sample from which a cast can be made. Cutting, texturing, painting, and airbrushing help give the food a more authentic look. In Japan, having delicious looking plastic food can really make the difference. There have been many times I've stopped into a restaurant, because the plastic food was too delicious looking to pass up. Likewise, I have skipped over restaurants when hungry because the plastic food was old, the colors not vibrant, and the fake sashimi slices looked dusty. Who can eat dusty sushi?

Life's Simple Pleasures

2007-06-13T18:25:00.000-07:00

When I first arrived in Japan every spare moment I had I felt that I needed to be traveling, or planning out new places to travel to. I succeeded in having traveled to Hiroshima, Kyoto, Tokyo, Okinawa, Nagano, Nara and many more uncommon but just as great cities and prefectures. Currently, I feel that I have seen a good amount of Japan, so my desire to travel isn't as incessant as it was when I first arrived. Don't get me wrong, I still love traveling and plan on seeing more before leaving, but for now I'm content with simpler ways to spend a day or two.

For example, last week my roommate and fellow blogger Emily, and I went on a hike. We hopped onto a local train, and after 10 minutes had reached our destination. After leaving the train station, we walked for 10 minutes to the start of our hiking course.

Our hike was amazingly beautiful, exerting, and occurred in gorgeous weather, everything you could possibly want in a hike. The hike lasted about 6 hours as Emily and I trudged North along the mountain ridges. We scaled rocks and pushed aside tree branches before descending upon a lovely shrine, where we stopped and read and had a snack before turning back.

All in all we had a great day. Our hike wasn't as exciting as a seeing the Golden Pavilion for the first time, or a Tigers game in Koshien Stadium, but it was equally as good in it's own simple way.

Eye Patches and Injuries

2007-06-13T02:35:00.000-07:00

Throughout the months of winter when colds strike leaving people with running noses, many Japanese people resort to wearing masks. In a culture where blowing one's nose is not acceptable behavior, I believe the mask functions to hide one's nose just in case. Despite the prevalence of tissues that are handed out on every major street corner advertising everything from English schools to hostess bars, these tissues are used for dabbing one's nose with or for blowing it in the privacy of the bathroom.

Masks, however, serve an even more vital purpose once spring rolls around. They protect people from painful hay fever allergies. Although not everyone will wear a mask, it is not uncommon to see four or five individuals defending themselves against allergies on one train car. I once saw a young man wearing both a mask and giant headphones which made him look a bit like a spaceman.

In pharmacies, you will not only find hay fever masks, but as I discovered today, all manner of bandages. Last Saturday I got something in my eye, so today I attempted to see the doctor, but after waiting 45 minutes during the lunch break, I spoke to the secretaries only to learn that the clinic only deals with noses, throats, and head problems. Dispiritedly I left, but stopped at the drug store on my way home where I was able to find a giant bottle of eye wash and yes, indeed an eye patch. I'm not sure if I have to guts to wear it out on the street, but if I must, I will feel like I am in one country that will not judge me for it.

Baseball in Japan

2007-06-08T17:26:00.000-07:00

On May 31st, I went to see a baseball game in Koshien Stadium, Lions versus the Tigers. The Tigers are the home team of the area I live in, which is the Kansai area. The Tigers won, and were in the lead throughout the game, so the atmosphere in the stadium was vibrant and carefree. Aside from the great vibes shooting through Koshien, it was interesting watching the differences between a Japanese baseball game and an American baseball game, and there are too many to list here so I'll go over some of the major ones. First off Japanese baseball has cheerleaders, although they reminded me more of dancers. They come out sometimes between innings in white outfits, do a quick cheer, then sprint off the field. At certain points during the game, a white golf-cartesque vehicle will dart out onto the field, drive around for a few minutes, then drive off. I'm not exactly sure of the reason why, but in the land of Hello Kitty and Pokemon, I don't think there needs to be a reason for cute and entertaining. Then there is the matter of cheering. Random cheering is highly frowned upon, as I learned from the looks I received when a friend and I screamed at the top of our lungs, WE LOVE YOU ANDY. Sidenote: Andy is an American player on the Tigers. There is a man whose job it is to lead the cheers, and only when he leads the cheer can you cheer, and when he motions to stop, you must stop. This man stands in the front row, facing the audience, directly across the length of the field from the batter. He wears enormous white gloves that come up to his elbows. When he leads a cheer/chant everyone in his section will follow along, until the cheer makes its way around the stadium. When he crosses his arms into an X, everyone must stop. I've heard that it's difficult for the audience sitting in the section where the man in white gloves stands to pay attention to the game because they have to be watching him, waiting for their cue to chant. My favorite experience with Japanese baseball came in the 7Th inning. At one point pretty much the whole audience blows up balloons in neon yellow, pink, purple, blue and green. Then, before the Tigers go up to bat, everyone releases the balloons into the air. It's really cool to see hundreds of neon balloons simultaneously being released into the black sky!! I love Japanese baseball and can't wait to see the Tigers win yet again!!

A day in Kobe

2007-05-30T19:28:00.000-07:00

Devastated just over 10 years ago by a massive earthquake that took the lives of over 6,000 people, the city of Kobe has been revitalized to become one of Japan's most beautiful cities. To many, the city is now equally famous for its shopping and beef. For a birthday celebration, Sarah and I jumped on a train for 30 minutes to enjoy this fun city.

We began the day at the Kobe City Museum which is hosting an exhibit borrowed from the British Museum. It is a 3D show that reveals the inside of a Mummy. Following the museum route one can also see ancient Egyptian coffins, jewels, and religious artifacts. It was absolutely amazing, and with our handy English notes, we could read about the show and understand most of what we were seeing despite the Japanese announcements describing the history of the mummy. Additionally inside the museum were some permanent exhibits on Kobe's history including a replica of a foreign home from the late 1800's when over 45,000 foreigners lived in this international trading port city.

Another beautiful part of the museum was a collection of childrens' paintings depicting Kobe in the future. Rarely have I ever seen more artistic or creative paintings, especially from children. One showed an underwater Kobe (perhaps an effect of global warming), another showed a city with dragon shaped trains and cars that run like gondolas in the sky. I hope these kids grow up to be artists, architects or inventors.

Later in the day we grabbed lunch at a nice cafe near the city. We had originally planned to dine on Kobe Beef; world famous for its tender morsels, but we realized not being huge red meat eaters it seemed a waste for us to get $26.00 lunch steaks. Instead we opted for the cafe, but much to our surprise they had delectable Kobe beef pastry puff sandwiches. Inside a doughy pastry-like bread, there was a layer of spiced potatoes, walnuts, blueberries, and a small but amazingly tender piece of Kobe beef. It was similar to a meat pie but creatively constructed to be like a sandwich as well. For dessert we split a strawberry shortcake with mouthwatering cream, moist shortcake bread, and fresh strawberries. And all this for the price of one full steak. Although, for meat lovers, Kobe beef is not to be passed up.

We finished the day with some shopping, and rumors are right. Kobe has everything from Louie Vitton to the Gap with Japanese boutiques mixed in. We didn't stay out late but I've also heard that the nightlife in Kobe is well worth a night out, so that will be saved for a future excursion.

Okonomiyaki

2007-05-29T01:41:00.000-07:00

It's possible I've blogged about it before, but if you come to Japan the most important thing to do is eat Okonomiyaki. Unlike sushi, okonomiyaki is not commonly found in Japanese restaurants back home, although I hope it soon makes it's way around the world. I have heard you can find them in Vancuver, however.

Sometimes described as a Japanese-pizza, and other times as a savory pancake, okonomiyaki is a kind of hyprid of both. It is made with flour, eggs, cabbage, and a delcious sauce. Additional possible ingredients include: Noodles- ramen, udon, or yakisoba, squid and octopus, mochi and cheese, or pork and chicken, along with other possibilities and combinations. Typically okonomiyaki is topped with the special sauce, mayonaise, seaweed, and dried fish flakes. Usually anything after the sauce is your's to assemble.

Okonomiyaki is served at special resturants throughout Japan, but is especially famous in Osaka and Hiroshima. My favorite okonomiyaki was eaten in Hiroshima. My friend Tomomi led us to a giant building filled with okonomiyaki restuarants. One floor had about 8 resturants where chefs stood around counters with stools calling out to us to eat their okonomiyaki. We finally choose the busiest table because Tomomi recommended it, and we quickly realized she made an excellent choice. Hiroshimayaki (the special name for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki) has the special touch of being made in layers instead of everything being mixed together. A layer of pancake, topped with cabbage, topped with a fried egg with strips of pork before being finalized with any additional toppings and reconnected for a few flips on the hot iron griddle. Absolutely breathtaking. And in typical Japanese fashion, all of the vendors on the floor thanked us for coming, even though we had skipped over their restaurants.

Making your own okonomiyaki is actually not too difficult. Apparently the sauce can be found in Japanese grocery stores in big cities and everything else can be found at your local grocery store. Well, maybe not squid but the basic necessities. To make your own, check out this recipe. I've tried a few times and it's a satisfying meal despite my sad cooking skills.

Neither Here nor There

2007-05-23T19:31:00.000-07:00

I have been living in Japan for about 9 months now, yet it still doesn't truly feel like home. Whenever I think of home I think of grassy, green meadows, lot's of cows, and white lace curtains fluttering in the breeze from my bedroom window. For the first 6 months or so of my stay in Japan I felt like I was on some sort of semi-permanent vacation. My apartment felt like a temporary spot to crash for an adventure that would soon end. After 6 months a strange feeling started to take hold. I no longer felt like I was on vacation, Japan was where I was living, it wasn't my home, but it wasn't a vacation. A few days ago I visited Awaji Island with some friends. Awaji Island is a small island off mainland Honshu. We hiked, collected sea glass on the beach, and visited an abandoned lighthouse in the middle of nowhere. As were were walking back to catch our ferry it started to drizzle. As we walked along narrow back streets in the dark of night, rain pelting our backpacks, we could see shop signs written in Kanji, and a mother and daughter whizzing past us on their bicycles, holding umbrellas to keep from getting wet. It occurred to me that in the first few months of my time in Japan I would have found this scene very alienating and different from back home, I would have felt like a tourist stumbling through a different world. When this surreal experience actually occurred it felt normal and natural, what I was used to seeing on a daily basis. I didn't feel like a visitor, but I still didn't feel like I was at home. I guess this strange feeling is one I will have to get used to as my days in Japan wind to a close.

History Lessons

2007-05-22T09:32:00.000-07:00

My social studies courses in high school only mentioned Japanese history briefly to discuss WWII. The internment camps in America and the effects of the atomic bombs dropped on Nagasaki and Hiroshima are the only lessons I learned in school about Japan. College history classes obviously go into greater depth, but I never had the opportunity to take a course on Japan. Therefore, one of the most interesting things about living in Japan, is acquiring new history both from students, friends, other English teacher, and researching topics on my own.

Recently my father sent me a link about Chiune Sugihara, a Japanese diplomat who single-handedly saved the lives of thousands of Jewish refugees during WWII by giving them unauthorized visas, even though the Japanese government did not want so many refugees. Descended from Samurai warriors, Sugihara defied convention by marrying a Russian woman, divorcing her, and remarrying. His most defiant act however was to disobey the Japanese government in order to save thousands from the Nazis. For this he lost his career and had difficultly making ends meet in the difficult years after the war. In the late 1960's however, he was found by a man he had saved, and finally given the recognition he deserved. His story was featured on PBS and in the movie Sugihara: Conspiracy of Kindness.

Portion Sizes

2007-05-15T18:24:00.000-07:00

One of the favorite topics for Japanese students learning English is portion sizes in the west (usually America) vs. Japan. Every student who has traveled abroad, has enjoyed that moment when they ordered pasta at a restaurant and the waiter returned with enough food to fill a whole family. I have yet to take home leftovers in Japan.

The easiest place to see this difference is at your local McDonalds. An 'L-size' beverage in Japan usually compares with a small in America. Delicious treats like the fruit and yogurt parfait seem halved in size. However, the hamburgers are unafraid of being massive. The Tamago Double Mac has bacon, two beef patties, a large fried egg and special sauce. Likewise, Japan had briefly adopted the infamous Mega Mac with four beef patties and extra cheese into their McDonald's. According to Wikipedia the portion sizes of regular Bic Macs are about equal in Japan and America, although the Japanese burger is slightly healthier.

After eight months in Japan I have learned that portion sizes may be smaller, but people often eat multiple courses. And with a diet that includes miso soup, rice and fish for the majority of their meals, they can afford to indulge in a Big Mac, McFlurry, fries and a Coke once in a while. I love going to dinner with Japanese friends, because you will usually end up eating multiple courses of absolutely delectable (sometimes unrecognizable) food. However, I do, on occasion, miss having an American sized coffee.

Calligraphy and Kindess

2007-05-14T08:47:00.000-07:00

With many old friends leaving Japan in the next few weeks, I am forced to become aware again of all the things in Japan that I will miss. This week I had an especially touching moment where I fell in love with the generosity and traditions of this ancient country.

I took a Japanese calligraphy class on Sunday with a few friends. Himeji's famous Japanese teacher, Yumi, invited for a free class with her talented, experienced friend Chiaki. Despite this being the first time I had met either woman, both were so kind to me. We each received black ink sticks. Chiaki took our hands and showed us how to grind the stick on the stone slate with water to turn it into liquid. We did this for about twenty minutes while she spoke in Japanese about ink painting traditions. This technique, she told us, is used by monks as a form of meditation. Concentrating on the ink allows your mind to go blank.

She then explained the importance of the bamboo leaves we would draw by telling us the story behind the Tanabata festival. Two lovers, Orihime and Hikoboshi, were so in love that they stopped working hard, so Orihime's father, the God of the Sky or Universe, separated the lovers, only allowing them to meet once a year on the 7th day of the 7th month. They are two stars separated by the Milky Way and on July 7th (sometimes August 7th, depending on the calendar used) they can see each other. On this day, the Japanese celebrate by writing their wishes on paper and hanging them on bamboo.

We listened to the story while we practiced drawing bamboo leaves on paper. Despite Chiaki's kind attempts to show me the way (and the ease with which she drew so simple a shape) I st rugged to create anything other than blobs on paper. She then drew bamboo shoots with sample leaves for us to complete. We inexpertly finished the paintings and signed our names in Katakana. To finish the lesson, Chiaki also gave us a small folding screen made of recycled paper and bamboo leaves, which we also painted on, and a matching pink handkerchief. All of this for free.

In the end, the five of us went to dinner for okonomiyaki, one of my favorite Japanese foods. Yumi and Chiaki ordered for all of us, a common practice when one goes out to dinner with Japanese women for dinner, and one I highly recommend. You will always get a delicious meal with something new to try. We ate four kinds of okonomiyaki and the kind staff also delivered free miso soup and scoops of vanilla ice cream. At the end of the meal, after talking for hours in Japanglish, Japanese and English (with the gifted Yumi simultaneously translating and teaching) the Japanese women ran off to the register. We chased them down as well only to discover that Chiaki, as the eldest at the dinner, had paid for the meal. Our attempts to pay her were only met with thank you's as she scampered away. Yumi explained that this was typical in Japan, and we all fell a little more in love with this country.

Japanese Gyms; A Lesson in Modesty and Rules

2007-05-12T08:02:00.000-07:00

Since moving to Japan in August I have been fairly active; long bike rides, hikes, and occasional runs through Himeji Castle Park have kept me in pretty good shape, or so I thought. After a visit from my parents I was made aware of the fact that, to put it bluntly, my once svelte figure was turning blobesque. After some consideration I decided to join a gym. Now, let me tell you something about gyms in Japan, signing up is a piece of cake, actually using the gym is a different story. Once you are a member, there are a million rules you must follow. Let me guide you through a typical visit to the gym.

Step 1- Give your member card to the staff at the front desk, in return you will receive a plastic card with a number on it.

Step 2- Go to the locker area, where you must remove your shoes before actually stepping into the locker area. Once you have removed your shoes, find a locker and deposit only your shoes it in.

Step 3- Ride the elevator to the third floor where the locker rooms are. Find a locker, slide the card you received at front desk into the slot, and change into your gym clothes. Close the locker, but don't forget to take the key which is attached to a bright orange bracelet. The bracelet can be worn on your wrist or around your ankle.

Step 4- Leave the locker room. Once you have left the room and are in the hallway you may put on your gym shoes.

Step 5- Once you actually make it to the gym, it is highly recommended that you stretch before hitting any of the machines. There is a t.v. facing the stretching mats that continuously plays a video of stretches that you can follow along to.

Step 6- After working out, you complete the whole process again, only in reverse of course.

Aside from an abundance of rules, another factor that separates Japanese gyms from American gyms is gym etiquette. While gym rules are boldly stated in the membership packet you receive when joining the gym, gym etiquette is implied through curious glances or outright horrified stares.

Apparently the gym is a place to workout, not to socialize. Many a time my friends and I would be chatting quietly on the mats or in the weight area and we would get glances, which we read as "quiet down"!! While you are not allowed to wear sneakers on the mats, they must be worn if you intend to use the ab machine in the mat area. Seeing as the ab machine was in the mat area, I figured it would be alright if I used the ab machine with only my socks on as I would soon be going back to the locker room, and as this particular machine only involved me slinging my legs over a bar, so my feet were not actually touching the machine. As soon as I got on the machine a staff member bolted over to me with the alacrity one might expect of someone running to save a child from a burning building, and promptly motioned that I needed to be wearing sneakers, I obeyed, because that is what one does in Japan.

If you would like to take an aerobics or yoga class it is considered very impolite to leave the class mid-lesson as this would be disruptive to your classmates. If you want to use the pool you must remember that goggles are highly recommended. You also must use the practice lane before buckling down to do some laps. If you happen to be talented in in a certain area, or simply want to get a great workout, it is better to humble yourself and slow down, as not to embarrass other gym-goes. Two of my friends have been reprimanded for swimming/running to fast, therefore making others feels bad because they couldn't keep up.
So in conclusions I'm going to stick with my gym membership because aside from the overly structured atmosphere of the gym, it serves it's purpose; to get a good workout.

Bicycles, Bicycles, Bicycles

2007-05-11T09:27:00.000-07:00

After six months in Japan without a bicycle, I have finally joined the majority of the population by acquiring a used gray bicycle. China has long been associated with images of bicycles racing through traffic, but surprisingly bikes are very common in Japan as well. Especially in the country and smaller cities like Himeji.

Sidewalks are wider to allow for bicycles to pass one another alongside meandering citizens. Most people ride at a leisurely pace, but many (including myself) race through the streets. Baskets allow for groceries or shopping bags. Baby seats in back allow for children up to 4 or 5 t o ride behind their mothers.

Although bicycle theft is quite common ( my first bicycle in Nagoya was stolen the week I bought it) bike locks are much easier. Bikes are seldom locked to poles or trees as in the states. Instead with the turn of a key tires are locked in place and bicycles can be parked in massive groups. It's also okay to move a bicycle over to the side in order to fit yours in a space. But it can be dangerous like dominoes on occasion.

Virtue in the Land of the Rising Sun

2007-05-05T07:52:00.000-07:00

Two days ago I popped into my favorite local bakery, Vide France, for a banana black-soybean muffin before work. I plopped my muffin on the counter and opened my purse to grab my wallet and...my wallet wasn't there. I sheepishly apologized to the salesgirl who had rung me up, and slunk out of the bakery hungry and confused. As I walked to work, I convinced myself that my wallet was safe at home, I had probably just left it next to my futon, or on top of my drawers. As soon as I got home from work I thoroughly searched my room, becoming increasingly panicked as my green cube of a wallet with rhinestone decals was NOT turning up. After three hours of denial that my wallet wasn't really missing, after all I hadn't checked behind the fridge yet, I gave up and headed to a "koban" or police box in a quest to retrieve my missing wallet. In my broken Japanese I explained to one of the officer's that my wallet was lost, luckily he spoke a little English and between the two of us we were able to converse. He had me fill out a report and asked me the usual questions about missing items: when was the last time I had seen it, how much yen was in it, etc. After filling out the report I asked "daijobu desuka" meaning is everything OK? The officer nodded then motioned for me to wait. He made a phone call to the Police Headquarters in Himeji, and they informed him that my missing wallet was there!! I thanked him profusely and hightailed it to the Police Headquarters. After another round of "domo arigatos" I had my wallet in my hands, along with the 4,000 yen, or 40 dollars, that hadn't been touched. After my wallet experience I've come to realize that honesty ranks high among one of the many practiced virtues in Japan. Stealing of anything greater than the occasional bike is almost non-existent. This is not the first instance of missing items being reported or left intact. I have heard stories of people leaving their wallets on buses or trains, only to find them in one of the public transportation lost and found centers, or in the exact spot the owner left it, untouched. If I had lost my wallet in America I think the chances are pretty high someone would have stolen my money and credit cards, or just not bothered to turn it in. Before embarking on my Japan adventure I had heard and read that Japan was one of the most honest countries in terms of missing items, especially those of value. After my own personal incident, and first hand accounts of other similar incidents, I have come to believe this statement to be true. Honesty abounds in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Together Again

2007-05-04T01:32:00.000-07:00

After spending two weeks on vacation in Japan and finally seeing Tokyo, Mt. Fuji and other famous places in Japan, I have finally moved down to Himeji with fellow blogger Sarah. I will miss Nagoya with its convenient location and immense size, but I am enjoying Himeji's community vibe, authentic castle, and easily reached, green parks.

Two weeks on the road in Japan with my father visiting has left me a little exhausted but finally feeling like I've seen Japan. It was an amazing trip with a whole range of characters from the super-friendly, helpful and giving to the meanest Japanese person I've met yet. One cranky old taxi driver that pushed my father out of the car to get directions (assuming the two ladies in the car wouldn't know the address) he then yelled at my father for attempting to wear a seatbeat and angrilly demanded that I remove the suitcases from the trunk as quickly as possible. He was certainly an oddity in the land of kind strangers, but he definately made me laught later on. No doubt he will appear in a GoNOMAD article when I write about the quirky experiences on my trip.

Now I am busily adjusting to a new school to teach at, a new city, a new schedule and new friends. I will soon being new gym and Japanese lessons, and finally feel a little stability in my Japanese experience. A whole new part of Japan is open for exploration with my old traveling companion.

Taiyo Park; Where the Pyramids and the Great Wall Meet

2007-04-15T19:26:00.000-07:00

Last week, my roommates and I decided to go for a leisurely bike ride through Northern Himeji. We rode along the mountains where cherry blossom trees were beginning to bloom a muted pinkish-white, a nice contrast from the greenery already covering the mountainside. We were feeling at one with nature and old world Japan as we had just spotted a rather large water rodent ambling lazily along a riverbank, before seeing in the distance a clearing in the valley dotted with traditional Japanese farmhouses. We decided to bike in the direction of the farmhouses. On our way there we were sidetracked by what appeared to be a replica of The Great Wall of China on the mountains to the West of us. Upon closer inspection we found out that we were on the outskirts of Taiyo Park. Taiyo Park is probably one of the strangest, most bizarre, tourist attractions located in Japan. Taiyo Park costs 500 Yen, or 5 U.S. dollars to enter, and is composed of replicas of famous monuments from countries around the world. The statues from Easter Island line the walkway as one first enters the park. Go around the corner and you'll find the Statue of Liberty proudly holding her Torch. After the Statue of Liberty, the roadway widens and white, wrought-iron tables and chairs line either side. Ahead in the distance one can see the Arc de Triomphe, oh look, now we're in Paris!! After going under the famous archway, we climb a hill and are confronted by the Pyramids and two surly looking Sphinx's guarding them. We next come to area that has literally hundreds of stone statues of soldiers, all lined up in perfect rows. Cats crawl amongst their feet, some are chipped with age. I have no idea where in the world these soldiers exist. Our last venture is along the Great Wall of China, which will eventually lead us out of the park. As if there weren't already enough world monuments, the park plans to have a European style castle completed by 2009, along with courtyards and commons. Taiyo Park is quite an experience, more for it's strangeness than anything else!!

M-flo, some J-Pop

2007-04-14T07:21:00.000-07:00

Yesturday I was strolling around Sakae, the downtown shopping district of Nagoya, when I happened across a crowd of people hovering around a building. It looked like the images from the 50's where people huddled around shops with color TV's. However, it was not a TV, but Japanese pop/hip hop group M-Flo doing a radio interview.

The band consists of two members, Japanese Taku Takahashi and Korean-Japanese VERBAL. Verbal caught my eye as I was walking by. He was wearing a big sideways baseball cap, giant sunglasses, and a big blinging necklace. I couldn't understand much of the interview, but the duo charmed the crowd with peace signs and waves for everyone. Everyone was having such a good time, I lingered for a bit doing my best to translate with my limited Japanese and their body language.

It was only after I returned home that I realized how BIG these guys are. I found videos on youtube and even a facebook group! When I told my staff they were jealous. If only I had taken photos, and/or stalked them after the interview for an autograph. That would have been a good story for lessons and quite an exciting experience. Verbal even speaks excellent English after studying Boston so we could have talked about my favorite city. Hopefully I can get a chance to see them in concert. Perhaps this is a good opportunity to study up on other Japanese bands, so I can be prepared for my next glimpse of celebrity. To check out their songs click here!

Gaijin

2007-04-09T05:54:00.000-07:00

There is a debate occurring in Japan amongst foreign workers and this revolves around the word Gaijin, a shortened form of a word which translates to foreigner, but extends beyond nationality to include ethnicity as well. A poll for Japan Today found that almost half of people find the term derogatory or racist.

Living in Japan can be quite an experience for those from very diverse cultures. Overnight, outside of the major tourist locations, one becomes very noticeable. The best part about this is the children. I have had a few approach me and say hello while bowing, but most just stare wide-eyed while their moms smile and encourage them to speak some English. Sometimes drunken men will shout out their only English if you pass them on the street at night. "Helllllooooo! Helllllooooo!" Usually if you give a short 'hello' back they will continue on their way. Although sometimes they can fall under the impression that as a gaijin there is a chance that perhaps you are also a prostitute. At these times it is best to say "I"m sorry, you are mistaken" in Japanese, according to my Japanese friend.

Although I have used the term Gaijin frequently when talking to my language-teacher friends about ourselves, I've only heard it from Japanese people twice. When I lost my monthly train pass the ticket man called another station to ask if they had seen it. He looked quickly at the name I'd written on the sheet and instead used "Gaijin-san," as it was much easier. Another time a child in a small town saw me walking by and turned to his mother with wide eyes and whispered loudly, "Gaijin da!" There's A Foreigner!

It seems that for those only in Japan for a short time, the term is amusing or mildly irritating, but increases in offense with the length of one's stay and the extent of one's involvement in the Japanese community. Furthermore, there seems to be a hierarchy of foreigners in Japan, with English-teachers being somewhere near the top and Chinese or Brazilians living in Japan experiencing a greater degree of racism. I've had lessons where students unabashedly blame the increased crime rates on foreigners.

Japan is also a country that is extremely welcoming as well. English is almost everywhere and most people are more than pleased to use any English they remember if they can help you. People are so kind, inviting and excited to share their culture with you and to learn more about your culture.

Tokyo; A City that Dispels the Stereotypes

2007-03-28T16:47:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago a friend and I took a four-day trip to Tokyo. Tokyo wasn't necessarily a city I wanted to visit because I prefer the mountains and the beaches to skyscrapers and department stores, but I figured I couldn't leave Japan without visiting one of the most famous cities in the world.
Before visiting Tokyo I had heard many negative stereotypes about the city, for example that it was loud, very crowded, and filled with unfriendly people that had been hardened by years of living in such a busy environment. When I actually stepped out of the train station and onto one of Tokyo's main streets I could see right away that many of the stereotypes I had heard would be proven wrong. The street was huge, bigger than any of the other city streets I had encountered in Japan, and the buildings dotting the street were made of glass and brick as well as concrete. In Japan it's not uncommon to find cities composed mostly of concrete, so it was refreshing to see a city that used many different materials for it's buildings.
Once we arrived in Tokyo we were constantly on the go. We explored Akihabara which is the tech capital of Tokyo. Street after street is lined with glowing electronic stores, and maid cafe's. Akihabara is where you go if you want to buy a robot, indulge in anime videos or comic books, or get served your food by a woman dressed in a revealing maid's outfit.
We explored the garden's of Tokyo's Imperial Palace, where the Japanese Emperor and his family live. We visited Tokyo's National Museum in Ueno Park, where we spotted some of the first cherry blossom trees in bloom for this season. We also woke up at 4:30 in the morning to attend a fish market, where fish is brought in from all over Japan and stores and businesses bid on the freshest catch of the day. At night we walked along the city streets which were throbbing with people and a kind of electric energy that seemed to reverberate off buildings and hang in the air.
The stereotype that Tokyo's citizens are cold and unfriendly also turned out be very, very wrong. On our last day in Tokyo, Kim and I decided to head to Ginza, one of Tokyo's wealthiest area's that houses such stores as Armani and Louis Vuitton, and check out the art galleries. We were expecting the art galleries to be filled with wealthy customers and snobby owners who wouldn't give us the time of day. We were completely proven wrong! We walked into a tiny gallery where a woman showcased her paintings from her travels in Spain and France. The gallery owner and the artist were friends, two sweet sixty-something year olds who both hold a love of art and travel. The women didn't speak much English, and Kim and I don't speak much Japanese, but between the four of us we managed to carry on a pretty long conversation, albeit a few pauses. After talking with the women for a while, they generously went out and brought back lunch for us!!! We munched on sushi, green tea, and Japanese sweets for about an hour before we thanked the women and headed to the train station to make our way back to Himeji.
Overall I had a great time in Tokyo, I loved the city, I found the crowds to be not nearly as overwhelming as I expected, I met some great people, and I came away with every rumor and stereotype I had heard about the city dispelled!!