Vending Machines

Technologically advanced Japan has improved even the vending machine. You can find just about any beverage waiting for you for around 130 Yen. Best yet, hot drinks are available. Tea, cocoa, coffee and my personal favorite Hot Vitamin. (a strange mix of vitamins with a hot lemony flavor). Drinking this on cold nights both warms me and provides my immune system a boost.

There are seemingly endless varieties of coffee drinks for the fairly common twelve hour work day. Tommy Lee Jones is the famous icon for Boss. But the best by far is simply labelled Depresso! A good choice when you need energy.

In additon to tradtional vending machines, Japan offers all sorts of items through machines. Cigarettes, beer and chu-hi (a Japanese alchohol - usually fruity flavored) can all be found in machines along streets. It is also perfectly legal to drink alchohol on the street or more commonly, on the train. Train stations often offer vending machines for ramen shops. You can pick one, print the receipt and take it to the counter where they will make you a fresh bowl. Often corn soup is mixed in with water and tea in the normal vending machines. The only thing not typically found in Japanese vending machines is candy bars and so much the better.

Himeji Castle

I live in Himeji, which happens to be the home of the most famous castles in Japan, Himeji Castle, one of the only two Japanese castles that didn't get ruined during WWII. Himeji Castle looms over the Himeji and can be seen from many points in the city. The building of the castle began in the 14th century and was completed in 1609. The castle is supposedly the most beautiful in cherry blossom season which is in the spring, but I think it's beautiful at any time of the year. In the fall it's surrounded by red and orange leaves, and in the winter the castle stands out against the barren sky. The castle also has adjoining gardens that you can tour. With bonsai trees, stone walkways over narrow streams, and moss covered stones; it fits the picture of a traditional Japanese garden. Inside the castle, you can read about the history of the castle, including interesting facts such as the defense mechanisms that were used to protect the castle!! It's well worth the visit!

Bunraku Theatre

Last week, a friend and I saw a performance of Ninin Kamuro (Two Apprentice Geisha) and Komochi Yamamba (The Pregnant Mountain Ogress) at Bunraku Theatre in Osaka. Bunraku Theatre is a traditional form of Japanese Theatre in which puppets are used to play the roles of commoners that lived in Japan 200-300 years ago. Most of the plays were written in the 18th century. Bunraku Theatre does not solely feature puppets though. It takes three manipulators to handle one puppet!! There is also a joruru, reciter, who tells the audience the story as the puppets acts it out, and the shamisen player, who plays the shamisen in accompaniment to the joruru's story.
I had a great time!! The puppets costumes are so vibrant that I had no trouble distinguishing the colors, even from the very back of the auditorium where my seat was. The story lines are easy to follow, and there's a lot of dancing and singing to keep things lively. I was able to rent an English earphone guide, so that I could enjoy not only the sights and music of Bunraku, but also appreciate the story!! I was glad that I got to experience a form of traditional Japanese culture!!

Grab Bags!

One of the top trends in Japan after each new year is the sale of grab bags known in Japanese as fukubukuro or "lucky bags." Almost every major store sells some version of these bags. Goods are sold sealed in bags. Shoppers than purchase the mystery items and discover what's inside after arriving home.


I remember similar traditions at fairs in America. Sandwiched between the curly fries and the balloon-popping prize stand there would be a little booth selling grab bags marked for girls or boys. Usually these cost under $5.oo and included candy, cheap jewelry, prize tickets, food coupons, or stuffed animals. I found them infinitely wonderful at 10 years old and I must say the adult version in Japan appeals to my childish delight in surprising and lucky finds. It always reminds me of Charlie opening the last chocolate Wonka bar he can afford to discover a golden ticket.


Fukubukuro in Japan vary from store to store. In this photo, the bag contains various types of fragrances: incense, essential oils, bath salts, candles, etc. However, the amount, the style, and the scents are unknown to the purchaser. At the posh department stores in Japan, the bags can be filled with anything from clothing to home goods to make-up. Amazingly enough, women (these are mostly marketed toward women I believe) spent up to 30,000 yen (about $260 USD) on bags. Apparently it is quite common to find items worth triple their value inside, but the risk involved is what i consider shopping-gambling! One gamble I do consider worthwhile for sure is the confectionery store grab bag. A mystery bag of sweets is just what I consider a win-win situation.

Fortunes, Prayers, and Wishes

Shinto shrines are found everywhere in Japan. As the famous Kyoto tourguide Johnny Hillwalker explained, "Buddhism is for death, everything else is for Shinto in Japan." Thus the important ceremonies and occasions in life rely upon visits to shrines. Everything from good grades to healthy babies can be prayer for at Shinto shrines.

Each shrine has a head spirit or Kami. This spirit will listen to prayers and generally has an area of expertise. So some shrines are for intelligence or "a good head" as the Japanese often explain. Other shrines are specifically for women to pray for children. There are shrines for health, for love, for children, and for a good many other things.

Most shrines sell a good few items. Ema boards (pictured) are usually a few hundred yen and quite popular. Prayers are written on the wooden board and then hung at the shrine. At popular shrines, it is common to find many lanuages written. One English board in this picture says, "Please help me to find and accept my path." A little unsual. Most wish for health for family and friends.

Another popular item is omikuji or New Year's Fortunes. There are twelve levels of fortunes. The best is dai-kichi, 大吉. There are five levels of bad fortunes and these are generally left to hang on branches at the shrine in hopes that the bad fortune will not follow you throughout the year. This year I paid 200 yen and recieved dai-kichi. Thus, as my friend Tomo translated, all my dreams will come true, I can easily get pregnant if I want, if I study I will learn well, and if I am not so selfish I will get a boyfriend. Some of these blessings will not be so useful this year but hopefully that means I will finally learn some solid japanese, I will travel to many beautiful places and I will be able to save money.

Sushi

Sushi - what brings many foreigners to Japan. It is worth a trip. Raw fish, vinegar rice, and seaweed. Sashimi- slices of raw fish - dipped in soy sauce and wasabi. Every bite reminds me why I love Japan.

At some restaurants, sushi can be quite expensive. In grocery stores, sushi is fairly cheap. However, it comes with a variety of sushi which may or may not be desireable. I generally am not a fan of squid or shellfish. These can be more chewy than I like. I enjoy my salmon, my tuna, my yellowtail, and other melt-in-your-mouth fish. But I love octopus - it looks like octopus- purply tentacles.

The best places to go for sushi if you don't want to spend a ton of money are conveyer belt sushi spots. Here, fresh sushi spins around on a carousel. Color-coordinated plates relate to prices. So a blue plate might cost $1. At some stores everything is $1. (100 Yen). Plates generally supply two pieces of sushi. Compared to prices back home this is a bargain. What comes around the belt is often random but it is easy to request anything. The best of these have a chef within view to whom you can easily shout an order. Menus often have pictures and/or English. Sometimes the fun is to eat whatever comes around that looks appealing. Green tea, water, wasabi, ginger and soy sauce are all available in front of your stool. Best part - every now and then cake will make an appearance on the converyer belt for a delcious ending to the meal. With a swipe of the plates on an electice machine a waitress can tally your meal in seconds. It is oh so satisfying to eat a giant sushi dinner out for only $10.

Izakayas

The best places to go for a cheap drink and some small snacks in Japan are izakayas. Everything from chicken cartilidge to sashimi and pizza to ice cream can be enjoyed in intimate corners of these sit-down bars. Some come to get drunk with coworkers after a long day while others simply come for meals with friends.

Traditionally they serve customers some small snacks when they arrive. Edamame, soybean pods is a common choice, as are pickled vegetables of all sorts. While most often these are free, I have been charged in the past for the sampling when my party did not order any food. Beverage options include: Beer, Wine, Sake, and various hard alcohol and soft drinks. One of my favorites and a worthwhile drink to try on a trip to Japan is cassis-orange. This fruity drink is neither too sweet nor sour. It is perfectly refreshing.

There are now many chain izakayas in Japan. I have eaten at many both independently owned and chain. My favorite is Yamachan. Known by the drawing of a man with chicken wings that marks each restaurant, Yamachan serves a delicous variety of food. In Nagoya, it is most famous for its tabesake, or fried chicken wings. These special Nagoyan food are coated in a peppery-cinnamon spice. Beware while you eat them though, I have recieved instructions from the staff on one occasion about the proper way to consume these wings which involves a lot of gnawing and sucking on bones. Needless to say I thanked them polietly and ate the wing the only way I've ever wanted to. While I have mastered chopsticks, I can't quite change the way I eat finger food.

Japanese Toilets

Japanese toilets can take a little getting used to. There are many kinds and many features. My apartment comes with a "western-style" toilet. These are very common in Japan, and most large public bathrooms will have a few. In most homes there is one room for toilets and another for sinks, baths, and showers. This, I think, is an ingenious design that prevents someone from having to wait forever to use the bathroom while someone is in the shower. Likewise, since shoes are left at the entrance of Japanese homes, oftentimes plastic bathroom slippers are provdied in the toilet. At Ryokans, traditional Japanese inns, and frequently at izakayas, Japanese restaurant/bars, slippers are also provided for the bathrooms.

The actual toilets themselves can take some getting used to. Many public bathrooms will also contain "Japanese-style" or "Asian-style" toilets. These look similar to urinals, but lay flat on the ground. One uses them by facing the wall, lowering ones pants to the knee and squating. They can be used for any bathroom need. Many foreigners struggle with them at first, and even some of my Japanese friends prefer to avoid them. Some people even remove there pants entirely rather than risk having an accident.

Perhaps even more exciting than differnt styles of toilets, Japanese toilets often have four or five buttons. After four months in Japan, I am still ignorant of all their functions. One button, labeled with a music note, creates a flushing sound when pushed to cover any embarrassing bathroom noises, which for many Japanese women, is any bathroom noise. The others mostly relate to the integrated bidet, which both sprays clean water and blow dries, right from the toilet. Travelers beware, the shock of pressing a strange button and suddenly feeling a jet of water can lead to jumping and soaked pants. My favorite feature of Japanese toilets is especially useful in the coldest nights in winter. Modern toilets mostly come with a heated seat now. In Japan, even toilets are high-tech.

Learning Japanese

After two weeks in Mexico, my Spanish improved noticeably. After four months in Japan, my Japanese is humiliating. I can only form short sentences, and most of my utterances I learned from the kids in my English classes. While I have studied on my own, as an English teacher living with other English speakers, I have little opportunity to practice waht I study. Beyond eating out and Japanese friends with excellent English, I barely use the words I learn. While Mexico was a language immersion opportunity where Spanish was almost all I could speak, living in Japan, English has remained my number one language for communication.

There are three writing systems in Japan. Originally, written language came from China with the arrival of kanji. There are the symbols we all recognize from tatoos across America. They are often very beautiful and can symbolize a sound, a word, and a meaning. From kanji, both hiragana (pictured) and katakana were derived. Katakana is the written language reserved for foreign words. English words that have been adopted by Japan always appear in katakana. All Japanese can also be written in romanji as well. And while learning hiragana has helped my pronunciation, being illiterate in kanji prevents me from reading much.

However, while I have learned slowly so far, Japan is an amazing country for providing Japanese lessons. In Nagoya there are a great many schools that teach Japanese for incredibly cheap prices. For a few dollars a lesson you can study with a class. For the equivalent of $30 you can get a private lesson for two hours. Even better perhaps, the large number of Japanese students learning English are another great resource. Most cities have a center where they can post messages to search for language exchange buddies. My goal for 2007 is to finally get to work and learn the language. Or at least increase my vocabulary beyond food related topics. Watashi wa sushi o suki desu. (I like sushi - at least I hope that's what it says...)

Inuyama Castle

In America, I could never imagine looking at a castle, any castle, and not feeling overly impressed. However, in Japan, castles are fairly commonplace. It seems wherever you go there is a castle within a hour's drive. Living in Nagoya there are at least four castles close by, but Inuyama castle would be worth a visit even if it were farther away.

Nagoya castle was nearly demolished during World War II when air raids caused extensive fires in the city. Thus, most of the castle was truly built in 1959 rather than the original Edo creation. In constrast, Inuyama castle maintains the oldest original castle tower in Japan. The interior is authentic and really gives an impression of the lives of samurai and their warriors in the Edo period.

Constructed in 1537, Inuyama castle is located on a small hill above the city of Inuyama where the Kiso river flows below. The views from the castle are breathtaking. Japan's misty mountains surround the city of Inuyama. One can see ancient and modern Japan connect. In summer, it is possible to see comorant fishing from the balcony of Inuyama castle. Fisherman in this city still take comorant birds out to catch fish and light fires. Lucky tourists can catch a ride on a boat and watch the action from the river.

The history of Inuyama castle is equally interesting. It was controlled by the Naruse lords during the fuedal period, and after some power struggles, is now the only privately owned castle in Japan as it now belongs to the Naruse family. Inside you can see Samurai armor, swords, ancient pottery, and photographs of other castles in Japan. None of these additions distract from the history of the building however, and the austerity of the castle allows visitors to feel a greater connection with the past.

Hot Springs

This vacation marked my first trip to a Japanese hot spring. Known in Japan as onsens, these are immensely popular throughout the country. They are relaxation centers for the overworked and overstressed. Some are in cities, while others can be in the mountains overlooking the ocean.

Entering the onsen is immediately soothing. My friends and I slip off our shoes and place them in lockers. Inside families and friends sit around long tables sipping tea and eating snacks. Beauty products and expensive lotions are on sale. There is a vending machine to buy tickets. We choose a day pass and procede to the front desk. They give us a locker room key in exchange for our ticket and shoe key.

Upstairs in the locker room, we slip off our clothes and only have the small handclothes we brought with us for cover. Younger women hold these over their bodies modestly; older women are more accustomed to the onsen culture and are not shy at all. The hot springs are segregated by gender at this onsen, as in most. After entering the locker room, we will see no men until we retrieve our keys at the front desk.

The next step is the shower. There are small booths along the walls where we shower. Shampoo and body wash are provided, but many bring their own supplies. After that we are free to slip into the baths. Most onsens have indoor and outdoor baths, and this one is no exception. Inside there is a hot tub with a variety of jet styles. Next to this there is also a milk bath. I soak in these while we all assemble before we move onto the natural springs. The water here is so hot most of us prefer to sit rather than lie in the water. There are many tubs outside. Two mineral springs; one piping hot and one larger one, where the women do a lot of talking. There are hot water baths with no pure water. There is a collegen bath, and there is a place to lay down while the hot water runs below you, keeping you warm enough, but allowing you to cool off from the steaming baths. This is my favorite spot.

We soak for an exceptional long a and a half hours. After we finish, I stand up to fast and climb into my winter clothes again. It is a rush. Sometimes people will pass out at this point, so I take a long break to sit down and relax with a large bottle of gatorade. But the best part comes when we go downstairs and have some delicious ice cream cones. Yet, sleeping in the car on the way home was what finally made me understand the popularity of the onsens. They are relaxing indeed.

SMAP SMAP

In the world of Japanese Pop Music nothing beats SMAP. For over a decade these guys have been some of the most popular people in Japan. Not only do they have pop hits, but they have all starred in tv dramas and their own variety show SMAPxSMAP. Individually they have done much more, from stage acting, to movies and commercials.

New Year's Eve was my first time seeing SMAP perfom. One SMAP hosted the famous New Year's singing competition show, and SMAP was the only band to perform twice. Instantly, I could see why this band has managed to stay so popular in Japan. Their songs are catchy. "Arigato" a major hit for the group, played in my head 100 times after listening to their performance. And this is with me only knowing one word! After that I could only thank people in song.

The next day I watched SMAPxSMAP. It was a special two hour program. They did sketch comedy, cooking, and, of course, some singing and dancing. Most of my students are dedicated to this show and this group. Kimutaku, the nickname for the SMAP in the front right, is often voted the Sexist man in Japan. Knowing this trivia has helped me in English lessons. If students can't understand a word, I will say for example:

Famous: "Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt, Kimutaku"

Pop Band: "Smap."

Catchy: "Smap music"

and so on and so forth. It seems the best way to communicate anywhwere is to learn about another culture. The more you know the easier it is to define things or to give examples. To watch a SMAP video check out: Arigato