The Hounen Fertility Festival

Today I went to one of the most famous festivals in Japan. Each year over 100,000 visitors from all over the world attend. (It is in fact, the largest number of foreigners I have seen in one place since arriving in Japan). From day one in Nagoya, I've been hearing about the famous male fertility festival better known to English teachers as "the penis festival." After watching the events today, I would have to say that the title is aptly given.

Located in Komaki City in Aichi Prefecture, this festival is held annually on March 15th at the Tagata Jinja Shinto shrine. The true English translation might be closer to the "Bumper Harvest Festival." It is a dedication to a god "Mitoshi-no-Kami" and a goddess, "Tamahime-no-Mikoto." The belief is that good crops will come from mother earth being impregnated by father heaven. Thus there is a celebration of male fertility.

A mikoshi (portable shrine) is carried by villagers on their shoulders from one shrine to another. On top of the mikoshi is an owasegeta (penis) measuring 60cm(24") across and 2m(80") long. The villagers carry it shouting and occasionally spin it around in a circle. Free sake is handed out in its path to lucky revelers. The owasegeta is offered to Tagata Jinja shrine for world peace, the growth of all things, and a bumper crop. Women follow in the procession carrying miniature owasegeta and it is good luck to rub them. An old lady commanded me to before shoving herself to the front of the crowd for her own lucky rub of the wooden phallus.

For continued good luck, fertility, and protection at home, one can collect fabric from the Shinto branches that follow the owasegeta in the procession. The old ladies love these luck pieces and go so far as to chase them as fast as they can. Additionally, you can purchase cell phone charms, sake pitchers and other assorted goods shaped like male genitalia. Not to be left out, female genitalia-shaped ashtrays are sold alongside. For snacks, visitors can visit any number of booths selling fried goods and sweets, just like fairs back home. There is more fried octopus than at home, but also lots of chicken skewers, wieners and crepes. The best, and given the festival, most appropriate snack, was the chocolate covered bananas. Eating them here though, might grab you some unwanted attention.

However, the best part of this festival comes at the end, where everyone crowds into a square to have mochi (pounded rice cake balls) thrown at them. It is a dangerous and thrilling event. The banister is crowded with lucky individuals who have been given the privilege of hurling hard mochi into the crowd. The shots come in volleys and chaos ensues. There is a lot of shoving, pushing, ducking and scrambling. Last year one poor teacher came to school the next day with a broken nose. I walked away with two very bruised toes as a result of some enthusiastic leaping from a neighboring participant, but unfortunately, no delicious mochi. The clever people positioned themselves well to collect mochi that bounced off other hands or searched the grounds for dropped samples. One man finished with a hat full of mochi collected by his two sons despite warnings at the beginning of the ceremony that it is best if the young and the elderly step aside. It is a wise warning as the whole process was as dangerous as a mosh pit at a rock concert. For a visitor to Japan, this might just be the most fun you can have at a festival.