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Croatia's Istrian Peninsula: Full of Flavor
How does exploring a land of seaside resorts, hilltop villages and great cuisine hit you? It is very possible to do and at a cost around 30% less than the west coast of Italy.
Be it wine road, olive oil farms or enjoying white truffles, Istria’s pleasures are satisfying. History blends with chic and mild Mediterranean weather merges in an unforgettable mix. In Istria you can move at your own pace with your own agenda and every day is different. What more could a traveler ask for?
Behind the city are the foothills of Mt. Ucka that provide some great hiking trails. The hike to the top of the mountain takes about three hours and the view is superb. Nearby small fishing villages such as Lovran also make for great exploring. As would be expected from its location Opatija offers all water sports, and seafood is the feature on the menu of many of the restaurants that line the main boulevard. Some stand out dishes I sampled were scampi “na buzaru” and cod filled stew. Truffeling Along
The Restaurant Zigante Tartufi located in the small town of Livade is one fantastic experience. Most of the menu consists of unbeatable quality with white truffles included in most dishes. Some examples are Baby Beef Tagliata with Truffles and Fish Capriccio with Truffles. The bonus of a great meal was sitting on a hillside nearby the fortified town of Motovun. Motovun dates from the 14th century and was built by the Venetians, as much of Istria was. Below the town are vineyards and olive oil farms. Quaint doesn’t even begin its description. This is also an area where staying on a rural farm Agroturizam style is a suitable option. Farm Living Peaceful just doesn’t cover the night visiting the Toncic Farm and its surroundings. The mountains and hilltop villages provide an unforgettable background for the sinking sun. Istria is pushing this style of tourism big time and all farms are strictly monitored. Most of the food is straight from where you are staying. The olive oil comes from nearby and the wine is local.
After a dinner, sitting with other guests by the huge stone fireplace was a sure cure for stress. Conversation grew as terracotta pitchers of Istrian “Supa” were passed around. Supa is a concoction of red wine, olive oil, sugar, pepper and roasted bread. Sounds bizarre but has worked its magic for centuries. Heading out to the Sea The pull of the coast in Istria is powerful and constant. Norvigrad is just one of the classic beauties that beguiled on contact. The town started as a Greek colony, then a Roman colony, and ended up with a Venetian style.
While there are many resorts outside of town, I would rather stay centrally and the Hotel Neptun is perfect; harborside cafes and restaurants provide an excellent way to get comfortable! Ferries ply the waters from Venice so a day trip there is possible. Keep in mind that in return many Italians use that same ferry in peak season, so book ahead. Top Pick
Just the facts: If traveling to Istria in the months of July and August, try to get advance reservations for lodgings. The choice runs from camping to large resort. Villa rentals are also plentiful and offer some good deals off-season. The Istrian Tourism board maintains an excellent site for checking your options at istra.com I would be remiss to not have a link to one very special restaurant, Truffle heaven Zigantte - zigantetartufi.com
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