GoNOMAD DESTINATION MINI GUIDE:

Little Havana, Miami

By Monk Media

WHY GO

It's the next best thing to sneaking into Cuba. Practice your Spanish, drink café con leche, buy Santeria candles and view quirky architecture painted tropical colors. It's a lively urban scene, by day or night.

WHEN TO GO?

Unless you want to melt to the sidewalk, visit when the sun is low on the horizon -- November through April -- when it's generally sunny, in the 70's or 80's. This allows you to avoid the rainy hurricane season.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

Fly into Miami airport. Rent a car, or take a cab. Little Havana basically runs down SW 8th Street ("Calle Ocho") between 12th and 17th Avenues, south and west of downtown.

The more adventurous can get the number 5 bus from Miami center, or take the Metro Rail to the Brickell Station and catch a connecting bus. Helpful hint: avenues run north to south, streets from east to west.


BEST ATTRACTIONS

Little Havana is becoming a magnet for the young, the hip, the artistic. The last Friday evening of every month is "Viernes Culturales," with three venues of open artist studios, and a shuttle bus between the sites. The restaurants along Calle Ocho are all hopping, with music spilling onto the street. An outdoor, live music stage can be found next to the recently renovated, local landmark, Tower Theater (where first run films have Spanish subtitles).

The first Saturday of every month is "Surreal Saturday" at the experimental performance arena, Space 742 (Tel: 305-643-6611). From seven till midnight there are four featured performances of music, dance, theater and poetry inside, and a DJ artist scratching tunes outside. Just short of bliss when the moon is full.

MOST UNUSUAL ATTRACTION

The (former) home of Elian Gonzales (2319 NW 2nd Street), is a ten minute walk from the center of Little Havana. The house is no longer occupied by the Gonzalez family, but the area in front of the house and along its fence is an evolving and improvised shrine to the young Cuban boy.

Along the way, make sure to check out the towering, inflated bright yellow sculpture at Happy Face Auto Sales at NW 22nd Ave.


BEST ACTIVITIES

Flamenco Nights (Tuesdays and Thursdays) at Casa Panza. Located smack dab in the center of things, on Calle Ocho at 16th Avenue (Tel: 305-643-5343). Dancing, guitars, mojitos and more. Officially starts at 8:30 PM, but really heats up later.

BEST LODGINGS

• The Miami River Inn
  Tel: 305-325-0045
  A gated oasis, a short drive east on Calle Ocho toward downtown Miami. A series of four renovated historic houses, with gardens and a swimming pool, sit nestled on the west side of the Miami River. You get a glimpse of the water from some of the third floor rooms.  It's like a little piece of Key West in the city.

Check our listings for budget hotels in Miami

BEST EATS

• For authentic Cuban eats at peasant prices, go to El Esquito at Calle Ocho and 15th Avenue (next to the Tower Theater). Try Arroz con Pollo with Frijoles Negros, and wash it all down with a cortadito.  (That's rice and chicken with black beans, and espresso with a touch of milk.) Que Rico! 

• Another excellent bargain for the discriminating palate is El Atlacatl, at SW 17th Ave, serving foods of El Salvador. Not to be missed are the pupusas -- cornmeal pancakes filled with cheese, served with a side of pickled cabbage and a piquant red salsa. There's a different soup featured each day of the week. If you're lucky enough to catch the shellfish soup, it's an extra special treat.

OTHER IMPORTANT THINGS

Consider a detour north to Little Haiti.

BEST RESOURCES

greatermiami.com

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