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Marveling
in Myanmar I'm standing barefoot in the temple complex of Shwedagon, Myanmars (Burma) most mesmerizing sight. And I'm going through film at a great rate, because in a lifetime of exotic travel, I've never seen anything like this.
All around me are astonishing pagodas in different shapes --
some edged in gold, some covered in glittering mirror mosaic -- and at
the center, a magnificent stupa covered in gold and tipped with
diamonds. Everywhere, Burmese are worshipping or strolling gracefully
by; the air is scented with incense. It's a dazzling scene, and one worth
savoring and we're determined to soak it all in. On our second morning, we discover what will turn out to be our other favorite spot in Yangon -- the huge Scott Market (Bogyoke Aung San Market). Immediately, we're shopping madly: Burmese handicrafts are unique and the prices are all bargains. Most fascinating are the mysterious items at the stalls where the Burmese are shopping: my favorite is the tiny booth glittering with green foil headdresses, which are used as temple offerings. Hours later, we're dragging our purchases out the door, giddy with success. Back at the hotel, we spread out our loot for a second look: sequin tapestries and pillowcases, gilded marionettes, wood carvings, a painting, a blouse in local style and some local skirts (the ubiquitous longyi, worn by both men and women). Then it's time to fly to Bagan -- a little-known archaeological
gem that dates from around the turn of the last millennium (850
1300 AD). Over 2000 pagodas crowd an arid plain of only 42 square kilometers
that was the ancient capital of Myanmar. We spend the day exploring the
temples, barefoot over the rough stones -- shoes must be removed in all
Burmese temples. The ubiquitous horse-and-buggies are a wonderful way
to get around the sights. Near sunset, our guide takes us to one of the
sunset temples. I gingerly climb the steep narrow steps to the top; my
reward is a vista of ancient temples turning rosy in the sunset. After taking in the sights of Mandalay -- a carved teak monastery,
dazzling main temple, view from Mandalay Hill -- we head to the food market
to get a glimpse of real life. Here we're the only tourists. Drinking
fresh coconut milk, we stop at every pile of vegetables and fruit, quizzing
the merchant and our guide about the unusual produce. Gena Reisner
is a writer living in New York City. Copyright 2000. Gena Reisner. All rights reserved.
Editor's Notes about Myanmar Plane Overland It's also possible to travel throughout the country by train. Myanmar
has a large rail network and Myanmar Railways operates many lines of which
Yangon-Mandalay is the main with many trunk lines. Special counters are
opened for tourists at Yangon, Thazi and Mandalay stations. The main attractions are on the Yangon-Bagan-Mandalay-Inle Lake
route.There are several side trips from the major sights that are accessible
and worth seeing. There are also a few beach towns that can be visited.
But bear in mind that just about anything else is severely restricted,
and very difficult to get to. LODGINGS In addition to the Pagoda Festivals, fun fairs held for each pagoda
around the country, there are many other important religious holidays
and festivals throughout the year. Thingyan Water Festival--April The Kason Festival--May The Waso Festival--July Thadingyut Festival (Festival of Lights)--October Kynuk-se in Upper Myanmar, situated some 26 miles to the south of Mandalay,
is noted for the elephant dance which is performed at this festival. But
the elephant dance has become one of the highlights in many auspicious
celebrations throughout the country. Phaungdaw Oo Pagoda Festival--October Tazaungdaing Festivalmid-November Shopping is fabulous and cheap. Bargaining is customary. Scotts
Market in Yangon is a treasure trove. Buy lacquerware in Bagan,
sequin tapestries in Mandalay, local crafts like hand-woven shoulder
bags at the 5-day markets in the Inle Lake region. Rubies
are plentiful and inexpensive; buy them at licensed stores only. Several local markets offer imported goods, as well, but they are somewhat
expensive, by It's best to travel during the dry season, November through February. The usual Southeast Asia health precautions apply, including the need
for a malaria prophylactic. See cdc.gov/travel/index.htm.
Do not drink or brush your teeth with the water; cheap, clean bottled
water is available everywhere and is generally supplied in hotel rooms.
Eat only fully-cooked meals or pealed fruits and vegetables. Bring along
medicine to treat digestive upsets. VISAS AND OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS All travelers need a visa to enter Myanmar, which is valid for
a 28-day stay and costs $18. If you're not traveling with a tour operator, your visa is good for entry
for one month after issue. You can get a visa in Bangkok, if you are planning to travel elsewhere
in Southeast Asia before arriving in Myanmar. With a Border Pass, you can enter overland from Yunnan, China,
and can enter Lwage, Namhkan, Muse, Kyukokand Kun-lone. Organised groups
can travel up to Yangon via Lashio and Mandalay. These change frequently,
so do your homework before you go. On the Myanmar-Thai border, tourists with Border Passes can enter from
Mae Sai (Thailand) and travel to Kyaing Tong. From Kyaing Tong,
organised groups can go to Sipxhaungbana (Yunnan) via Mai-Lar. Day Return Cross-border traffic is also allowed at Ayeyawaddy, Three-Pagoda
Pass and Kawthaung. Since these entry requirements are subject to change, be sure to obtain
the most up-to-date information by calling the Embassy of the Union
of Myanmar, or the Permanent Mission of Myanmar to the U.N.
(See Resources) All independent travelers are obligated to exchange $200 into FECs
(Foreign Exchange Certificates) upon entry, either in the form
of cash, travelers checks or credit card. Hotel bills and airplane/train tickets
must be settled in FECs; you can also use credit cards and travelers checks
in major hotels in Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan. The local currency, the kyat (pronounced "chat"), is exchanged
on the black-market only (Its illegal to exchange dollars, but not
FECs) and is useful if you are not staying in "approved" accommodations.
If you are using FECs, you can often get a better rate on the black market,
too. You will be required to pay a US $10 exit fee when you leave the
country. Make sure you have the cash. The Yangon Central Post Office is located at 39, Bo Aung Kyaw
Street. All post offices in Myanmar are open 9:30 am. to 4:30 pm., Monday
through Friday. Mail Boxes at most hotels and postage stamps are available
at reception counters. Overseas calls can be made through operators at the hotels and Central
Telegraph Office. IDD telephones are also available, but only at some
Government Offices, companies, and hotels. Public telephones are available at the airports, railway stations and
department stores. It costs about $7/minute to call the US from Myanmar and vice versa,
and e-mail communication is uncertain. Since the takeover in 1988, civil wars, the drug trade, persecution of
democracy leaders (including elected leader and Nobel Peace Prize Winner,
Aung San Suu Kyi) and other internal tensions have made travel
to Myanmar difficult, but not impossible. Many travelers have also opted
not to visit the country to protest the current regimes oppressive
policies. There are still severe restrictions on where and when foreignersespecially
independent travelers--may travel, and there are still issues that responsible
travelers must consider. The good news is that Suu Kyi was freed in Spring
2002, so this is likely to be good news for political stability in the
years to come. Many Western aid agencies, pro-democracy movements and representatives
in Myanmar, including Aung San Suu Kyi, express the desire that travelers
not support the current regime. If you do plan to travel to Myanmar and
are concerned about supporting the current government, there are a few
responsible travel guidelines you can follow. Fore more information on Responsible Travel, see The GoNOMAD
MINI GUIDE TO For more information on ethical travel dilemmas, see also GoNOMAD
MINI GUIDE
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