Sailing Madagascar’s Coast

Ready to set sail in Madagascar.
Ready to set sail in Madagascar.

Cruising off the Coast of Madagascar

By Jean Miller Spoljaric

When considering cruising destinations, Africa doesn’t often fall into the most likely category of the world’s top places to set sail. But there are fantastic opportunities to enjoy sailing in as far-flung a place as Madagascar, the large island located off the eastern coast of Southern Africa.

Girls and guys on the boat.
Girls and guys relax on the catamaran.

In February 2013, I set sail with a charter outfit out of Madagascar for what turned out to be an epic journey that I’ll never forget.

I made the most of my vacation by visiting many of the surrounding islands and making friends along the way, not just with my group but with locals as well.

Nosy Komba

Nosy Komba, Nosy Tanikely; and Nosy Sakatia, are to name a few, these islands participate in scuba diving adventures in the jewel-like archipelago of Nosy Mitsio. Snorkeling or scuba diving with an astonishing rich undersea life will be like no other adventure in the world. The Sailing Collective does all the work for you, all you have to do it sit back and enjoy as much or as little as you choose.

You can choose, land or sea, or in my case, both. It’s easy to find your own way of exploring the natural wonders of this beautiful land far away from the tourist centers.

There are many local tour operators based in Nosy Be who organize trekking, mountain biking, diving, fishing, and day cruises in the Nosy Be region. English is spoken, however, it helps to speak French or better yet if you can find a Malagasy person that speaks French, English, and Malagasy you will have hit the jackpot.

One thing is for sure, a visit to this magical surreal destination will take you back in time, it will recharge your batteries, it will renew you and most certainly it will change the way you think about life, it will make you a better person, and upon returning to your home you will understand the importance of taking a step back in time and you will understand that less can indeed be more.

Money

Money: Madagascar changed its currency from the Malagasy Franc (FMG) to the Ariary (AR) in 2005. But despite having had a few years to get used to the new currency, many Malagasies still count in FMG (one Ariary is worth five FMG), so it’s essential that you clarify which currency a price is being quoted in, particularly in rural areas.

Inflation is rampant in Madagascar, and the denominations are struggling to keep up. the largest bank note currently available in Ariary is 10,000AR, but with a main course at a restaurant costing about 10,000- 15,000 AR, one would think they would print bigger denominations soon.

Dayyan Ross two of the owner/skippers of the Sailing Collective.
Dayyan and Ross, two of the owners/skippers of the Sailing Collective.

For travelers, it means that changing just 300 Euros will produced a wad of some 85 notes. It easy to be a Malagasy Millionaire! ATM’s are scattered throughout Madagascar, but ask your driver to find a ‘Human ATM’.

There are people that will exchange your US Dollars or Euros to Ariarys, on the street. I was suspect at first, as I didn’t want to get ripped off, but they are very professional and are more accessible than banks or ATM machines.

Electric: In Madagascar, they use European style two-prong 240V electricity, if you bring anything electric make sure your device can handle 220V before you plug it in with an adaptor.

To and From

I flew Air France from JFK in NYC to the Charles De Gaulle airport in Paris, France. There’s something to be said about free champagne on every flight.

From Paris I flew Air Austral, I landed in Saint-Denis Reunion, Reunion Island and then made my way to Nosy Be, Madagascar. Air Austral is welcoming, comfortable and reasonably priced.

Other Useful Information To learn more about Madagascar

That fabulous African sun.
That fabulous African sun.

Where to Stay

What’s your pleasure? Land, Sea, or both. I’ve got some great finds.

I was lucky enough to call the Anjiamarango Beach Resort home away from home for almost a full week. Philippe and Monique Gron were gracious hosts and they went above and beyond to make sure my stay was relaxed and comfortable.

My beachfront bungalow at the Anjiamarango was located steps away from the water.

The Anjiamarango is located in the bush, it was great to escape from the realities of the real world, they run a generator for a few hours in the morning and a few hours at night, just enough time to check your email, if you so choose. I found the wifi to be hit and miss, I chose to just unplug.

The freshwater swimming pool was incredibly relaxing and after a long day of exploring it was just what I needed. If you find yourself in Madagascar, I highly recommend the Anjiamarango.

Their website is in French, however, you can use google translate to learn more. Or you can contact them by email; They speak French, English and Malagasy. Philippe.gron@laposte.net

For more info about Sakatia Lodge or diving on Nosy Sakatia: An oasis with lots of ice and diving galore. Contact my friends, Jacques, Isabella and Jose’ at Sakatia Lodge to book your dream getaway today:

You can also find them on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/ScubaDivingMadagascar

If you want to stay in Hell-Ville, I highly recommend Les Bungalows D’ Ambonara in Nosy Be. It’s the perfect combination of Bungalow meets Luxury, I ran out of time so I didn’t get to stay here, but when and if I ever make it back to Madagascar it’s at the top of my list.

This is not the boat that was sailed on, it's a passing fisherman.
This is not the boat that was sailed on, it’s a passing fisherman.

The Boats

We chose Dream Yacht Charters because they offered ‘Bareboat’ charters. We crewed the boats ourselves.

Or contact my friend, Rudy Larcher, at Madavoile Yacht Charters: They offer Luxury Yachts at affordable prices. Email: rudy@madavoile.com

Note: Next door to both of these yacht clubs is “The Pizza Train” They have no website, nor telephone, just the best dang wood-fired pizza in all of Madagascar, made in the caboose of a train.

Insiders tip: Order it long before you are hungry, they are not built for speed, but you won’t be disappointed and the beer is cold.

Stuff To Do

For more information about Lokobe Reserve:

Madagascar Tours to be trusted–Voyagetrek

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