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Hiking the Alps Near Torino: Getting to the Top is Worth the Work By Max Hartshorne We motored by bus out of the city of Torino, heading for a mountain village deep into the Alps on a September afternoon. The small coach wound around the hairpin turns, and one of our mates kept putting his hands in front of his face, as he was afraid to look out the window. The bus strained as it made its way up the steep paved road, and pebbles flew off to the side down a vast face of rock. Our destination was a gigantic dam in the Gran Paradis National Park, with huge letters across its broad face of the cement that read Citti di Torino. As we climbed up and over the dam, we saw a brilliant aquamarine lake that was created when this dam was built.
An hour of hard hiking, using rocks as stairs and walking through soft forests and then, hiking above the tree line on broad flat rocks. "No one said it was going to be easy," I laughed, and indeed, it was one of those hikes that makes you feel great because it was tough. Many visitors to this city of about 900,000 enjoy taking to these country roads and finding their own hiking routes up into the Alps. There are also abundant parks both in the city and by the lovely Po River to enjoy. Torino is known as the capital of the Alps, and capital of the Piedmonte region, the fourth-largest city in Italy. It's a city filled with immigrants, and that becomes clear when you see the multi-lingual signs in Arabic, Romanian and other languages in little shops and
bodegas. The largest outsiders are from Romania, seconded by Morocco and Albania. The feeling that you're in a country other than Italy sometimes comes upon you as you walk a narrow street following a woman in a headscarf. Turin, as the city is known by people outside of Italy, is home to Juventus, the most successful football club in Italy, which gives this small city big time FIFA status, the do battle with other Premier league teams in the Derby of Torino, the oldest arena in the country. The city made it into the limelight in 2006 when they hosted the Winter Olympic games, they became the largest city to ever host the winter games. The events were held an hours drive away over winding mountain roads from the city in the Alps in the mountains to the west.
At the Torino Public market, we saw uniformed and plainclothes police menacing some of the vendors, who took off like scared cats as the men with truncheons rounded the corner. You get the sense that some of the people they are chasing are these immigrants or unlicensed peddlars avoiding their tax bills. Torino is a lively and elegant city. In the distance, the dormant hulk of a former Fiat factory looms. But beyond are the Olympic and Royal Mountains, glistening in white. The Po river winds its way through the city, and a big boulevard heads right to its banks. The city, once Italy's capital, has broad, tree-lined avenues and winding side streets, with elegant palaces and both old and new buildings that are striking. It seems more like a town than a city, friendlier and more gentle to a visitor. Climbing the Stairs to the Fort
It was difficult to imagine troops fully laden with armor and swords making these climbs, up unending staircases made of brick, winding far, far up into the clouds. We made it through about stage one of a seven castle arrangement, though many visitors go the entire distance of three kilometers almost all uphill. We met the owner, Mrs Marite Costa, and she served up a tray of delicious chocolately Bicerin in wine glasses, each with a foamy head and a thin coffee and chocolate flavor. It wasn't as milky as hot chocolate, it was dark and rich and unforgettable like very strong mocha.
This cafe, with its marble tables, crowded coziness and long history, is a must stop in Torino. They also offer a full line of their own homemade cremini (creamy pralines), chocolate bars, and other delicious treats right next door. Eataly: Foodie Heaven At Eataly, however it's not just about buying, it's more about learning and appreciating food in all its slow glory. The Slow Food Movement talks about its manifesto on their website, where they declare "we're in love. We are people in love with quality foods and beverages: their stories and traditions, the men and women who produce them, the places they come from and the children who grow up in those places. " The caverous, bustling store features a yards-long wooden bar in the center of one of the floors. Here patrons sip wine and cocktails with giant hams and other meats hanging above their heads...and everywhere the scents and views of the world's most wonderful foods. Parmesans and Romanos and pasta of indescribable variety...the rarest ones that you can't find, from all over Italy, are all here, in their own five floor-to-ceiling racks.
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