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Sardegna: A Prized Gem of an Italian Island The sunrise across the Costa Smeralda bathed the white houses in its famous red glow. Seen against the sea and sky, the village didn't look real. It was as if someone "photo-shopped" the turquoise and aquamarine of the water, the cerise and tangerine of the houses and the verdant charcoal of the vegetation among the rocks to create an achingly beautiful landscape. That natural beauty is the wonder of Sardegna, as locals call the island of Sardinia. It is a beauty seen in every face, in every region and on every shore throughout the island, a beauty there throughout the centuries of conquest and assimilation that is Sardinia's history. Theirs was a life tied primarily to the land, possibly with water figuring prominently in their religion. Deep in the interior mountains, below the amazing cliff-dwelling ruins of the Nuragic village of Tiscali, archeologists recently uncovered a series of nine purification stations leading to a sacred fountain. It had nine spigots, carved as animal heads that released a steady stream of water into the baptismal below. Here is where many of the bronze figurines were found, presumably left as tribute, and then buried beneath the avalanche that protected the site for centuries from the nomadic charcoal makers and sheepherders that camped above it. Further study is necessary before a final determination of the site's significance can be accurately presented, but the enigma of its existence and the rugged scenery surrounding it makes this an exciting adventure tourism destination.
A Horse Tradition Horses, in addition to donkeys, were traditional modes of transportation on the farms and in the rugged, mountainous interior of the island. They were necessary to the survival of Sardinia's agricultural way of life. In modern times the love of horses is imbued in the hearts of Sardinians even as the need for them has lessened. A tradition similar to that of our "Old West" sprang up, especially among the young. As our horses were used for herding cattle, in Sardinia they were used for sheep herding. The unique breed of hardy, fast workhorses that grew out of their early history is now bred and raced recreationally. Western wear, predominantly cowboy hats, is a prevalent and popular style. Existing trails provide opportunities for horseback riding and income for the many stables. Horses even figure prominently in some of Sardinia's largest religious festivals. Sardegna’s Religious Festivals In the village of Oristano an ancient display of horsemanship takes place during the Carnival before Lent. The Sartiglia is the most famous festival in Sardinia. It is an equestrian parade followed by races through the village. Acrobatic riders tear through the streets standing on horseback. Children parade on ponies. Riders compete in contests to be champion.
The highlight of the event is when stars are placed along the circuit with the idea of each rider trying to spear as many as possible with their lance, similar to Medieval knights in jousts. The more stars pierced, the better the harvest. It is an event filled with pageantry, tradition and danger as the costumed riders race their horses through the paved streets. Amusement rides and games of chance are popular, but this is really a major food festival. Many vendors grill eels, sparrows, suckling pigs, beef and horse meat, sausage and hot dogs over huge charcoal fires. Here, as everywhere throughout the island, aromatic myrtle branches cover the food platters.
Libeccio is from the SW, from Libya. Levante blows in from the East, and, finally, Grecale blows in from the Northeast, especially in Winter. These winds carve weirdly sensuous rock formations, such as the iconic Bear Rock and Mushroom Rock, and shape the granite and basalt cliffs throughout the island. They also help to shape the lean, wizened population, whose chiseled features quickly break into a smile as they pause to help strangers. The island is known as a bastion of longevity, according to Danish studies. Hundreds of proud centenarians roam this wild land. Nature and the Environment Sardinia is an ideal place for outdoor activities. Birding is a popular activity here. The island is a migratory stop for many species flying between Europe and Africa. The swamps and estuaries that historically complicated early invasions now are breeding grounds for flamingos. They also provide refuge to over 220 varieties of birds. Off-road adventures are readily available. Hiking, rock climbing, camping, horseback riding and biking are very popular. Kayaking and sailing opportunities abound, and the miles of sandy beaches and small secluded coves provide sunbathers, with or without clothes, more than enough space for walking, swimming and tanning. In fact, much of the island's interior is parkland, open to the public, and none of the beaches are private. Foods of Sardinia: Cook the little hogs Sardinia most shows its insular ways by retaining the traditional foods of its ancestors. The flavors of Sardinian meat and cheese are strongly influenced by the animal's diet - the aromatic herbs and shrubs that have filled their fields for centuries. In fact, driving through the countryside one cannot help but inhale the fragrances of thyme, rosemary, broom, oregano, arbutus, myrtle and juniper that the livestock eat.
The sizes and tastes of the local bread are varied and delicious, and usually specific to each village. Of the nearly 500 varieties, "pane carasau", or "carta da musica" as it is called in Italian, is the best known. It is a very thin, crispy bread that breaks easily. It keeps very well, especially in the arid climate. For this reason, it was the traditional bread of the shepherds who were away tending the flocks for long periods. It can also be dipped in warm liquid to soften, then layered with sauce, tomato and cheese, in the manner of lasagna, and finished with a poached egg to create a more complex dish called "pane frattau".
From an artistic point of view, decorative bread, called coccoi, is made for ornamentation as well as food to commemorate weddings and special occasions. It can be an intricate and long lasting art form. The Easter bread can be called SA PIPPIA CUN S'OU (the little girl with the egg) when is made for children and has the shape of a doll with the egg on her stomach or COCCOIEDDU CUN OU or SA CULUMBA (the dove), with different shapes, for everyone. After all this I think it wiser to speak of a COCCOI bread shaped differently according to the occasion (weddings, Easter, New Year's Eve etc.)"
Often with sausages ready and waiting to be cooked next to them. Nothing
can compare to the taste of pork roasted over aromatic woods, bathed in the
smoke of myrtle branches smoldering on the hot coals. This is a typical The wine was a bargain at 1.5 euros (sold in a plastic 20 oz. coke bottle, vintage 10 AM that day!) but not nearly as good as their Edmond Bernard Cabernet Sauvignon (2007 France) for 8 euros per bottle. With so many good cheap Sardinian wines available it was a surprise to find a French one, especially at a small local festival. The Sardinian grapes of cannonau, malvasia, moscato, vermentino, and vernaccia can all be used, so the taste varies widely. Grappa is a brandy, high in alcohol, and enjoyed as an after dinner "digestive" drink. Mirto, a potent red or white liquor made from the berries of the Myrtle plant, is also served this way. It is perhaps the best known of Sardinia drinks.
ADVENTURE GUIDE
Read more GoNOMAD stories by Richard Frisbie: Macau: The Birthplace of Asian Fusion Cuisine Brazil's Emerald Coast: The State of Rio de Janeiro Tasting French Champagne: A Transcendent Experience Auvergne, France: Where Gabrielle Chanel Became 'Coco' France 1918-2008: Remembering the American Offensive in World War I
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